GEARHEAD01

If you are running to lean and putting around on the trails your quad is poss getting the fuel to hot in the carb. My buddies does that. He richened up the air fuel mixture and was fixed.

I agree with Oxidized Black. The only way the secondary clutch will turn on a polaris is if the belt it grabbing. If you put a new belt on and it still does it then the primary clutch friction surfaces are possibly worn to much causing the belt to run to low in the assembly thus causing it to grab. The othe poss is that the clutch could use a re-alignment. Did you replace the clutch yourself recently?

Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

It probably wouldn't hurt to pull the carb and completely clean it out as when it comes to atv's they tend to get dirt in the fuel delivery system.

If you put a new handlebar master cylinder and handle on and you have fluid coming out the bleeder with no bubbles then you have a bad brake caliper. If it is the front one relace it in pairs. It has been my experience that when one siezes then the other ones aren't far be hind. A trick you can try is to remove the caliper and use a c clamp to try and squeeze the piston into the caliper a bit. it is most likely stuck to the rubber oring. If this works then replace the caliper as when it frees up it usually starts to leak.

Hope this helps

Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

it is a little bit of common sense and easy knowledge if you are a mechanic. if you have 2 filters in line it restricts the flow twice as much. that is how a filter works is through partial restiction with the filter element. so what kind of shop do you have? I hope it is not backyard! By the way I am a journyman automotive and motorcylce mechanic and am just finishing up for my marine mechanics. They teach you not to double filter unless you up your fuel pressure!

all you are feeling is the gear backlash which is more noticable when the tires are on than off.

i used to own a 2000 quad master 500. did u put an aftermarket carb on or a direct oem replacement. i had the same problems and what it ended up being was the aftermarket carbs fuel system was not factory configured properly. so i put on the oem carb and set the fuel properly. i would have to say that if you put on the oem carb then you do not have the carb set properly. The quadmaster 500 is the most sensitive carb i have ever played with. And as for the inline filter? do not put one on. it does adversely affect the operation of the quadmaster as i tried that too. the only other thing would be that you have an intake air leak.

your tire is 22 inches tall wil a 12 inch rim so your 11 inch factory ex rims wont fit.

yup. my family went through 4 sets of mudlites in one year between to quads. i am on year # 3 with my bearclaws and still have rigid rubber left and are not showing any signs of weather damage and have never been punctured. I forgot to mention that i ride in some of the nastiest crap around! when we ride there is usually something broken and a quad getting towed out. the last 2 times were mine! That was shitty.

mud lite tires in my experience do not like anything really sharp as in jagged rock n such. we have tried several tires and found that the best bang for your buck is bear claws as a bias tire is a lot more durable than the most all terrain tires. as for running them on all four corners you will be happy you did as it gives you better grip on the side hills and in slippery or muddy conditions.

nope my computer automatically puts me to the last post. i appologize .

2000 polaris 500 H/O 4x4. before that was dirt bikes and trikes.

ypu sounds like a bearing failure in the rear diff to me too.

That is absolutely correct. once in a while accidentally will not do any immediate damage but it will over time.

i agree with opewhitaker. by doing what was stated above will also do a proper chain slack adjustment for the top and bottom. i would put the link back in and try this first.

if my memory serves me correctly then yes that p0laris 300 should be a swing arm set up. i agree with cheriah back off the throttle and check for proper alignment. also. you should have approx 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch chain slack with a swing arm to allow for the travel.

it is time consuming but not to dificult. there should be a side cover on it. you should have a waterpump seal in the front and there should be an oil seal behind it. my reccomendation is to get the actual polaris manual. my quad is newer so it may be different.

if you go to your polaris dealership they can download the actual manual from polaris for free. they offer it on the website also but i could never get it to work.

all you have to do is check for toe out or in. you can do that by measuring the between the front rims on the front of the quad and then measuring between the front rims again on an eqaul point as the first measurement on the rear side of the front rims. split the difference for zero to and adjust the tie rods until the measurements are equal. Before you do that i would check for a twisted fram or a bent a arm. the reason you don't notice it while off roading is because there is enough tire slip. when it hits hard pack it gets better traction. if you haven't replaced the tierods i wuld be inclined to look for bent parts.

Your friendly neighbourhood Mechanic

i am a hunting freak. if it has a purchaseable tag i hunt it. I have a 300 parker hale mag that kicks like a mule. cracked the stock first shot. a ruger 270. a spanish side by side double barrel shot gun and a single shot. both 20 guage. a 303 british. 38-55. 1 22 long rifle and a 22 mag. i also have a 1934 38 police special that was a police issued hand gun to the british canadian mounted police. I run bushnell elite scopes on all of my guns.

I run e85 in both of my machines. It is not an octane booster. in lamest terms it is like putting grain alcahol in your fuel. if you do not run lubricative additives with it it will dry out your seals and gaskets and cause leaks. the fuel burns hotter so you will have to put a richer jet in or a cooler plug. I am lucky that both my quads r EFI.

it has been my experience that most manuals that you download are designed for more than 1 model of machine. I recommend spending the money and getting one from the dealer.

i am 90% sure that your carb needs cleaned and most likely needs a rebuild.. i would start there.

if it is still leaking then i would pull the input shaft again and check the seal surface closely. a slight groove or a scratch or a ding will cause a leak as well.

with out a manual i can not tell you. as far as i am concerned if it ain't broke don't fix it. my best guess though would be to pull the bearing out and the seal would be behind there.