ATV, UTV, SxS Classifieds Forum

Flywheel puller. Does anyone have the size as the part #529 036 049 is non existent

Yup. Adjust the idle as I suggest then try riding it. If it still stumbles at about 1/4 throttle then try lowering the slide needle one notch. I think lowering it will be what's needed, but if I'm wrong it will hopefully make a change to show that is the part needing work.. If lowering the needle does make it worse then we will try raising it by two notches. Which ever way you move it to improve things, try moving the needle one more notch in the same direction until it starts performing badly again and then go back a notch.. The idea being to check the slide needle can go too rich and too lean, and finding the best spot.

This atv was a project when i bought it, it seemed to run fine but becuase the driveshaft joints needed replacing i was not able to really test the performance. The carb is brand new, the other one was also a repacement but it was missing screws and with all the trouble i decided to just replace it, but clearly that didnt help... Ill try your suggestions and see how it goes and report back.

Does that vehicle have a model number ? I have some EV manuals, one of which seems likely to be for that vehicle, but I think there are several makes and models all using the same or similar running gear and frames.

WANTED MAIN CONTROL BOX/BRAINS for a 2014 Titan UTV Scout E2.

Best to start a new thread Manny.. And tell us more about the bike, history, condition etc..

And.. All that advice and recommendations are based on the assumption that you've already had the carb apart and cleaned it thoroughly, with every brass jet out, and all the drillings blown out.. Also, you are sure the breather hoses on the carb and the fuel tank are on correctly and clear.. A blocked carb breather can make them flood badly..

Ok, and this is the original carb, the one that had been on it and operating ok until now right ? I think there's two things you need to do.. They might not cure the problem but they will give us some clues about what's going on. First off it's important to adjust the idle mixture with the throttle wound off as far as possible. If you look under the butterfly there are two tiny holes where the idle mixture gets discharged, one on each side of the butterfly when it's closed. At idle the hole near the air-filter end allows air in to chamber connecting the two holes and that air dilutes the fuel/air mixture which you are adjusting with the idle mixture screw. Once you have the mixture set right with that extra air coming in, and then start to open the throttle, the hole that had been letting air in starts to discharge the relatively rich mixture that the mixture control screw is supplying. The effect is that the mixture goes from optimum to slightly rich because the hole that was diluting the mixture is now discharging fuel/air mix instead. That has an effect similar to a accelerator pump on other carbs. If you wind the throttle opening up and adjust the mixture then you end up trying to dilute all of the fuel coming out of the two holes with the mixture screw, which doesn't really work so good(you get badly atomised fuel), and then when you start to open the throttle the mixture goes lean instead of the desired richer. So I think you should do that first. Wind the throttle back as far as possible so it just idles, then try adjusting the mixture. If it speeds up, back the throttle off again and repeat.. Keep repeating until it starts responding to the mixture screw as it should, and it idles steadily at a low speed, and then, once the idle mixture is right at the very low throttle setting, adjust the idle speed screw so it idles at the recommended revs. Try it like that and then if it's not reving as it should I think you should try lowering the slide needle by one notch. That's an easy job on most bikes. There's no reason why a slide needle should need changing during the normal course of events, but they can get misadjusted if people have had them apart, and the slide needle starts to control the mixture at about 1/4 throttle, so the symptom fits it needing adjusting. While you have the slide out check the diaphragm carefully for splits. You need to flex it carefully to find splits sometimes.

Can you please tell me if this is the diagram I would use to figure out what all the wires on my Kill Switch Assembly go to? I don't have a kill switch on my 01 Bear Tracker 250 and the parts are discontinued. most of the compatible ones that I have found don't have all the same wires (mine tends to have more) and the connectors are different. I'm not experienced enough to know how to remedy this issue. I thought that i could just pull the brass terminals out and get connectors that match up and reconnect it that way, but I don't know if that will work as mine I believe has 8 wires and most of the others have 6-7. my original had a 6 pin connector with brown, yellow, bue, blue with black, green, black and a 2 pin connector with red with black and red with white.

I have a 110 newstart moter that I don't know what wires go were to start moter