ezlife

well after replacing everything you could possibly think of. Checking valves down to stator I finally gave up and just unplugged the air pressure sensor. without the vacuum running the idle is a little low but only dies once warmed up. This atv has a filter and pipe so Im going to add a power commander to fix the lean issue once running, however after much research the power commander does not have a fuel additive during starting. What I found is that the problem is a lean issue. All the atvs have it, but it seems some of them get so bad that it does not receive enough fuel to start.

Well after replacing the fuel pump, and pressure valve to the tank there is no change. Im going to pull the sensor tomorrow and clean it. ohm it out and take one more shot at it. If its not the temp sensor the last suspect would be the ecu. Although I just find it hard to believe since the atv had the problem with the old ecu. But there were two ecu models put out in 06. Although Im pretty sure the numbers just had to do with the recall.

So after messing around with the atv I found that if I turned the igntion forward another click so the headlights would come on it would stop stumbling. Took it out for a test drive and it started the problem again. Changed the ignition which did not help. Checked charging found that its charging at 17 volts. Looks like regulator rectifier. I"ll let you know as soon as I swap it out.

Same problem here. I believe its electrical though. If I hold the starter button down and rev the bike it revs up fine. Sometimes it will start and rev fine for a few minutes and other times it will rev once and then act like its a limiter. I seen you posted to disconnect the rev wire. Where about is this located? I didnt see any safety switches to trace back. Thanks

This project had got put on the back burner. I asked another mechanic I know to take a look at it and he said fuel pressure is down. I stuck the line in a 12 ounce water bottle and it took about 3 seconds till 4 ounces of the bottle. Also once your done trying to start the atv you if you disconnect the fuel line there is no pressure. Im going to replace the fuel pump, but I still intend to pull the sensor because it seems you all are right. Thats the only item that can really affect the air fuel ratio without setting off the f.i. light. I will post the final find.

Yeah I used to own a small shop, now I do trouble shooting and engine work for a couple of local shops. So you can imagine what I looks like now working on this thing on and off for 3 weeks. I will pull the sensor tomorrow. I already told them I need the right ecu, since the customer bought his own he needs to come up with a little 500 dollars to make that happen, and I have a feeling hes going to pay and pick up. I would really like to figure this out though, its one of the tougher problems I have ever had, minus electrical problems of course, lol.

I didn"t dip and ohm out the tempature, but I do know that when I first got it it had a high idle problem, like 3000 rpms and within a few minutes the temp light came on ( same as fi ). I will pull it and clean it to be sure its reading correctly though. Thank you for the reply, anything you can think of Ill try. I have just flat run out of ideas.

I have been working on this atv for a few weeks. It had several issues and I"m down to the last one and its kicking my butt. New ecu ( customer got it and the dealer says its an early 06 model ecu and I should have a later). But the atv had this problem with the old ecu as well. I replaced the ecu, harness, new fuel pump, used harness in very good shape. Replaced throttle body with all sensors and injector at once. Checked valves, and timing. No FI codes, tps is adjusted. New spark plug ( spark is great ) I pulled the throttle body off and held it in my hand while turning the engine over and the injector wet my hand with fuel within a few cranks. The problem is the atv does not want to start, if you pour a little fuel down the throttle body it starts up and runs. It will usually start for the rest of the day, but it seems to run lean. The atv does have a K & N filter and exhaust on it. I called power commander and checked several other piggy back systems, but none of them add fuel at start up. I know the ecu being the wrong one could be causing this problem, but I find it hard to believe since the atv does run good once you get it started. The original problem was a bad harness ground causing the ecu to burn out, plus it had been sank so when I switched it over I cleaned every relay and plug on it. I have been through the manual and checked everything that would make the atv run in limp mode and it all checks out. This was just a precaution, as once its started it does not go to limp mode. I keep the battery charged and also give a 40 amp boost when cranking on it. What am I over looking?

Rings and new valve stem seals are actually a cheap and easy fix. With a C- Clamp, a cut up old deep well socket and some patience you can do the whole your job yourself. I recomend ordering oem gaskets. I have did quite a few top ends and find oem holds up best. Now if you need a cylinder bored for a new piston you are about to spend some money.

I have owned a powersports shop for 4 years and have over time I have become the shop that gets the bikes with problems other shops have gave up on. Recently I came into this 98 grizzly. It had no spark. I had a list of changed parts from the previous shop. Aparently new stator meant soldering a new pickup coil. We every test by the book with the starting and charging system and find the motor control unit is bad as well. I put the new stator in, no spark, I unplug the motor control unit and I have spark. I return the atv. I get a call a week later that the engine has slowly lost spark again. Me and the mechanic argue that because we took the motor control unit out of the picture we lost spark again. We replace the motor control unit, still no spark. We ohm out the pick-up coil it comes in 100 ohms short. We ohm the source coil and it comes in 100 ohms over. Ricks stator tells me I need a booklet of paperwork and them to test the product before a return would be issued. So I bought another stator. Still no spark. The pick up coil and the source coil ohm out the same on the new stator. We have ohmed out every switch relay and wire. My grounds are hooked through the harness and show no signs of damage. When I test for voltage at the main coil, The most recieved is .2 volts, this is at the cdi to coil power output. but often that quickly fades into mv. Took the stator out and inspected. No visual signs of damage. Tried adjust the pickup coil a hair closer to the fly wheel. Fly wheel pickup tab is in good shape. The diode tests fine. The rectifier tests fine. I have unplugged unesary parts and bipassed every safety switch. The battery is fully charged. Is it possible that this is another bad stator assembly right out of the box from Ricks Stator? I have only every had 1 other bad stator from them.