Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking for someone with knowledge about the Suzuki 500 'automatic de-compression' system when starting. It may be the same on many others in design, I do not know. It stopped working and one comment I got suggested I needed a new battery then use the electric starter. My starter is fine and works fine. But I know enough to realize decompression while starting allows for these tiny starters and batteries to be used instead of larger ones like on a car or truck. Over working the starter or punishing the battery is not the way to go. I guess it was my fault for putting it the way I did. 'Very hard to pull the rope because decompression is not working'. Does anyone have a diagram of the head and internal parts. 1998-2002 Suzuki 500 ATV's. I see nothing outward on this head for a decompression lever or linkage. Old dogs never die? or maybe they do from pulling that rope starter.

thanks for any help 

Posted

Parts diagrams are normally helpful, but not this time.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/atv/1998/quadrunner-4wd-lt-f500f/cam-shaft-valve

The service manual doesn't tell us anything. It looks very simple and similar to other one's I've seen. At start revs the weight falls down towards the cam shaft, and once it starts spinning faster the weight flies out. When it's in there will, I think, be a steel pin bumping the rocker up, lifting the valve.

It looks like you might be able to poke a screwdriver in through the valve adjuster holes and flick the weight.. 

output.pdf

Posted

Next up, I pull the covers and see if I can see inside.

I should mention this decompression worked fine until one day I had a fuel issue that slogged the combustion chamber full. Leak through caused hydraulic lock. I pulled the fuel line and plugged off the tank then pulled the spark plug and then pulled the rope and it had gas spewing forth like a fountain out the spark plug hole for a moment. After this episode I was replacing bad fuel system components and when I finished that work, the decompression has no longer worked. I don't see any correlation there. Something stopped working inside on or by the cam.    

thank you

Posted

You wouldn't think the flooding etc would cause a problem. I'm pretty sure that the decompressor will operate like most do and not force the valve open, but only hold it open after the cam has opened it. Hard to see how that could damage anything.

Good luck in there. They are good to work on. I'd recommend you get some "loctite master gasket" to reseal the top up..  Brilliant stuff.. Way better than silicon or anything else on the market. Clean, economic, doesn't block selves or filters, never leaks, doesn't harden till the parts are clamped together so you don't need to rush, and if you have it apart again the old stuff is easy to get off.

Posted

Ha.. You're the first fellah that's heard of the company..

They sell it in different packaging but i always get the syringe, it's about thirty or fifty mills, but goes a long way. It's said to fill gaps up to 0.013'. I'd believe it.

Posted

I agree Loctite is the best, been using in for 20+ years. Although i cannot find the Master Gasket loctite locally that you mentioned Mech, maybe its just packing differences. The same number it just doesnt say master gasket on the package.

Posted

If it's the 518 it will be the stuff Gw. They sell other "master gasket", products with different numbers, and there are other brands as well but the others aren't always as heatproof.

 

Posted

If you buy the syringe, the actual plastic syringe not the squeeze tube they describe as a syringe, then the number's in smallish print just above the Master Gasket on the label. 

Posted

Hmm.. When I do a google of "loctite master gasket", it comes up straight away with pictures of the syringe, and the squeezy, but I notice they are all kiwi sites. So I checked the legendary Walmart, Loctite.com, and one other company, and they all only had the squeezy, and a gun cartridge, and big and small amounts in all sorts of containers and dispensers, but no actual syringe.

Another really great feature of Loctite Master Gasket though is... it never hardens in the tube. I've had old part tubes for literally years, that I use to lock nuts these days because it's thickened some, but it would still be just fine for an engine.

So buying a big pot is perhaps cheaper...

Posted

Hmm.. So I hate a mystery and so I did some more searches and the only place that had it in a syringe (Hisco.com), described it as 518 flange sealant, but the blurb didn't mention it being high temp or anything much at all, and it's label was different.

If you google loctite master gasket, with or without 518, and, add nz to the search, you will see the syringes we've always got over here.. 

Some only stand temps of about 118 C or so but the stuff I get does about 150 C.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By kevinohio
      Does anyone have a copie of the owners/operators manual.the basic book that comes with the atv.i need the smaller one.i have the great big repair manual one.
    • By buriedpast
      As the title says, I've got a crankcase full of fuel / oil to deal with and figure I'll just start from the top and move through the system.  Going to start with a rebuild of the petcock and then the carb if the problem isn't fixed with the petcock rebuild.  I figure I'll go with a Moose kit unless others with experience recommend another brand (All Balls, etc.)
      Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance.
    • By rjsummer
      Just picked up an 84 LT185 ATV, I understand there was an accessory add  on that gave it electric start, anyone have any info about that kit? 
    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
    • By Jdeaton011989
      Hi all. I have a timberwolf 250 2nd that will not start.. I thought it was out of time bc the guy I got it from said it just quit on him. The tensioner had a nut welded to it and it was like2 teeth off. I installed new tensioner and chain and it still will not start. It has fire and it will not hit off brake cleaner. It has compression. Haven't put a gauge but I'm sure it will crank and run with what it has. I double checked my work and it's still in time. Spot on. Both valves move. I'm about to put a feeler gauge on them and I'll cone back but other than that any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...