Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 99 Kodiak 400 4X4 that I picked up for $300.  The previous owner had modified the foot shifter by welding a piece of rebar to it so he could hand shift while plowing.  As you can imagine, the allows for much more torque on the shifter than it was designed to have, and he broke the stopper off of the the shift mechanism.  No big deal, I ordered the part and put it back together, went through the carburetor and off we go, it runs pretty good.  

The first thing I noticed is that when I put the shifter all the way down it goes into reverse, I'm supposed to twist a knob to get it to reverse but this seems to be disabled.  Also, once in reverse, it's a bugger to get back out.  I have to hold the shifter up, then quickly back down and up again to get it to come out.  All forward gears work fine, clutch is tight, no problems.

The reverse cable and lever are in tact and seem to move freely.  

My question is this:  What does one normally have to do to get this thing into reverse?  I assume put it in neutral, twist the knob, kick the shifter down.  Does the brake need to be applied?  I'm not sure what's going on here, I suspect it's been 'modified' as it goes into reverse without the proper precautions, just not sure if the mods were external on internal.

 

thanks

Posted

The reverse knob goes to a cable thats connected to the lever on the engine obviously however inside that engine cover under the lever  is called a reverse cam stopper. There is a spring inside thats not returning the cam  or the small cam lost  its lobe.  
This is obviously designed to prevent you from downshifting all the way, bypassing neutral  and into reverse while the atv is moving forward. This would result in a catastrophic failure on the drive train.   
 

As far as how it works its simple, you downshift all the way to neutral and turn the knob and downshift into reverse and let the knob go. In order to get out its a simple upshift. 
You should have indicator light on the dash as well for reverse and neutral?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Ok, so it still went into reverse without the lever so I took the right side cover off and found the cam stopper was worn so bad that it would roll off the edge and go into reverse all by itself.  I welded the worn spot on the cam and ground it back down to a shape somewhat resembling square and put it back together - all good now.  I noticed the clutch disks were pretty worn as well so I just ordered a new set, as soon as they come in I'll get it put back together.

 

thanks

IMG_0651.jpg

IMG_0653.jpg

IMG_0654.jpg

  • 2 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Atomusthenes
      I would appreciate being pointing in the correct direction for a wiring diagram and or schematics of the 88 Honda FourTrax 300 4x4 if anybody has any knowledge of how to test the ignition system stator and CDI I don't know if the voltage regulator probably and also the FCU I put a new ignition in it it is a cheap aftermarket one doesn't have the correct plugs but has the correct wiring scheme I get power  the neutral light comes on and the oil light stays on it turns over but I have no spark
    • By Memphis
      Not sure if in right place but here goes
      My 300 is lacking power only reaching 30mph and struggling uphill everything else seems ok other that this problem cleaned all fuel new filter pan and all new fuel pump and spark plug full oil change is there anything I am missing
      ps It is auto and does noy seem to want to get in another gear 5200 rpm at 30mph
       
      Regards
    • By Tim Keiper
      1st problem, Does anyone know where I can find a stock carb for my Timberwolf, I have tried two different aftermarket carbs and they both suck. The machine runs great until it gets good and warm, then it keeps stalling unless I feather the throttle. it will even stall while I'm trying to go from 1st to reverse or vise versa. I took it to a buddy of mine who is a bike mechanic for years, and he told me try to find a factory carb. When I look online from dealers it says "NOT AVAILABLE" anyone have any suggestions ?
       
      2nd, The small tab on the rear axle for towing is to short for even pulling my small yard trailer, I can't even turn a little bit and hit hits. I tried making an extension which worked great as far as length, but it bends the tab and then the extension drags the ground. I have an idea of what to do to fix it, but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and see how you solved it.
    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By Travis_Smith
      I have a 2002 Kawasaki Prairie KVF 400 and im trying to figure out the actual float height... i have read 17mm +- 2mm, seen 13mm and 23mm... what is happening is it will start right up, rev a little and all is fine, when it warms and you put a load on it bogs down and sputters. no i don't have a manual
×
×
  • Create New...