Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

res2fr

Trying to bring one back to life 2

Recommended Posts

Hello all. As a second major part to trying to help my son bring a 2014 Coleman Outfitters 400 UTV to life I am trying to find a schematic of the electrical system for the complete machine. Have to try to wire a Kodiak 400 engine and CDI box into a New machine wiring harness. We also have to install the Complete harness into the machine as the old one was stripped out. Have nothing against buying a service manual but really love it if/when I can find a Schematic in a PDF file so I can blow it help to better follow the wire runs.

Edited by res2fr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By StolenATV
      Kawasaki Mule 4X4 Engine# FJ400DE114698 bright green and black with cover. Had a 40 gal spray tank in back, blue hoses. Taken with other tools from our barn.
      The post 2014 Kawasaki Mule XC SE appeared first on STOLEN 911.
      View the full article
    • By Rinconrecker
      RZR 2 for 2
      1st - Dry Pull Suzuki Samuri @ River Ranch


      2nd - Dry Pull Jeep CJ7 @ Rancho


      Who's next? coming for ya!!!

    • By MarkinAR
      I don't have a ton of electrical experience, but I think the basic workings of a regulator/rectifier are pretty straight forward.  3 diodes, so 2 power wires and 3 diode wires.  Symptom is relays click on/off, more or less no power, sometimes will work, mostly no electric to switch, can jump solenoid and it runs. 
      If i understand a reg/rect correctly, i should have constant resistance one way on each power wire.  So in a total of 12 ohm tests (3 per power wire, one way positive, one neg so 6 for one wire, 6 for the other), i should have 3 resistances one way on each power wire, am I correct? And they should all be reasonably close in resistance?
      If i understand the way the reg/rect works correctly, then I have one bad diode as it doesn't read the same as the other 2 and this would be the cause of my issue?
      All testing performed on the reg/rect unplugged on workbench, with a Fluke.
      Thoughts?
    • By northern
      Just picked this up at a yard sale, runs and drives..color coded wires for battery were backwards, Meaning a red wire was used for negative and a black for positive....
       
      Upon bringing it home decided to boost the battery and walked away giving it a small charge prior to starting it..came back to find battery slightly smoking and my Green light for power (neutral) was no longer lit up...Still starts when i pull start it with key on.
      Turn key on and no starter spin up, no lights
      Id like to get my Electric start working, What could be the problem, Where does one start.
    • By Dimelol
      I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. 
      So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got.  This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
      Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
      Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
      Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within the specified range.
      Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within specified range.
      Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) 
      My reading was 0.3 Ω
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...