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By Nick Martini
I haven't had a dirt bike or ATV for years, but a buddy of mine just picked up a raptor 700 and makes me want to get back into the sport. I'm looking for the best bang for my buck utility quad that can go in snow, but also hit some small jumps and trail ride. It would mostly be used for light trail riding; not really any mud holes or jumps around me (Bristol, Massachusetts). My last bike was a 2004 yz125 2 stroke and it was a pain. Every other ride I was doing something to the bike. I'm looking for a utility quad that I can ride for a month without having to touch it. I've done a bit of research so far and it seems like my best bet would be ~2014 Yamaha grizzly 700 with ~1000 miles for about $5,000. I'd love some more opinions from people who are more knowledgeable about the sport. I'm looking to stay around that $5,000 range. Also, there's no trails around me to go more than 40 or 50mph so I'm not too worried about keeping up with the 700.
I have a gentleman that asked me to service his bayou for him. I have always wondered what oil should be used in atv engines? Pros? Cons? What weight should be used in what type of weather? Is there one kind that I could bulk buy and safely used in any quad I worked on or owned? What about performance? Engine Life? This has always been a 🤔🤔🤔 area for me with quads as far as why you would use one type of oil over another....
Well I came on here hoping to read a manual about the quad but found that I have to make some posts before that can happen, so here is one.
I work on peoples stuff. Had this well used unit come to me with a no start issue. I found it had fuel and spark was good but it only had 30 pounds of compression. I put each cylinder to TDC and feed the plug hole with a small amount of air pressure and could hear the escaping air coming out the carb openings. I then checked the valves lash at TDC and found that booth cylinders had 0 lash for the intake valves. I reset the lash to .003 for all the intake valves and reapplied a small amount of air pressure and the leaking of air was gone. I then spent a few hours screwing all the parts I had to take off, back together and then drove it out of the shop.
The lash was only 1/4- 1/2 a turn too tight that caused the valve to stay open just enough to make it not start. IMO the heads could use an overhaul some time soon as the valves and seats have become a bit warn.
These ATV's just have too much crap stuffed into a small space, I wounder how many fasteners are used to hold 1 ATV together?
Here is what I have collected over the years and maybe it will help someone else.
There are so many and several are too large to upload as attachments, so see any thing you need just shoot me a PM and your email and I will get them on the way to you as fast as I can.
50cc to150cc Service Manual For Tank Motorsports.pdf
1986 CH250 ELITE SERVICE MANUAL.pdf
Charging and ignition systems for atvs.pdf
Chinese ATV Frame Diagram.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Clutch Diagram - Exploded Views.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Cylinder Head Diagrams.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Torque Specifications.jpg
Chinese ATV Repair Shop Manual - Valve Clearances.jpg
Eagle ATV Fender Body Parts Exploded Diagram.jpg
Eagle ATV Rear Axle - Exploded Diagram.jpg
Piston Ring Installation 4 Stroke Engines.jpg
Trouble Shooter Guide for BATTERY DRAINED Chinese Engines.txt
Trouble Shooter Guide for NO-COMPRESSION.txt
Trouble Shooting No Crank.txt
50 to 150cc GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Arrow 150 Engine Service Manual.pdf
Eton Shop Manual YXT-150.pdf
GY6 Shop Manual.pdf
Yerf Dog Spiderbox GX150 Service Manual.pdf
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