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By Dra O
Looked at this one-owner 1998 454 today. Pics below. Do you see TONS of cash being tossed into this thing? I like the low miles but I don't like the electrical "arrangement."
1360 miles - one owner that used it for hunting - owner said it has been outside, as is, for 5-6 years (he originally told me 10 years).
-a marine battery charges EVERYTHING (I didn't think this was possible) - he did this primarily for the wench - a charged 12v battery didn't turn anything on the instrument panel - a charged marine battery would help but I didn't have one in my back pocket
-no oil detected after taking off cap and I put my finger in DEEP. no gas in tank. brake fluid reservoir not dried up but has dark/old fluid
-tires w/ good tread but cracking walls - some rims rusted but appear to be straight -air box dry but filter old/useless -original carb - didn't take out to inspect
-foot shifter felt good/cycled through the gears -pull start worked but I failed to check for spark
-and then there's the WIRES... and WIRES... and WIRES. Basically neuroanatomy 101. More like Arctic Cat Nightmare 101. New wiring harness on ebay runs around $70 - but this guarantees nothing.
But the plastics are good
Thoughts and opinions welcomed. "Run away" -- "You're an idiot if you pay more than $XX for that piece" -- "Don't even THINK about it"
Pictures below - may involve a second/third page
By Andrew Baker
I need help with wiring on a 1998 (I think, 10th digit of the VIN was W) Bayou. I'm not getting spark, I'm pretty sure it is due to grounds being off because the harness is pretty hacked as far as the electric start and charging system goes. I'm needing a good wiring schematic. I found one online and there are a few things that don't add up on it so I'm skeptical that it is really for my year and model. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
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I was riding my 400ex one day and when i shut it off to put it in the garage i tried to start it put again to drive it into the garge and it wouldnt start.I put a compression tester on it and its like 30 psi with out throttle and 0 psi WITH THROTTLE.
when i put my finger over the hole it fell likes its pulling my finger in more then its pushing it out
Has good spark.When i took it into the shop the said it had 1oz of oil in it and a tiny pit of metal shaving(TINY BIT LIKE 30 flakes)
When i try to pull start (push start/roll start) it made a not normal sound and wouldnt stay running.
If my bottom end is blow why would it still turn over fine,
Are my valves siezed or not working properly
or is my timing off causeing valves to not open in correct order with fire
PLEASE HELP all help is appreciated
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