bumping up the HP trx700xx
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By cruteg8
Does anyone know forsure if u can swap out the Crank Case on a 2001 kawasaki Lakota 300 sport with a kawasaki Bayou 300 Im seeing yes and no all over some say the mounting position is different so you can't swap the cases but everyother inernal engine part you can swap then im seeing no problem bolts right on can someone plz clarify who knows forsure
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By middlebrookgt
I have replaced the cracked stator cover on my non-running 2006 LT-F400F that I purchased recently, checked all the shafts vs the service manual and pics and advice here. I replaced missing gears, bushings and washers, made sure that truth marks were all aligned properly, that the shift cam springs felt like they returned properly, etc. IAfter installing the new stator cover I checked the transfer lever for proper movement from L-H-R and then cranked it up. Happily, it runs and changes gears well in L, but it will not shift into H or R for anything. I have opened it back up and am going back through it looking for the missing puzzle piece(s) but how can I best check that I have everything right this time before buttoning it back up?
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By p5200
Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
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By kawasig
Hello All
I have a 1987 Suzuki dual range 230 and a 96 bayou 220. I'm trying to figure what oil to use. I normally put Amzoil synthetic in most everything. But I understand there are concerns over the wet clutch. I've heard rotella 10w40 full synthetic,5w40 synthetic,10w30&40 non synthetic. I do live in Michigan, so temps cold and hot are encountered. It could be below zero or 90 degrees farenhight. I don't have manuals for them. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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By remnar
New member here,
I have searched here and other places and have not found an answer to my problem. As the title says I have a 2014 420 Rancher that recently started having an issue were the revs before the clutch engages.
I have checked the oil level (per the service manual) and replace the Valvoline ATV 10w40(less than 5 hours) with 10W30 GN4 for good measure. I have used the "pin" method to pull a DTC. I shows a 8-1 which is a TPS error. This makes some sense, as if the computer doesn't read throttle position correctly, it could have this symptom. I have checked the source voltage, and tested the TPS off the quad with a Fluke and a power supply at 5v. It is smooth and does not seem to be a bad sensor. I am confused by the DTC, because the PS light blinks the code, not the check engine light. However, there are no PS codes of that value. This condition appeared after a couple days of driving in the cold (~32°) and driving though some water/bogs.
A couple questions. First has anyone seen this issue, and do you have any suggestions? I have followed the troubleshoot right up to the point of replacing the ECU, which I don't seem to have one on the shelf :)
Second, anyone used a OBDII reader with an a 4pin adapter to pull codes? If so, what system do you use?
Beyond the rev issue, the quad runs and starts perfectly and when it decides, the clutch grabs tight (no slipping)
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