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By Richard Paradise
My 1997 Beg Bear got stuck in 2nd Gear when parked on slight hill, otherwise in perfect shape. Trying to get it into neutral, by rocking it back and forth won't release out of gear.
Any suggestions, It's my work horse and I keep it in to shape, got to get it running..
By Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones
All I have been through everything. Bought brand new.
Throttle safety switch
Cam and rockers
Fuel safety switch
Everything every forum has spoken of I've bought sealed airbox completely tight unplugged black wire on trans. I have literally done everything in the book.Checked oil today full of gas anyone no anything what might b wrong. Next I'm taking head off and making sure valves seat any ideas.
Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.
What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.
Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
Thanks in advance.
Just picked an '03 Bayou 300 2WD. It runs ok, needs a little help though. Maybe someone can answer some questions for me.
1. The choke "off" position is the lever all the way right, correct?
2. The choke seems mechanically... funky. It has a little valve clamp around the rubber boot where it goes into the carb, seems kind of janky, I don't think there's typically a valve clamp on that part? The engine seems like its running really rich, smoking a bit, so I wonder if I can just completely remove the choke cable to see if that's part of the issue? But I don't fully understand the choke needle setup. Is "choked" when the needle is being pushed in, or pulled out? Like it I chopped the cable just outside the rubber boot by the carb, would I be permanently choking it or permanently unchoking it.
3. I've read that I can tweak the air/fuel screw and maybe fix the rich mix. Where is that even located, and if it's behind a cap that I have to drill out... where is that?
Thanks for any tips
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