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I have a 1998 Big bear 350...the tail pipe/spark arrestor is broke in the exhaust....how can I get it out to replace it? And what's the best way to get the new one in?
got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price. one of which is a yamaha warrior. anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike? Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet. The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work. he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears. things I see: clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box. I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first. also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts. Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last). any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like. lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris
got a big bear I'm working on for a guy and it was flooding gas out into the air box, but still running. I pulled the carb and its beat up just like his other bike I worked on for him (the bayou 220). Its a weird carb tho: the throttle comes in at two locations. it has a plunger and a butterfly. Is this necessary and could I just switch to a butterfly carb? The problem with it is it has a broken float fork (the metal piece that holds the float pivot in place. I'm assuming it is causing the flooding. also the rest of the carb is well worn out and most of the screws are stripped telling me that it has been fiddled with too much by someone who didnt know what they were doing. Also, the oil temp light is turns when key is turned and then goes off after a second- dont know if thats supposed to happen or not.
Fixing for a friend. Atv was at a different friends house to be fixed and he rebuilt the carb and had it running nice, then it shut off and no more. He replaced the key and the coil.
So he got busy, so I am helping, I checked the wiring from the stator to the cdi, and from the cdi to the coil. All is good. I checked resistance on the pickup coil, good, and on the source coil, open. I buy a new stator (China) and the 4 prong plug only has 3 wires in it while mine has all 4. I checked resistance in the source coil and it's in the 300's. I pulled one of the old pickup wires out of the old stator and wire it in the new one. Still no spark.
Why do the wires differ, I checked the VIN again and it's "J" for the year and I got a 1988 stator. Please help!
So my parents have not let me get my license yet and I need to get around to gets parts and stuff. Answer: Yamaha CW50 scooter. This is a 2-cycle self-mixing scooter that so far, I am really surprised with the power output and speed. It reaches about 45mph since the speedo has been disconnected and has plenty of power for two riders. Its stupid looking, but with some work and a title and plate, it'll take me around town.. My issue is this: No key. I bought it for $150 from a friend and he bought it from someone for $100 who wired in a switch in place of the ignition. That guy got it form his neighbor who's renter left it behind. The scooter will run with this switch on or off (kill switch on handlebar kills engine) To get it tiled and a plate so its road worthy, I need to get the ignition working either by a replacement key or a new ignition. All wires are cut to the ignition and the switch turned on the power to the signal light switch. Also, the 2-cycle oil was leaking out the carb, through the air filter and onto the scooter. also, it runs great, but its making blue smoke with throttle and the muffler is wet with oil.
(I have new signal lights for it btw) So the issues I have with it summed up:
No key (need new ignition) smokes burnt out headlight- can I replace them with LEDs?
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This was probably the roughest ride we went on to date, I know in the video it doesn't really show how rough the ride actually was but boy the Yamaha grizzlys 700 definitely never enjoyed that run at all the silverbacks and Yamaha grizzlys are definitely not built to go rock climbing like we just did in this video. But that being said this run was a good one and Jon only broke 1 shock on his Yamaha grizzly 700 Follow us on instagram: instagram.com/Offroad.dan instagram.com/muddymillz
By Robert Ochoa
Don't worry about hauling the ATVs. We have the helmets, goggles, and gloves covered too. Our equipment is well maintained and gassed up ready to go!
We take the work out of your fun!
Book your next adventure now!
#fourwheeler #atvlife #atvriding #atv #4wheeling #fourwheeling #mudding #outdooradventure #atvs #mudlife #powersports #northcarolina #southcarolina #southcarolinalife #offroading #AwesomeATVRentals #yamaha
Purchased a 2008 Yamaha Raptor 250 for my son about 1 year ago and have been having problems with the starting system ever since.
Since owning for one year we have gone thru 2 starters and 2 starter gears. Now its spring 2019 and time for a third replacement. Am starting to think that we may have a more serious issue.
Upon replacing, the starter and starter gear, its starts fine, then after about 10 starts, you start to hear a bit of grinding. The grinding slowly gets worse until the teeth on the starter and the starter gear become trashed.
I've heard possible solutions from the starter clutch needing replaced to the casing for the starter gear shaft being out of spec?
I've also noticed that here is no difference or change if its in gear or not.
I just replaced the trans clutch as well.
Complete Grizzly build
I built this Grizzly to preform at top ability in the mud! There is a few things that i am looking to change on the grizzly but well see!
Gorilla Silverbacks 28x10x12 Front, 28x12x12 Rear
( https://atvtirescanada.com/gorilla-silverback-tire.html )
( https://n2deepcustoms.com/ )
Rox Speed FX risers and bars
( https://bit.ly/2TsRv18 )
2r Racing tip
( https://amzn.to/2GgNdpE )
( http://2rracing.com/ )
White Secondary spring. 8 - 16g rollers, 1.5mm shim
( bought at local dealer )
Rad Relocation kit:
( http://www.rubberdowncustoms.ca/ )
12" Light bar
( https://amzn.to/2TrfZYy )
( https://amzn.to/2TpF9Xu )
Flush Mount LED headlight conversion:
( https://amzn.to/2D10Lm8 )
Yamaha front Bumper
( bought at dealer )
( https://amzn.to/2DQwmIR ) - guards
( https://amzn.to/2S2BCSq ) - mounts
3/4 inch spring spacers
Synthetic winch line
( https://amzn.to/2Gj1S3F )
By Alan Callison
Hello boys and girls!:howdy:I need a little help if ya dont mind.I need to replace the rear axle bearings on my 400 but Im going at this blind having never done it before. Ive looked it up in the repair manual but it doesn't give any specific steps on how to do it. I've got the left rear brakes off already as I was replacing the shoes anyway. Can somebody give me a rundown on what Ive gotta do please?I know I need to pull the right wheel off just havent done that yet. Do I need to take anything apart in the final drive or elsewhere in order to yank the axle out for instance? Which side does the axle come out from,L or R? Any details I need to know will be greatly appreciated.Thanks ya'll!
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