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HelpMyQuad

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About HelpMyQuad

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  • Birthday 07/10/1971
  1. HelpMyQuad

    HelpMyQuad

  2. Sorry, wrong terminology (shows my ignorance). The spark is good. I don't have a battery in it yet, so Im not sure if it will hold a charge. My post immediately before this one explains why I was concerned about the stator, but based on your response it sounds like my concerns might not be founded. The front brakes are hydraulic, but I haven't even looked to see if they are drum or disc. Im betting drum. Ive never worked on hydraulic brakes of any kind before, so this will be a learning experience. Is there any point in working on them? I had an old Yamaha with cable brakes, and the front weren't worth fixing because they never lasted for long.
  3. This post is just an FYI. Im fixing up the subject quad. Problems and solutions found so far: 1) The ignition switch would not complete the circuit. Fortunately, you can take this ignition switch apart. I cleaned the corrosion off the contacts and lubricated it with WD40. It works well now. 2) The lights did not work. I took the switch apart and found a broken wire where it solders onto the switch. I also cleaned the switch with WD40. The lights now work. 3) Fuel tank was full of rust. I had cleaned it up a year or two ago, but it was rusted so bad I could hardly get the cap off. I bought a plastic after market tank from Clarke. They are bit expensive, but it fits well and seems to work. 4) Cleaned out carb to rid it of rust. The quad fired right up after 2 or 3 seconds of cranking. Remaining work may include new muffler and piping. Im wondering if I have problems with the alternator too. The front brakes also need work. Beyond that, I think everything is working OK.
  4. Should this quad run without a battery once you get it started? I don't have a battery, but I boosted it to start it. As soon as I disconnect the cables, it dies. I thought these engines would run without a battery so I am wondering what other problems I have? Thank you, Chris
  5. I read somewhere that old starters are easy to repair....so I took it apart. I found a short to ground in one of the wires that connects to the brushes. I fixed that. I also found a brush that was "stuck" and not in spring loaded contact with the rotating thing (armature???). I fixed that too. This last problem likely explains why the starter always turned over so slow (because it turns over fast now). I thought it was just a weak battery. Live and learn! I changed the spark plug. There was good spark. So I installed, and it fired up in a couple seconds of cranking. So then I removed the fuel tank. Some prior holes had been fixed by brazing. I have 4 neighbors that are welders by trade. I called 2 of them up (the ones I know) and I asked them if they would braze the tank. Both gave me the same response - they hadn't brazed since school, and they were reluctant to do my tank. One told me about JB Waterweld. So I decided to give it a try. I haven't reinstalled yet, but I suspect it sealed the leak. I've fixed leaking tanks in an old Oldsmobile with saran wrap and glue that cures in fuel - so I expect the JB Waterweld will work - it is advertised for this application. The aluminum piece with the valve on the bottom of the tank was showing corrosion. I wonder if it is galvanic corrosion? Anyways, it is difficult to get the O-ring to sit proper because the aluminum has wasted away in places under and around the O-ring. I threw out the "spacer" piece which was corroded the worst. As far as I can tell, you can still operate the valve fine without this spacer piece and the valve bolted directly to the tank. Fortunately I had a couple shorter bolts on my work bench that worked perfectly. I'm also planning to only use the reserve setting and I've cut the tube off so it sucks right from the bottom of the tank. I suspect water sits in the bottom of the tank and corrodes - I would rather have the engine sucking this junk out so it doesn't accumulate and perhaps I can slow the corrosion in the gas tank. I haven't put it togther yet, but I expect it will work fine. I will post back if I have problems. When you replace the starter, you need to take off the cover on the opposite side that houses the gear on the starter, the chain, etc. This is done so you can engage the splined started shaft into the gear. There was a bit of oil in this side (just enough to drip on the floor). Do I need to add some oil to this compartment? I suspect it is engine oil that must feed into there and drain out when stopped, but I'm not sure. I'm thinking I don't have to worry about adding oil to this side, but I thought I would ask.
  6. Is there anything that could fail in the electrical system that would take out the starter and the spark? It looks like the cheapest place for parts is E-Bay. A starter is $42! I was getting worried that it might not be worth fixing, but I think there is hope!
  7. Is there any way to jump the starter wrong? I assume the positive lead goes to the nut on the starter, and the ground goes to bare metal on the quad. I know it was making contact, because there were some sparks.
  8. Had it running this winter, but tried to get it going this spring with no luck. First problem is the starter won't turn over even when boosted. I've cleaned the terminals. That didn't work. I just get a "clicking" near the battery box, but it won't even attempt to turn over. I connected the booster cables directly to the starter, and it still won't turn over. Does this almost certainly mean I need a new starter? Any idea what these cost? Battery was never much good, so I guess I need a battery too. I tried pulling the quad to start it last night. It didn't fire once. I suspected fuel problems, but there is fuel to carb. The fuel is "rusty". Anyone know how to fix a rusty tank? I pulled the plug. It is wet. I assume this means it isn't firing. I tried to push the quad and check for spark. I didn't see any - but it's kind of hard to push and watch. Never had problems starting the quad before, so I'm inclined to think there isn't spark. Next step is to get a new plug (I think). Anyone with any thoughts or ideas? Is there any way that the starter "getting fried" could be related to a possible ignition failure? Thank you

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