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Similar Forum Topics
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By hengstserepair
Howdy ya'll. I am working ona 2000 Yamaha Breeze 125. It was in rought shape when I received it and I am working through issues as they pop up. The quad had been sitting for years. I was able to get her running again, but I need your help with the following issue:
I don't trust the transmission yet and I don't want to make problems any worse. So, I haven't pushed things hard at all. Low rpms, less than 5mph in reverse.
Nuetral: Runs as expected
Reverse: She seems to be driving fine at slow speeds. Going into reverse at idle is fine, coming out of reverse back into neutral won't work (the shifter is just stuck). As soon as I turn off the quad, I am able to shift around without any issue.
Forward: It slips. It seems to only transfer power to the wheels on a smooth surface and going slightly downhill. When shifting into forward at idle, there is a clacking sounds during the transition. Shifting back to nuetral works just fine.
Other Notable Symptoms: There was old oil in the vbelt and when I was tuning the carb, it starting blowing out of the CVT cooling vent at the front of the quad. Made quite a mess. There is positive crankcase pressure due to piston blowby, that I have not decided whether or not I am going to fix (customer budget dependant). Since the oil was old, much darker than the new oil that is in the crankcase, I am thinking it seeped past a bad seal while it was sitting for years. The oil that was in it when I first got it had gas in it.
Thoughts: I am thinking maybe there is an issue with the clutch. I worry about the old oil intermingling with the dry centrifugal clutch. I was thinking my next step would be to take the cover off of the clutch and inspect it.
Let me know what you all think. Any advice and ideas is greatly appreciated. This is only the 3rd quad I have worked on and I have a lot to learn.
Lorne
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By BillR94
I picked up this ATV that had no spark. The previous owner said he was driving it and it died and would not start. He discovered it had no spark. He replaced the CDI and the coil with no luck. He got tired of it and I bought it. I replaced the stater and now it has strong spark. Now, it starts for a second or two then dies. It will not stay running. I have checked the timing and it is spot on. The valves are adjusted correctly. I see no warn issues with the cam. I put the original CDI and coil back on it. Same problem exists. Compression is at 65 psi (has decompression mechanism),
I took off the muffler in case the issue was clogged pipes. No change. I replaced the spark plug. No change. The carb was an aftermarket so I put a Niche carb on with no change. I bypassed the fuel pump and that did nothing to solve the problem.
I don't know if this is a carb issue or an ignition issue. I am looking around locally for an OEM carb to try out but not sure that will fix the problem.
Can anyone help me solve this problem. I am running out of ideas.
Thank you for your time
Bill
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By Jason39
I’m having a issue with my choke when its on it runs fine when I cut the choke off the atv cuts off went to take the carburetor off and saw the choke plunger broke at the nut to screw it in could this be my issue? Do I just need to buy a plunger kit and put it on? I took the carburetor off and cleaned both jets anyway just to make sure and it’s still having issues staying on
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By joezee13
After turning off engine in neutral starter wont engage If I rock unit back and forth it engages Getting progressive worse.
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By middlebrookgt
Hi All. I introduced myself some weeks ago with my 2006 LT-F400F that needed a list of repairs including replacing the cracked generator cover. It is back together as of last night and cranks up, idles and revs high pretty well. Needs some fine tuning and stop backfiring at stop.
The big issue is it will not go into gear. I reassembled the insides with help from y’all’s posts. The transfer selector moves from H-L-R, and the foot shifter moves thru the gears and finds neutral easily enough. Before I tear it back open, the transfer selector on top does not move as far as the repair manual says. The diagram shows the shaft moving something like 40 degrees between L and H and 50+ degrees between L and R but it doesn’t move that far even though it finds the indent areas and moves well.
Could this be the problem. I aligned all the dots on the shifter gears inside and it appeared to not be binding anywhere. I do hear the gears touching when I shift like they are trying to engage, but zero movement from the ARV
It was somewhat difficult to tell whether all the parts are installed on each shaft.
Are there better/bigger photos somewhere that would allow me to be confident I included all the washers and bushings, etc? If I had any doubt on parts that were laying inside after the cover broke then I purchased replacements from online stores.
TIA for any input or feedback!! Pics are from when I first took the generator cover off.
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