Ejwill

Thanks Y’all I appreciate it, one question though the bearing that fits in the cover. Does it fit flush with the cover when pressed into the cover or is it pressed deeper into the cover. When I took the cover off for the first time the bearing was stuck on the shaft of the centrifugal clutch and I had to pull it off with a puller. I thought maybe it was the bearing not seating properly that might be keeping the cover from going on as it should. I still didn’t see anywhere the cover was hitting that would have caused it not to have gone on easily. That bearing being stuck on that shaft was why it was so hard to come off the first time. I thought maybe it not being pressed deep enough into the cover might have been the reason the cover was binding. I don’t have a press so had to put it in by hand. It stopped flush with the cover, didn’t know it it was supposed to go deeper into the recessed area or not. I’ll send a picture of the break and where the bearing is later this morning it’s 0400 right now, so it will be a little later before I get to it .Thanks again so much for the help.

Well, you know what that means. I did something really stupid, that I was told not to do. But I couldn’t resist, I was so close with-in 1/8 of an inch on the cover and so I tried to pull it up with the bolts. It was so close I thought maybe I’d get by with it but noooo the cover cracked almost in half. I’m sorry for not listening but I got in a hurry and screwed up. It was binding on something and I couldn’t find what it was . No scratches rubs nothing. I went ahead and got another one on the way I couldn’t go this far and not give it another try. Y’all have been too good to me to just quit. Mech you told me once if it came off ok it should go back ok. The first time I took it off I had to use a block of wood and hit the cover to get it off. I should have mentioned it but didn’t think it was important at the time. I have looked several times and can’t find where it binding. And by the way do y’all know a trick to keep the ball retainer and spring to stay in place while you are assembling the front cover on the motor. If you bump anything it falls off. I will try not to do anything stupid like that again, but I can’t promise it won’t happen that’s just me. Thanks for everything, y’all have been great. It’s really good to be able to ask someone about things like this, I don’t have anyone any more since my Dad died in January of 2011. He used to could fix anything, then in his late fifties / early 60s he got dementia and then Alzheimer’s after that he could barely screw in a light bulb. So I appreciate y’all helping me through this. Thanks so much.

I put it in neutral a while ago and the tires spun forward freely, if that’s what you mean. I could shift up to fifth and back to neutral, I still had to roll the tires to get the gears to shift all the way. But it would go all the way up and back down using the manual shifter.

Ok, the reason the nut looks like it’s not far up on the shaft threads is because the original nut was staked into the threads. I had to grind down some of the threads to get to good threads. I got it to the point I could thread it on by hand, then with a ratchet. There are no threads in front of the nut because I had to remove a lot of them to get the nut to thread on at the first of the shaft. So it’s as good as it will get now on that shaft. The tires turned with a lot of resistance forward and turned more easy backward. Should I continue on or is there something else I need to do. Thanks.

I put it in fifth gear and turned the wheels toward the change clutch rotated clockwise, I also turned the wheels backward and the change clutch turned counterclockwise. So the wheels turn backward also. I’m not sure about the change clutch. It doesn’t plate assembly doesn’t look like it’s all the way back I’ll try a photo and see if you can see what I’m

Ok, I checked the plates and all were loose. I decided to loosen all the bolts on the lift plate , taking all the pressure off the springs. I then tightened the bolts back a very little at a time. It took forever it seemed but I got each bolt torqued to correct torque. Now the plates, all of them, are tight and the inner shaft turns with the centrifugal clutch turning. I think that’s what you wanted. The shaft turning when the centrifugal clutch housing turned, the shaft turns now.

I’ll give it a try, Doc. didn’t do much to help pretty much said to keep on with physical therapy and the pain injections. Price is up there without insurance, we have Medicare and a supplemental insurance through wife’s retirement. So meet deductibles and it’s not too bad. Unless it’s something terrible happens. I’m going to check and see if each one is loose or all . I’ll start on it tomorrow my middle grandson has a football game tonight (American football). So have to ride one hour to see that probably in the rain. Hope to figure it out tomorrow. Thanks.

I checked the change clutch this morning before I left for the Dr. The plates are all very loose, I can move the all around wit my finger. They are really sloppy. Maybe this will help some, had to leave before really checking it out . I’m sitting in Dr. Exam room now waiting on him.

I’ll give it a shot . I was thinking if the threads are messed up on the change clutch shaft could it not being tightened up enough for the splines not to mesh up cause the shaft not to turn. I don’t have a whole nut on the shaft I realized it when watching to see if the shaft was turning. But looks like it would have to be up on the shaft spline to be that far on that the cover went on. Just grasping at straws. I’ll check what you said and see what I can find. Thanks. Might be a while before I can check it out. I’ll get to it as soon as I can.

Ok, change to my reply #170, I turned the centrifugal clutch and the change clutch outer basket turned but the shaft did not turn, the outer portion turned clockwise, but the shaft with the lock nut on it did not turn. Nor did the tires. Hope this isn’t totally confusing if so I’ll try again. Thanks again and again and again etc. So give me the bad news I’m used to it by now.

Glad you are here, join the crowd I had never done any mechanics on quads before . And I’m learning a lot now if I can get the transmission going so it’ll move it’ll be great, there’s some really good people on this site that are very knowledgeable and patient. I think you’ll like it here, stick around and try to pick up some of the knowledge that on here. Good luck with your quad.

Ok, I got the cover off and turned the centrifugal clutch counter clockwise and the change clutch turned clockwise. It was in gear at this time and the wheels did not turn as they were supposed to. I can move them forward by hand but not with the centrifugal clutch. Sorry I know you thought it may be something simple, but that’s not how it goes with me. Thanks for the help, if you know something else I can try I’ll do it.

So back the nut on the adjustment shaft out and screw the shaft in until it touches then back off 1/4 turn on the shaft then hold the shaft there and tighten the nut. I’ll try that and see what happens. Well, I did the adjustment like you said or as I understood. And the motor still will not turn the wheels. I shift up to first and can’t really turn the back tires forward by hand it’s real tight. They also won’t turn with the motor. I guess I’ll take the cover off like you said but not remove the lock nuts and clutches at this time. Will let you know when I get it off. Thursday will be spent at neuro surgeon’s. It’s about an hour and fifteen minutes from here. Hope to avoid surgery but got to have some relief. But I’ll get what I can done tomorrow morning by eleven or eleven thirty it’s about too hot to stay out there. I bought a battery powered ratchet which speeds things up a lot. Thanks again.

Ok, adjusted the clutch still nothing with the motor cranked the tires will still not turn under it’s own power. I know it’s going in gear I can feel it when it shifts and there’s a difference in the resistance when turning the tires by hand. I can shift up to fifth the higher the gear the easier the wheel turns by hand. But the motor will not turn the wheels under it’s own power. Thanks for giving me the correct adjustment for the clutch. Just don’t know. What turns the transmission inside the motor housing. When the motor cranks doesn’t the clutches turn, which turns the gears inside the housing - to the shaft to the differential. If so something has to be wrong with the clutch doesn’t it. I’m just guessing I have never worked on a motor before. Dropped a complete motor in a truck once but that wasn’t as involved as this. Thanks for the help.

I have not adjusted it, I’ll do that I don’t know if I read it or if one of you told me. I believe you turn the stud clockwise until resistance then back off a quarter turn. Not sure if that’s correct or not.

I have got things confused again. When I got everything together I cranked the machine and shifted into first and the motor did not turn the tires. I did not move. I jacked it back up and using the manual shifter and the electric shifter was able to turn the tires by hand. I could shift from neutral to first with the electric shifter alone as well as the manual shifter alone and back to neutral with each. I could shift to other gears with electric shifter by using the manual shifter to slightly back the shifter up until I felt a light click, then press the up shift button and it would go another gear. The tires turned by hand in each gear getting easier as I went up in the gears to fifth gear I could come down in the gears using the electric shifter doing the same. Could tell the gears were changing because the resistance was changing. For some reason it will not go under it’s own power I know it shifts into 1st because I can feel when using both electric and manual shifters. For some reason it just doesn’t move under its own power. Could it be in the starter clutch( centrifugal clutch) isn’t it the first one that picks up the motion from motor to wheels. I’m just guessing I don’t have a clue. Thanks Y’all for replying.

Ok, I’ll give it a try. Wish I could get it straightened out soon I go to a neuro surgeon on the tenth. So depending on what happens with him, Will determine if I can continue working on this thing for a while. If I have surgery maybe I can get one off my grandsons to do the work if I tell him what to do. That will probably never happen, they are too busy with school and sports. But there’s a change it may work out with them if there’s money involved. Thanks again.

I have the washers in right places, I have the gears on as shown in photo. The tires will turn when jacked up . They have resistance when in what is first gear is heavy as I shift up in gears it gets easier to rotate the tires. In fifth gear it turns fairly easily. The lower fears are pretty hard to turn I think this should be the way it should be. I think I confused you about the tires . I can turn them when it’s jacked up. But when I crank it up and put it in first the tires will not move under it’s own power, other words if it was on the ground it would not move. Sorry about the confusion,I didn’t explain it correctly. The gear cover went on easily. There was no binding there. I’ll check the voltage. I’ll check the voltage today. Ther should be 12 to 13 volts goin into the plug for the motor, right? If I unplug the connector for the motor and check the voltage across the two prongs I should get the voltage going to the motor? Electrical is way out of my league I’ll try but can’t promise you I know what I’m doing. Again the tires will rotate with lessening resistance as I shift up in the gears. The tire will not turn under it’s own power.

I think the gears are in place. The manual is confusing it shows the center gear turned upside down from the way I had to put it the big gear will not fit down inside the recessed area it has to go the opposite way. And the sector gear has to go under the center gear instead of on top as shown in the photo. This is a clymer manual page 181 photo 2A. Maybe this is the problem, but I can’t see how the center gear will fit the other way, and the shaft of the gear fit in the hole. I’ll take it apart again and make positive sure it will only fit one way. This could be a problem, I’ll see if I can straighten it out. I got the gears in as the manual shows, had it that way to start with. Still no tire rotation when I shift it in gear with the manual shifter. Don’t know, but what’s new about. Haven’t known much since we started but with y’all’s help I’ve picked up a lot I didn’t know, so thanks very much for the help. My middle grandson doesn’t want to go to college, so I told him to get a trade like welding, he could make good money, it’s just no easy work. I welded at a nuclear plant. It’s hot work. One area we had to wear ice vest to work in the room. And when you are dressed out and wearing a mask and welding hood , three pair of gloves it’s not very comfortable way to work. I feel like it's been that hot here working on this machine. Anyway I don’t know where to go next I’ll start with the trouble shooting pages I guess. Thanks again.

Yeah, it’s two bolts on the motor. I replaced the motor it’s new, I checked it with the battery before putting it in. And it worked fine. I’ll check the reduction gears, because they are hard to get installed with the cover on could be one of the has slipped out of place. I guess that could have happened not sure. I replaced the motor because the fiber board that has two small screws holding it in the bottom of the motor mount was broken at each screw. Can’t rebuild it so I just replaced the whole thing. It shouldn’t take too long to check the gears. I’ve been reading the manual and it calls for grease on the gears, I didn’t have any so I put oil on them, the grease might be what makes the difference. When I check the installation I’ll put the grease on the gears. Hopefully that might be an easy fix. Thanks again.

Reply to my own post. I worked with the shifting again this morning. I don’t know if I can even explain what it’s doing. As I said I put the bypass harness on it, and it will shift from neutral to first and back to neutral. If I use the manual shifter along with it I can shift up to fifth. I have to press the up button then take the manual shifter and back it up a little, I can feel a slight click. Then press the up button and it goes into the next gear I can do this all the way to what I think is fifth gear, then do it the same way back down to neutral. So far the tires will not move, it’s still jacked up so I can turn the tires if need be to make it shift to the next gear. The buttons work with help from the manual shifter, slightly backing the gear up just a little then it will go to next gear up or down again the tires still do not turn when it feels as though it is in gear.

I can’t see a thing on that dash it’s old weathered and impossible to see anything on. I tried cleaning it but it’s in too bad of shape. Didn’t what to put that much into it if the atv wasn’t going to work. I’ll try to do it again tomorrow, they sell new covers but I don’t see a way to remove the old one.

Oh well, guess you know what that means. I got everything on and it cranked right up, buuut it just sat there I shifted out of neutral to first and nothing. I even jacked it back up, cranked it up shifted to what I’m sure would be first and the tires did not move. I couldn’t shift in anything but first to neutral and back to first no other gears. I’m about ready to tap out. I know y’all are. I had ordered a harness that is supposed to bypass all the systems with the es system. When it didn’t work I put it on and it would shift from neutral to first with the buttons on the controls, but no further than first and back to neutral.

Well , I got it back together again. Everything is working so far still need to do a few things. Oil hoses, shift motor and gears, angle sensor,put gas tank back on, connect gas hose and hope it still cranks. It should haven’t changed anything with that. I took the front cover off to accesse everything easier. Will try to see if it works tomorrow. Got to put the left handle bar controller on bought a new one. Man I hope it works. Will let y’all know what happens. Thaknks for y’all’s help no matter what happens.

Ok, I loosened the change clutch lock nut and as you thought the tires would turn backward but really hard forward, you explained this earlier. I have taken the change clutch apart and checked the manual it says there’s one friction plate that has a wider diameter. It shows the difference between them as a wider friction pad area. The only different one I have had a smaller pad area and a larger opening that goes around the clutch center. So I’m a little confused about the difference in them. ‘A’ is the regular one, five of them. ‘B’ is the narrow one the only different one. But as you can see the pad area on B is smaller not larger as the manual shows. I guess I’m trying to see if ‘B’ is the one that goes on last even though it doesn’t look like the one in the manual. ‘C’ is showing the width difference in it and the other five. The second photo is from the clunker manual showing a wider pad area that it says should go on last . I don’t have one that is wider than the others just one that has a smaller pad area. I’m guessing the smaller with one in the photo of what I have goes on first, but I don’t have a wider on that would go on last. I went ahead and assembled the change clutch with the narrow pad one on first, if it’s wrong I’ll change it. Will put it on and not torque it but about 70 ft/lbs, as well as the centrifugal clutch. I’ll check to see if the wheels turn this time. I can always take it apart again.