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By geezer99
Well, I bought the Axis 500 sold at Lowes for $8999 a couple days ago. This post will be about my impressions as I use, fix, and abuse the machine. I will add to the post as I gain experience with it.
Thanks to other posters on this site warning of new machines with loose hardware, one of my first actions was to crawl all over it checking fluids and connections. Zirks were all freshly greased, fluids in engine, and gear boxes were up to level. One of the little gas struts that help lift the bed to dump was dangling with only one end connected, and the other strut had not been fully tightened.
Here are some things I don't like:
The rear gearbox does not have a differential in it. It is essentially a solid axle. Tight turns on lawn will leave tracks, and turns are not as tight on pavement. In my case this won't matter much, but if you plan to use it on a lawn, this will create tracks on turns.
To check engine oil you need to remove both front seats and a plastic cover. This according to the manual. I'm pretty sure it can be checked with that stuff in place, either from under or above, but that remains to be seen.
I am not used to a CVT transmission. I am used to a clutch and multiple gears. This one requires giving it plenty of gas out of the hole and then backing off to get it to shift up. I'm sure I will get used to it, but I'd like to be able to take off quietly if I want to.
The doors have bungie cords to act as springs to close them. I removed the driver door so I would not need to fight the constant pressure to close. Problem solved. I will leave the passenger door as is. Gotta keep the grandkids safe.
The status display is hard to read if the sun is on it.
Here is some stuff I like:
I was concerned about there being enough torque to slowly climb a steep hill. There is. I will elaborate more on this when I've had it on my steeper trails.
The display has dedicated lights to indicate status of gear position, low oil pressure, over temp, and a bunch of other stuff. This helps a beginner with feedback that an action taken was successful.
The sparsity of knobs on the tires dig in well on most surfaces. I bet they wear out fast on pavement.
The tilt bed has a tail gate that is easy to operate. Much like early Japan pickups.
Steering is responsive and little slack. Remains to be seen how long to get loose since the u-joints are operating at quite sharp angles.
Seats are pretty nice. Will be interesting to see how long it will take me to poke a screw driver though them.
Seat belts are included to hold grand kids in. Won't go over 5 mph if both aren't buckled. Yeah, it works to buckle them empty. Doing this leaves the belt high on back, so you don't have to sit on it.
Hauling it home, my trailer wheel wells were too close together to clear the tires of the UTV. This required driving it off center a bit, with one set of tires inside the wells and one side driving over the wheel well. Creeping over the one well required climbing a 10 inch vertical well. The ability to lock the front axle differential kept both front wheels pulling as I drove the one side up and over the wheel well. The guys at Lowes were impressed. They won't touch any but an unobstructed flat trailer loading.
As I gain more experience I will add to this topic,
tom
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By BillR94
I picked up this ATV that had no spark. The previous owner said he was driving it and it died and would not start. He discovered it had no spark. He replaced the CDI and the coil with no luck. He got tired of it and I bought it. I replaced the stater and now it has strong spark. Now, it starts for a second or two then dies. It will not stay running. I have checked the timing and it is spot on. The valves are adjusted correctly. I see no warn issues with the cam. I put the original CDI and coil back on it. Same problem exists. Compression is at 65 psi (has decompression mechanism),
I took off the muffler in case the issue was clogged pipes. No change. I replaced the spark plug. No change. The carb was an aftermarket so I put a Niche carb on with no change. I bypassed the fuel pump and that did nothing to solve the problem.
I don't know if this is a carb issue or an ignition issue. I am looking around locally for an OEM carb to try out but not sure that will fix the problem.
Can anyone help me solve this problem. I am running out of ideas.
Thank you for your time
Bill
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By joezee13
After turning off engine in neutral starter wont engage If I rock unit back and forth it engages Getting progressive worse.
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By middlebrookgt
Hi All. I introduced myself some weeks ago with my 2006 LT-F400F that needed a list of repairs including replacing the cracked generator cover. It is back together as of last night and cranks up, idles and revs high pretty well. Needs some fine tuning and stop backfiring at stop.
The big issue is it will not go into gear. I reassembled the insides with help from y’all’s posts. The transfer selector moves from H-L-R, and the foot shifter moves thru the gears and finds neutral easily enough. Before I tear it back open, the transfer selector on top does not move as far as the repair manual says. The diagram shows the shaft moving something like 40 degrees between L and H and 50+ degrees between L and R but it doesn’t move that far even though it finds the indent areas and moves well.
Could this be the problem. I aligned all the dots on the shifter gears inside and it appeared to not be binding anywhere. I do hear the gears touching when I shift like they are trying to engage, but zero movement from the ARV
It was somewhat difficult to tell whether all the parts are installed on each shaft.
Are there better/bigger photos somewhere that would allow me to be confident I included all the washers and bushings, etc? If I had any doubt on parts that were laying inside after the cover broke then I purchased replacements from online stores.
TIA for any input or feedback!! Pics are from when I first took the generator cover off.
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