Honda 300 Fourtrax EPI Clutch Install

[SSreda4]

I ordered an EPI clutch kit from Highlifter for my 300 Fourtrax. I had already installed one on my 500 Foreman and enjoyed it so much I figured the little bike needed one as well. Being as I had already installed one, I assumed this one would be cake. Well it was, but I found Highlifter's instructions to be severely lacking for a potential novice. I wanted to make this thread to describe some of the shortcomings of their instructions.

So this is what you've purchased:

Honda Clutch Kit

And the UPS man was kind enough to deliver it on time:

Follow the instructions, you'll remove a kick start, an oil fed line, and some perimeter bolts, yada, yada. And you'll end up with this: However, Highlifter says don't remove the kickstart. Well, you shouldn't. But, in my case, there was build up on the shaft and it would not let the cover past, so the kick start falls apart in your hands. Tough luck because the instructions don't guide you further. But, I will.

Let's forget about what crumbled in your hands and lets focus on the clutch first. It says un-stake the nut, use a puller and remove the whole clutch assembly....Really Highlifter? It did not say that on the exact same centrifugal clutch on my 500...Why would you suggest this on the 300? Don't wanna buy a special puller? Don't wanna un-stake a nut? Well you've come to the right place. We are gonna get it done without all that stuff. You are gonna want to go to your local Harbor Freight and buy these welding clamps:

[SSreda4]

See this staked nut??? You don't have to fool with it.

Clamp your new clamps exactly here, and remove one clip at a time. As you remove one rotate the clutch around and re-clamp and continue to remove until all of them are off. At this point you can remove the old springs and replace with the EPI setup. To reinstall the front plates you will re-clamp and install the C clips one at a time again, reverse of removal. Notice in my pic the purple EPI springs are already installed.

There's a reverse lock-out lever, and it will need to be positioned like this: Please notice that black screen. That catches debris from engine wear. Pull it and clean it.

There's a shift lever that will need to be positioned like this: remember the mark on the case and the mark on the shaft will line up like on this pic:

For the kick-start the mark will need to face 12 o'clock. You will hook the spring up top, then spin the shaft around and lock the tang inplace in the bracket. Super simple.

Back to why my kickstart came off in my hands. Well apparently debris/paint/corrosion add up and cause an increase in shaft outside diameter and it doesn't want to come through the cover. To fix this before re-installation I buffed the shafts down. Here they are shined up and thinned down some. I did both the reverse shaft and the kickstart.

[SSreda4]

This is a gasket prep disk, it removes just a touch of material. It's perfect for removing built up crud on the shafts. The grease we'll get to in just a second.

The grease you'll use to hold your triangle 3 ball bearing for your shift clutch as you re-install the engine cover. Spring goes out per the service manual.

And when its all done fill er up with this junk.

[SSreda4]

Bump this back up.....