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I don't have a ton of electrical experience, but I think the basic workings of a regulator/rectifier are pretty straight forward. 3 diodes, so 2 power wires and 3 diode wires. Symptom is relays click on/off, more or less no power, sometimes will work, mostly no electric to switch, can jump solenoid and it runs.
If i understand a reg/rect correctly, i should have constant resistance one way on each power wire. So in a total of 12 ohm tests (3 per power wire, one way positive, one neg so 6 for one wire, 6 for the other), i should have 3 resistances one way on each power wire, am I correct? And they should all be reasonably close in resistance?
If i understand the way the reg/rect works correctly, then I have one bad diode as it doesn't read the same as the other 2 and this would be the cause of my issue?
All testing performed on the reg/rect unplugged on workbench, with a Fluke.
Just picked this up at a yard sale, runs and drives..color coded wires for battery were backwards, Meaning a red wire was used for negative and a black for positive....
Upon bringing it home decided to boost the battery and walked away giving it a small charge prior to starting it..came back to find battery slightly smoking and my Green light for power (neutral) was no longer lit up...Still starts when i pull start it with key on.
Turn key on and no starter spin up, no lights
Id like to get my Electric start working, What could be the problem, Where does one start.
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
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