LCP92
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Everything posted by LCP92
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Does it play nice with the whole wet clutch situation?
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In my original post, I was really trying to see if there was a synthetic just as good as Rotella T6 for less money. It looks like T6 is the way to go for the best engine protection.
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I'm putting it in Yamaha Rhino's, Grizzlys, Bruins, a Suzuki DR 650, and a Honda Foreman.
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Thanks for the info. I'll check that out.
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Which Walmart synthetic do you use in the ATV's? I didn't know they would work with a wet clutch.
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Actually all Rotella T oils are rated for wet clutch use. Rotella T4 is a conventional oil, T5 is a blend, and T6 is full synthetic. I was just wondering if anyone has found an easier to find and better value oil than the T6. I can find T6 at Walmart or any parts store and it's pretty inexpensive.
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Guys, I've got a 1999 Honda Foreman 450S. It runs great, but smokes out the exhaust after startup until it warms up. I'm thinking the valve seals are leaking. I was wondering if there is a way to replace them without removing the head or if there's an oil additive that will recondition the rubber seals. Any advice?
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I've always used the traditional U-shaped holders on the front rack. As long as they are strong and securely hold your rifle to the bike without rattling around, you should have no problem with a decent quality scope holding zero. It also allows for quick access if your hunting requires it.
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I think you have to look at your location. In Texas, non-ethanol can be anywhere from 87 to 94 octane. Gasoline that is not labeled non-ethanol will contain ethanol regardless of it's octane rating. The non-ethanol fuel is close to $1 more per gallon. If regular high octane gas was ethanol free, I'd buy it and save some money.
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I've been using Rotella T6 in my 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 350 with no problems, but was wondering what you guys think. Do you fellas like the T6 or is there another easy to find oil that's better?
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You can't beat an old Honda 250, but just about any of the older Japanese air cooled and carbureted machines are tough and simple to repair yourself.
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Another vote for rebuilding the OEM Mikuni. Use a Japanese JIS screwdriver instead of a #2 Phillips and you'll have a lot better chance of not stripping out the screw head. The bowl screws should be metric M4 screws. You can get the JIS screwdrivers and M4 screws on the jungle website. Sometimes I'll buy a Niche carb for the parts (other than the jets) if I need them.
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Here in Texas, Hondas seem to last the longest and hold their value the best. I wonder if the Polaris's are made more for colder weather...
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I've always had good results with just 87 octane non-ethanol gas. I've heard the high octane fuel contains no ethanol, but I don't think that's the case here in Texas.
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I prefer the older carbureted and oil cooled machines for simplicity and like Hondas the best with Yamaha being a close second. My personal machine is a 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 350 and it's about perfect for my exploration needs.
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All of them that I've done have had decent brushes without too much wear remaining. I simply disassembled the starter, cleaned everything with CRC electronic circuit cleaning spray, clean up the copper contacts on the rotor where the brushes rub with fine sand paper, spray some dielectric grease on the brushes and make sure they move freely against the springs, put some silicone grease in the bearing ends and reassemble. Pay attention to the location of any washers that come out. They usually work great after a good cleaning and lubing.
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I use a cheap plastic welder purchased on the jungle website. I usually use the wavy looking staples and melt them in on the bottom side. Be careful not to sink them too deep where they are noticeable on top. They make a good strong repair.
