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Doeas any have the actual electrical diagram for the distirbution block for this atv > I had a few wire not worky worky so needed to replace ends plus dam thiing is dirty so needs to clean all the contacts ..
Want to make shure I get eveything back in right place .... I have the repair manual but as we know it no help really .....
By Ahren Longo
Yeah I know its been a while since I've been on but, I've recently aquired a 2005 Polaris ATP 500. As ya'll well know I'm sure that these things are notorious for faulty ECMs and they are made of unobtanium. I got this one from my brother. I've unpotted the old ECM and tested the components and have concluded that they don't flow the board properly from the factory so that's why they crap out. I've also done some research and found that if you take the harness and Stator and flywheel from a 2004 its basically a plug & play application and it eliminates the need for the ECM. Why the heck they put it in anyways is beyond me. I'm going to devise a way to make a plug & play adapter harness that eliminates the need for the ECM and restores the wheeler to use. Has anyone tried this before and had any luck? I've been trying to locate a wiring diagrams online so I can compare the 2004 to the 2005 but they're pretty hard to find.
I recently purchased the subject UTV for my kids. It's my first Polaris (other wheeler is a Teryx4) - and my first-ever single-cylinder vehicle (even my mower has more)...
Valve lash adjustment values... The operating manual recommends verifying at specific intervals, but does not provide the clearances or procedure. Any idea where I can obtain those? Tach on the display shows about 1500RPM when at idle, and about 6000 when WOT at max speed (30MPH). Does that seem correct? The engine does not SOUND like it's going that fast, but that may just be my unfamiliarity with single-cylinder engines. The idle feels mildly rough - and the tach shows a fluctuation of about 50 rpm. It's not wild, but it is noticeable. Again, without any point of reference, I do not know if that's just the nature of the beast, or if I should be concerned. The front wheels spin freely in the forward direction (mild brake noise can be heard), but when rotating tires backwards, the brake pads grab the rotor with significant force - making it nearly impossible to turn the rotor by hand. Considering the cost of new rotors and calipers, I'm hoping there is a know 'fix' for this issue. Any help would be appreciated! My kids can't wait for me to give it the "all clear". Still waiting on helmets to arrive from Amazon, so I have a couple of days to get all the maintenance and repairs completed.
Ok so 2000 sportsman new.caltric carb new fuel pump new jug and piston new cdi and coil finally get to start it and itll idep for 5 to 10 seconds and die what am i missing people any help id love ya forever lol
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I have a Polaris Express 300 2 stroke. Finally got the engine running smooth with everything tweaked correctly on the carburetor.
I have now moved on to shifting the gears.
I have had this atv for a long time and high gear was always a pain in the ass to get to go into gear, reverse was okay and low was best.
You could always feel low go into gear.
A couple of months ago the spark plug cap went bad while I was trying to figure out the issue with shifting into high. At this time I put fresh gear oil in and never drained the old because it literally looked empty.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago. I finally got everything running but shifting into low you cant really hear grinding gears but it doesn't jerk like it used to when shifting into low and half the time it wouldn't shift fully.
Reverse would move but completely grinding, and high of course is still the pain in the ass.
All 3 gears when shifting into clicks like it got a good shift, not a click on the gears or anything, just a normal click that your in gear so I know I am not loose on the shifter rods.
I checked the gear oil and it was sort of milky, like barely and had bubbles. This means water is in it so i am going to drain the gear oil today.
What I am wondering is could the bad gear oil be the reason the gears aren't going in fully? I highly doubt it because of the symptoms with some gears grinding and others not going into gear at all like high.
Just need to know what the causes could possibly be.
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I went out today checking on some trails for downed trees and other things I will need to clean up before spring.
I am still working on getting my Drift HD cam set up, so the quality isn't where I would like it to be. My average speed was around 30 but even tho I got up to 40 once or twice, I think the video looks like I was going a lot faster. Maybe that has to do with the frames per second setting.
Anyways, I hope ya'll like it, and I am working on getting some other people out riding with me, so I can get some good action shots.
Sooner or later I will learn how to make better soundtracks too, so please bear with me, I am not quite up to Wyldes level of video making.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5XBcwemivo]Upstate NY riding - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lc41LMkFGc4]Upstate NY riding - YouTube[/ame]
We took a little drive today to go look at a truck I was thinking of buying. Bout an hour east of home.
Imagine a place where cars and trucks are secondary and ATVs are everywhere.
If so desired I could drive my foreman to church on Sunday.
This town was crawling with them. I even saw an old lady delivering a lunch sack on a little Bayou from a sandwich shop.
I must live here!!![ATTACH]1207[/ATTACH]
i finally managed to make it to the trails today, been trying four days to go!! this is the first time to really ride my king quad since i removed the fuel injection, other than just around the neighborhood. i took it out to the gravel pit, had one of my neighbors ride my honda so there was backup. both bikes done great ... until we got to the frog pond!!! i decided to take the trail through the back edge of the pond, got all the way around and then right as i was getting back into the pond i sunk it!! it went down to the handle bars, luckily I put a snorkel on when i put the carburetor on it!! it stayed running, but i never even thought of sealing the belt cover and running a snorkel of that!! it would not move in high range, would try to and just slip, in low range it would move as long as i didnt gas it too hard, just shut it down and towed it back, tomorrow im taking the bike apart and thoroughly cleaning and sealing everything, and replacing belt:aargh:
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