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OK, sooo I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change... This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it. Runs like a top still... Very few issues over the years after buying it used.
But boy I wasn't expecting to see this! Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material. Nothing in the oil but that... Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top. Always has.
Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip? That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there. But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have.
The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even. Been a really good lil workhorse...
Any other ideas?
By David Goff
So i have an old yamaha bear tracker that was given to me from an old farmer I know. I decided to refurbished it and fix all the quick fixes on it. I am pretty sure that it is either a 1999 or 2000 based upon the original wiring harness. Little did i know when I bought a new to me wiring harness from ebay that it was from a 2003 or 2004. My question to everyone is do I need to have all the stop switch assemblies hooked up? I think there are three on the 03/04 models and only one on the 1999 to 2000. Any help I can get for this would be great. I haven't run it yet due to the motor and crankcase is in two totes.
The clutch cover goes on and fits, but the little L chapped arm that has gear slots is concerning me. It appears it goes to wear the clutch adjust bolts are on the cover.
Is there a specific way to tell how it mounts on the gears in relationship with the basket?
I don't want to deal it up unless it's right
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
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