Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

How do I find out what I have?


Oger69420
 Share

Recommended Posts

Could you post the numbers here..

or....

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is composed of 17 characters. The standard was originally defined in ISO Standard 3779 in February of 1977. Then it was revised in 1983. The ISO VIN is designed to identify motor vehicles of all kinds: cars, trucks, busses, motorcycles etc.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) contains three major sections:
WMI - World Manufacturer Identifier (1,2,3 characters in VIN structure) If the manufacturer builds less than 500 vehicles per year than the third digit is "9". The WMI is described in detail in ISO 3780.
VDS - Vehicle Description Section. It contains 6 characters (4th to 9th positions in VIN) and defines vehicle attributes specified by manufacturer.
VIS - Vehicle Identifier Section. The last 8 characters of VIN define Year, manufacturer plant and serial (sequential) number of the vehicle.
The last four characters shall be numeric. The 10th position of the Vehicle Identification Number is a YEAR CODE.

ISO recommends that in VIN code capital letters A to Z and numbers 1 to 0 may be used, excluding I,O and Q in order to avoid mistakes of misread. No signs and spaces are allowed in Vehicle Identification Number code.
***********************************************

Recap with examples:

Digits 1,2,3 are World, Manufacturer, Identifier
Digits 4,5,6,7,8 are Vehicle descriptor Section -- *Somewhat variable based on manufacturer.
Digit 9 is the check digit
Digit 10 is the Year code
Digit 11 is the Factory code
Digits 12,13,14,15,16,17 are the Vehicle Identification Sequence


Let's see how this splits:

 

First digit - Country code
U.S.A.(1 or 4), Canada (2), Mexico (3), Japan (J), Korea (K), England (S), Germany (W), Italy (Z)

Second digit - Manufacturer
Audi (A), BMW (B), Buick (4), Cadillac (6), Chevrolet (1), Chrysler (C), Dodge (B), Ford (F), GM Canada (7), General Motors (G), Honda (H), Jaguar (A), Lincoln (L), Mercedes Benz (D), Mercury (M), Nissan (N), Oldsmobile (3), Pontiac (2 or 5), Plymouth (P), Saturn (8 ), Toyota (T), Volvo (V), Suzuki (S), Kawasaki (K).

Third digit - Identifier
Motorcycle (1), ATV (A) Kawasaki and Suzuki seem to follow this anyway

Fourth digit - Vehicle category
Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands.
ATV (A), Scooter (C), Business model or commuter (B), Single cylinder sport/street (N), Multiple cylinder sport/street (G), Family (F), Off road (S), V-Type engine, street, V2/V4/V6/8,... (V), Square Four (H)

Fifth digit - Engine Displacement
Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands.
A=49cc and less
B=50-69cc
C=70-79cc
D=80-89cc
E=90-99cc
F=100-124cc
G=125-149cc
H=150-199cc
J=200-249cc
K=250-399cc
M=400-499cc
N=500-599cc
P=600-699cc
R=700-749cc
S=750-849cc
T=850-999cc
U=1000-1099cc
V=1100-1199cc
W=1200-1299cc
Y=1400-1499cc
Z=1500 & up

Sixth digit - Engine Type
Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands.
1=2 stroke single
2=2 stroke twin
3=2 stroke triple or four
4=4 stroke single
5=4 stroke twin
6=?
7=4 stroke four

Seventh digit
Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands.
Design sequence or model version first version uses 1 then second version uses 2 etc... the tenth version would then be identified by the letter A then B etc..

Eigth digit
Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands.
First version uses 1 then second version uses 2 etc... the tenth version would then be identified by the letter A then B etc...

Ninth digit - Check digit
The ninth vehicle identification number digit is a VIN accuracy check digit, verifying the previous VIN numbers. This is how the check digit works


STEP 1
Assign to each number in the VIN its actual mathematical value and assign to each letter the value specified for it in the following chart:
ASSIGNED VALUES:
A=1 G=7 P=7 X=7
B=2 H=8 R=9 Y=8
C=3 J=1 S=2 Z=9
D=4 K=2 T=3
E=5 M=3 U=4
F=6 N=4 V=5


STEP 2
Multiply the assigned value for each character in the VIN by the position weight factor specified in the following chart:
VIN POSITION AND WEIGHT FACTOR:
1st = 8 10th = 9
2nd = 7 11th = 8
3rd = 6 12th = 7
4th = 5 13th = 6
5th = 4 14th = 5
6th = 3 15th = 4
7th = 2 16th = 3
8th = 10 17th = 2
9th = check digit

STEP 3
Add the products from steps 1 and 2 and divide the total by 11.

STEP 4
The numerical remainder is the check digit which would appear in the 9th position in the VIN. If the remainder is 10, then the letter "X" is used for the check digit.


Tenth digit - Year Code
80(A), 81(B), 82(C), 83(D), 84(E),
85(F), 86(G), 87(H), 88(J), 89(K),
90(L), 91(M), 92(N), 93(P), 94(R),
95(S), 96(T), 97(V), 98(W), 99(X),
00(Y), 01(1), 02(2), 03(3), 04(4),
05(5), 06(6), 07(7), 08(8 ), 09(9),10(A), 11(B), 12(C), etc.

Eleventh digit - Factory Code
Manufacturer code for what plant it was built in

Twelfth to Seventeenth digits - Serial Number

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh ok.. so it's a trike..  And 200 and 1983..  There will be some forum or site that will be able to break the digits down much more specifically for you.. market and specs, then you can look up parts much more knowingly.. and also use the online parts to narrow right down to exactly what carby and charging and other bits and pieces that vary.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

This might help.

For Honda Decoding:

http://atcvin.webs.com/

This website at the link above will decode all Honda ATC frame serial #s, including pre 1980 ones that are a little tricky. These can be found on the steering neck portion of the frame, behind where the headlight is on all Hondas, and most other makes.


For Other Makes:

http://decodemyvin.webs.com/

This site will decode all 1980+ frame serial/vin #s belonging to Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki machines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Parham
      This quad was a hot mess two weeks ago when I got it. I've been tinkering on it and have it running pretty good. It didn't have a pull start.  I just got one and installed it today.  Here's a little video of my first try at using it.  Hope it's worthy of a "onya" from Mech! 🙂
       
      IMG_3274_Trim.mp4
    • By UHNW-ATV-BOAT-TOYS-CAMPS
      Private locations to ride for families. 
       
      send a message for details. 
    • By HuckaDuck
      Was given a 1997 Bayou 220 for free that had sat in the back of a barn for almost 9 years. Owner had parked it because his kids got too big for it, and they have other bigger bikes, said when it was parked it ran fine. He gave it to me as a trade from some networking I did in his home.  
      First steps: 
      *Marvels Mystery Oil bath down the cylinder to free up the piston rings (I let sit for 24hrs) 
      *New battery as old one was shot from not having a charge for 8 years. I took my multimeter to the entire wiring harness and cleaned EVERY contact possible, as not even the headlights were working. After a few hours, everything electrical is now working. Headlights, green dash light, red reverse light (goes on and off with changing from reverse to neutral), and starter spinning strong (after a conversation with my mallet).   
      *Drained old oil (no glitter!) 2qts fresh oil with new filter. 
      *CDI was shot-- had zero spark and using a multimeter up the wiring harness everything was good up to the CDI—replaced with new one along with new plug wire and new plug now have excellent spark 
      The original carb was a total loss. I'm assuming it was parked full of fuel with the fuel switch on. It looked like they found it buried in the sand and put it on, it was so eaten and corroded my thumb went through it trying to get it apart—so new carb. I did also inspect the intake and none of what was in the carb made it into the engine, thankfully. 
      After oil bath, compression was still low—threw some brake cleaner down the intake and noticed smoke escaping from the head gasket—took the head off and saw the original head gasket was completely shot. Replaced that, and now compression is up to 90 from 50. I'm assuming, it'll need to go through a few heat cycles for the compression to really build back up (had the same issue with my 2000 Kodiak 400 from siting for 5yrs after a few heat cycles went to 180) 
      While the head was off, I did a leak test on the valves and liquid stayed, so no signs of gaps in the valves sealing. Also took a look at the piston and wall and both are in excellent shape, very clean conditions. 
      At this point, the bike should fire off or at least pop… but now that compression is back it's sucking air in though both the carb AND the exhaust pipe. Putting my hand on the pipe (no muffler) I can feel it sucking air in, doing the same with the back of the carb, I can feel it sucking air there as well. It isn't pushing air out anywhere.
      I've checked timing and it's correct. The TDC mark on the flywheel is lined up with the spot on inspection hole. The mark on the timing gear in the head is lined up with the mark on the casting there as well, so timing is spot on. I don't believe it has a leak from the exhaust valve due to the leak test I did. I also don't believe a valve is sticking, I can see them both moving just fine when looking through the inspection holes. 
      In the past, I've had a bike have intake from exhaust and exhaust going out carb, but that was the timing being off, which doesn't seem to be the issue here. 
      Any advice on this would a big help as I'm stumped on what could be causing double air intake. Chances are it might be something simple that I'm not even thinking of. 
      At this point, I'm about to order a box of hair from Amazon Prime from all the head scratching going on.
    • By ebertz28
      Looking at 2 quads and need help deciding. #1 is a 2021 CF Moto 600 Touring with 69 miles, 2 seater with factory installed plow, windshield, backrest and luggage box with no warranty remaining  for $6500 or #2 2022 CF Moto 500 with 15 miles and a 2 year warranty for $6000?
    • By trx125flip
      yay forum stuff again... really needing a 87 trx125 service manual.. if anyone has one without a dead link that would be super! 
  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...