Quantcast
Jump to content


New project in the shop... 96-ish Quadrunner 250


Recommended Posts

So my oldest strolls up to the garage the other day with this fine specimen of day's past, a 96 or so Quadrunner.  Doesn't run, but it's complete...and free.  Had to soak the carb for 3 days in lacquer thinner and replace the fuel pump, but yesterday it ran down the road and back.  Always fun to ride one that's been sitting for years.

PXL_20210306_233912439.jpg

PXL_20210306_235555206.jpg

PXL_20210306_235601434.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here it is after cleaning the carb, gas tank, and replacing the fuel pump.  Next up is what to do about tires.  The back two are dry rotted and won't hold air.  They are also 10" wheels so there's no good options for a replacement tire that aren't more than the thing is worth.  Thinking about drilling an extra set of 4x110 wheels I already have that aren't on anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Ended up trading this one as it sat for a 9mm.  Not a bad trade having only $50 in it.  As far as an ignition switch, I'm not sure.  Lots of Suzuki's had them, but that's about all I can remember in older stuff.  Newer Can Am's have a 3 way but that's a chipped key that requires an ECU.  I would bet something like the link below would work, but can't confirm since I don't have either available to check.

 

https://www.hqpowersports.com/p/ignition-key-switch-1987-1995-suzuki-lt-80s-lt-80-s-atv-new/

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By semicolon
      Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump.  It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals.  I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier.  Still nothing!!  The pump runs when attached to a battery.  The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will  not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine.  Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
       
    • By Uglyside38
      I have a 1988 Quadrunner 250 2wd. My brother in law sold it to my son for $20...had been sitting outside for several years. Got it home and had it running in about 30 mins. Ran it a bit and then went to looking at the carb as it was having trouble idling. Was getting it pretty close, then started losing spark...Also, it wouldn't start up every time...only about 1 in 5 tries. Anyway...now, it has what I can only describe as "intermittent" spark. I can get 1 light spark right when the start button is pressed and sometimes one when it's released...but none while cranking. 🤷‍♂️

      I have replaced the spark plug, ignition coil/wire, and traced wires best I can. I noticed a couple frayed wires at the pickup coil where it enters the case. So, now I have the cover off, stator and pickup coil out and trying to test the coil. I do have about 114 ohms resistance for pickup best I can tell. And I can read minute voltage when I drag a magnet across it. Could it still be bad? Can a bad ignition switch/button cause this? (I did have the switch off to oil the choke cable)...pulling rope makes no difference though...any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!! It's the intermittent part that's throwing me off! 

    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
    • By Topendcol
      First issue was fuel pump wont start once ignition has been turned on. Replaced the pump as I had one on hand, than noticed no power so replaced the fuel pump relay as that was were i traced the power to. Still nothing so further inspection looks like signal is coming from the PCM (FLR B20) but not switching the the brown wire to the fuel pump. Ive checked the operation of the bank angle sensor and it appears operational. Fuses and wiring all appear OK. The engine stop relay also tests OK. Ive been through the repair manual and diagrams but to no avail. Fully stumped, any tips would be helpful. Thanks
      Col
×
×
  • Create New...