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By wendi loden
I replaced the fuel pump filter and it ran great for a week or so. Then while driving across the yard in 3rd gear it shut off and hasn't started since. It has fire and its getting fuel, all fuses are good, battery fully charged. The fuel pump relay seems to be warmer than it should be when spinning it over. Any help is appreciated!
By Jeni Lynn
2012 Rancher ES-- only when driving in 4x4 when I get to about 15-18mph there is a loud clunk in the front end and a hard downward jerk. Its almost as if its trying to downshift itself. It doesn't do it in 2 wheel drive. I have checked the angle shift sensor and applied dielectric grease to it, changed the front end differential fluid (the old still looked good and clean) checked and adjusted the clutch. Hopefully someone can give me some more ideas.
My Rancher cranks right up and runs great for a while and then it will suddenly sputter out and die. It usually cranks right back up and again runs great for a while and then same thing. Yesterday it got to where it acted like it wasn't going to crank back up a few time but eventually did. Any suggestions??
Any idea what would cause the cotter pin to break and the nut to back off? The loose hub is wollored out so its trash and the axle splines show a little wear. I'm going to replace the hub and I'm curious how much play is acceptable before I need to replace the axle?
The Kodiak 400 I just bought didn’t come with an air filter. I’m searching and am not finding an air filter that will work. I’ve checked Amazon, Bike Bandit, etc., but everything I am seeing is for a Big Bear 400 and reviews are saying it won’t fit a Kodiak 400. The bigger issue I am running into is that the ones I see all have what appears to be a female end for connecting with a clamp to a male inlet. The inlet in my air box is female. Now I know I ain’t no expert on ATV reproduction and procreation, but that just don’t work!
Can somebody please hook me up with a part number or suitable aftermarket filter? I really didn’t expect this search to be so difficult…..
I am new to this forum and hope that someone out there can help me, I have an early Suzuki King Quad 300 (280cc) which starts intstantly every time but at about half revs or there abouts it starts spluttering and will not rev any higher, this fault is present whether choke is applied or not, some one suggested that silencer maybe be clogged so removed baffle but no improvement have removed carb and stripped 3 times but still no joy.
Any ideas would be most welcome.
By tom reed
I am rebuilding a 1990 honda four trax they were so reliable but here in Alabama its very hot in the summer time, being a air cooled engine I have considered adding a cooling fan for the engine and I have plenty of room for it but my question is will that overload the generator and battery on it. Maybe someone out there can answer that
I know this has been talked about, so i did some research.
After my research, i started buying parts.
Here are the parts you need:
51380-HP7-A00, left front upper control arm
51370-HP7-A00, right front upper control arm
51350-HP5-600, right front lower control arm
51360-HP5-600, left front lower control arm
44615-HP5-600, front drive hubs (need 2)
53521-HP5-600, tie rods (need 2, this is just the adjuster rod, not the tie-rod ends)
51200-HP5-600, right steering knuckle
51250-HP5-600, left steering knuckle
53235-HP5-600, steering arm (connects the tie rod ends to the steering shaft)
23611-HP5-600, "final shaft", goes inside the engine, provides power to front and rear driveshafts)
40400-HP5-600, front driveshaft
44250-HP7-A31, right front axle
44350-HP7-A31, left front axle
11300-HP5-000, front crankcase cover
50350-HP5-600, front differential support bracket
41400-HP5-A50, front differential unit
You also need the 4wd shift lever and the cable that connects it to the differential. there is not a part number for the whole assembly, just look on ebay. thats where i got mine.
Now on to the good part, the turning of wrenches:
Here is the engine before removal:
front differential in position:
^^^notice the "TRX420TM" decal, indicating 2wd
Here is a pic of the "final shaft", comparing the 2wd (in my hand) to the 4wd (in the engine).
^This is the most difficult part of this conversion, removing and opening the engine to swap out this shaft. However, there is a lovely video on youtube showing how to rebuild this engine and they clearly show the steps to remove/replace the rear cover and final shaft. Dont forget to remove the front cover before installing the new shaft, it will not fit thru the 2wd front cover.
link to video>:
once the new shaft is installed:
you will need to install the front and rear covers using sealant, make sure all shims/washers and o-rings are in place in the correct locations referencing the video above.
here is the right front corner mostly assembled:
and fully assembled with hub, rotor, and brake caliper:
I do have more pictures to upload, when i have more time i will update this further
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