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About SSreda4

  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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  1. SSreda4


  2. As well as this plug on the top corner (note the o'ring seal on this one too): Doesnt that say t-40? New cover prepped and ready to go back on: You'll note that on your cardboard some bolt holes are missing...that because some hold both covers and go through both gaskets. I have lined the gaskets up in this picture so you can see where they overlap: Here's my artwork: So for the two main gaskets, i do a prep with a gasket prep disc on a pnuematic grinder, then a super thin layer of Ultra Black RTV, then the gasket, then another layer of RTV. Works everytime. Ready for assembly. Reinstall everything and this is how she should look: Dont forget to seal your kickstart cover. Thoughts, comments, suggestions? As an FYI, that was a Moose Racing U joint that broke (part# 1205-0201). Pure junk.
  3. Undo the rest of the perimeter bolts and this is what she looks like opened up: Note, I've already pulled the output shaft in this picture. I was inserted into the hole in the bottom left of the engine. And here it is all bugared up: New next to old, the gear just slides off and transfers over. Here's our old cover, we need to move the electrical switch and wiring over to the new cover, as well as the output shaft bearing. Mine just fell out for some reason, but required some hammer tapping to insert it into the new cover which was odd. This sensor located bottom center must be transfered: -------------------
  4. Here's what you'll find under that black cover. I believe this is a 17mm. An impact gun zipped it out. Notice the long bolt has an O'ring seal on it. Inspect it and replace it if necessary. Mine looked fine. Next is the crap on the bottom of the cover. The two electrical connectors simply pull straight off, and the cable and brackets will need to be unbolted. The bolt holding the black bracket is a dual use bolt, meaning it holds the bracket but is a critical fastener for the cover as well. The one holding the silver cable bracket is not. Here's what's under the kickstart cover. This is how your ATV makes its own electricity. Basically, an alternator. The backside of the cover itself: --------------------
  5. Ok so I propped it up, swingarm already removed, to get ready for teardown: Note its no longer sitting on the rear jackstands because I hooked a chain hoist to the rear and lifted it by the rafters. Made it much easier to roll under with my stool. This is pretty basic. Pull the driver's side tank plastic off, oil fill cover, and complete airbox assembly. That's basically it, you can see the entire rear of the engine once that is removed. Make sure you have all the right parts: Before we turn any more wrenches, you'll notice your two gaskets have nice pieces of cardboard protecting them. Lets use those as drawing boards and trace them. Then punch the bolt holes with a screwdriver and you have a handy place to store your bolts since there are several different sizes that will come out of this cover. Now we are at the business end....let's start by pulling the 4 bolts that hold the kickstart cover on. This cover has no gasket and no sealer. I recommend you use some rtv when it goes back together. You can never be too careful. ---------
  6. I'm gonna tag this thread with Foreman 500 secondary gear reduction. Im doing that because on the 500s the secondary gear reduction is accomplished by changing the gear on the output shaft and the smaller gear directly above it. So this could be very useful for someone doing that procedure as well. So let's start from the beginning. It was a great day to ride at Highlifter, and we set out into the woods. Not long after a heard a huge clunk and the bike lurched forward when giving it gas. I was able to engage 4wd and the front tires pulled me back to the trailer. There was some awful noises along the way however so I knew something was torn up pretty good. I cut the driveshaft boot off and found this: So I went ahead and took the swingarm off and this curious little guy fell out: When I dumped the swingarm out, this was in the driveshaft tunnel: I also noticed the output shaft was bugared up, and the rear case was cracked a little, so I ordered up some parts. Output shaft 23611-HP0-A00 $43 Rear crankcase cover 11340-HP0-A10 $136 (comes with 91201-965-000 o'ring pre-installed) Kickstart cover gasket 11396-HP0-A00 $11 Rear cover gasket 11395-HP0-A00 $13 Output shaft seal 91205-HM7-003 $10 Optional but I did not order: Kickstart oil seal 91202-HP0-A01 $8 --------------------
  7. The o-ring that seals your bearing plate to your axle tube is plain not gonna stay in place without some help. The bearing needs to be lightly tapped on the axle, so apply some rtv of choice just to hold it in place while you position your bearing. Here is the bearing plate, caliper bracket, and line bracket mocked up: Here's another issue with this kit. The turn cam that drives the caliper closed is dry, I think it needs grease. Rotate it out of the caliper, add the grease/lube of your choice and re-insert. Also, the long bracket needs two things done, remove the powder coat out of the hex hole at the bottom, and two: remove the powder coat out of the slots, otherwise this will not go together. Hey at least the tolerances are nice and tight. Threw the disc and caliper rear bracket on after the touches: Another issue, focus on the castle nut. They supply you a very thin washer, well its not thick enough. You will need to add 1/4" minimum in washer thickness or the disc will slight left and right because the castle nut runs out of threads before its tight. I put their wider washer first, then my thicker one next, then the castle and it worked perfect. And this is fully assembled and adjusted. Huge improvement. My driving impressions were: Good stopping power. If this was your only brake on the machine you could get by easily. I'd say it stops as good as a perfectly functioning drum setup, the difference is, this wont hold water and stop working. Should be easier/cheaper maintenance and upkeep also. Win/win. EDIT: Added hydraulic to it. I started by buying the generic 68" ATV brake cable off ebay. It was about $20. Anything longer then that and price goes up quite a bit and is hard to find. Turns out the stock brake line is about 80". So yeah, it didn't work. Here's what I had going for me: $24 generic driver side master, revised bracket, new caliper/pads: Came up slightly short: Turns out for "scooters" there is a longer cable for about $30. Well before I knew about that I bought an AN line from Russel. I converted the brake fittings to AN, used straight couplers, and a prefit, pre-made brake line so it was all plug and play. Perfect fit, and remember I have the 2.5" longer 450 swingarm. I bought solid washers also instead of the oring stuff that SuperATV provided. I was even able to keep my winch control on the drivers side: Impressions: Stops incredible after about 3 pumps. I think the master is not strong enough to make this caliper do the full amount of work its capable of. On the first pump its a decent braking amount but not enough for an emergency move...by the third pump, its got impressive stopping power. I may change to a name brand master and see if that makes it better.
  8. This smelled like straight cow manure. Apparently it had been hiding in there for some time: And this is the drum, besides being wet, overall in good shape (750 miles) What hides beneath is a mess. There is stuff growing in there.....absolutely due to owner neglect. With the pads moved out of the way: Dis-assembly complete. Now its time to install the new stuff.
  9. This is the new bearing part number, already assembled: For those not that familiar with the outboard drum setup on the 500 foreman, this it. A little closer pic: You'll notice from this pic I had to cut a stud off so I could get a wrench on the castle nut. It would not budge otherwise as I didn't have the correct sized socket. This was stock as assembled by Honda and 8 years old. You can see the dust cover seal has already taken some punishment, and would be a high failure point due to constant clay mud and water intrusion.
  10. This is part number: RDBK-H. Fits: TRX300 2x4 1988-2000 TRX300 4x4 1988-2000 TRX350 RANCHER 2x4 2000-2006 TRX350 RANCHER 4x4 2000-2006 TRX400AT RANCHER 400 2004-2007 TRX420 RANCHER 4x2 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS) TRX420 RANCHER 4x4 2007-NEWER (with Solid Rear AXLE, not IRS MODELS) TRX400 FOREMAN 4x4 1995-2003 TRX500 RUBICON 2001- NEWER TRX500 FOREMAN 500 2005-NEWER So we start it off, everything was packaged nicely. Full color instructions....nice touch: Disc looks sturdy:

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