2008 kazuma 800 4x4. i need wiring help. no spark
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By HeWasRidinDirty
I rebuilt the carb on said machine. When I hook up the auxiliary gas tank it runs fine and everything is cool. When I put the fuel tank on and hooked up the lines, it completely flooded the cylinder and even about an inch of fuel in the air box. I'm pretty sure that it comes from the little hose on the petcock and hooks to the top of the carb. WTH is that even for? I mean the thing runs fine on the auxiliary tank, so idk And on the petcock when it's in the "on" position, I get no fuel. The petcock from the bike I took it apart and checked out how it operates. The sharpie marks indicate how it really works. Now the other petcock w/o the sharpie marks is an old one that was leaking that I removed from a Polaris quad. It's exactly the same thing, except the small hose and nipple have been removed. I'm so confused, LOL
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By jeffrocdx
I'm working on a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 400 with shift indicator problems. The indicator panel only will show Neutral and Reverse. If it's in High or Low, the indicator will show "R".
I have replaced the three position indicator switch on the transmission. There is also a two position switch on the tranny that I didn't replace. If anyone is familiar with this problem, please let me know what I need to do. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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By Gwbarm
I have had my new tires for a while, chronic procrastinator, decided it was time to get them mounted up. Against my better judgement i decided to mount them myself.
I got one of these Harbour Freight manual tire mounting machines, mounted it to a half pallet to make it more portable. Very impressed with the quality and amount of tools that came in the kit for a low price point.
The bead breaker worked very well, i wasnt sure it would be able to do it, i think these tires are original to the bike its a 2004, but with enough lube, mothers concentrated car wash straight, it finally broke the bead.
Tire fit very well on the machine and it tightened down good.
The extra long pry bar that came with the kit worked well to get the outer rim of tire off.
Half way there, half way there no issues, then it got serious.
I pulled and i tugged had 3 prybars working this thing and it wouldnt budge no matter what i tried it would not come off, until i got the grinder out and cut it off. Im sure most of you see what the problem was. I didnt notice it until i was too far in to change direction. On this particular rim the tire goes on and off from the back side of the rim, not the front like what i was used to. The back side is the low side. Plus to add to the problem tires were old and not very strechy, i have a greater respect for how well these ATV tires are made with well reinforced sidewalls, even with the grinder it took me a minute or two to cut through it, of couse i was being very careful not to nick the rim. Anyway the HF machine worked well and the tire is off, hopefully the next one wont be this bad. Lot of hard work for an old man, glad i can still do it.
Now for the fun part , cleaning up the old rim, years of stop leak and slime caked on the inside, that stuff dries hard, the little Milwaukee is good for getting into tight spaces, but wasnt quite up to the task.
Needed a few more RPMs.
Old rattlecan paint just flaked right off. Now time to decide on a new color, tired of the boring gray. More to come!
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By alexwv1863
I'm currently working on an 04 Suzuki Eiger 400 and ran into some issues. Main issue being it's really hard to start. Once I get it started, it runs bad. Sounds like it's missing, which I'm pretty sure is an idle issue. It's not my 4 wheeler. I'm working on it for a buddy. Someone started working on the original carb and 2 jets were missing when I got it to work on.
So, I ordered a new carb. To get it to run, I had to adjust the throttle screw on the handle bar almost all of the way out. Even doing that, it still sounds like it's bogging down and missing.
I did put a gas filter on it, which I'm questioning whether or not that's the issue and it's not getting enough gas like it should. The petcock only has an On, Reserve, and Prime option. It also has 2 ports. I guess I have the hoses hooked up right. There's no way to shut the gas off completely, and also it looks like there's no gas getting thru unless I run it on Prime. Reserve drips gas. I'm going to take it apart today and clean it. I'm also going to take the jets I need out of the new carb and put in the old one.
I don't know what all this person did you the 4 wheeler before I got it. There's odds and ends missing that I've noticed so far. What else can I try or look for? What could be the gas issue with the carb and petcock? The carb was completely off the bike except hanging onto the throttle cable. The diagram I found for the carb doesn't help me with hose placements. Any help, or questions would be appreciated. I can attach photos if it would be of help.
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By BruinBeater
Got asked to take a look at a 2014 Can Am Commander 1000 for an overheating issue. Owner says he's been having issues for awhile. Had another guy put a new electric fan on it and its still overheating.
I take it for a test drive. 1 mile on asphalt and temp gauge is pegged and machine is telling me its overheating.
Looking at it in the garage and I see, it low on coolant. As in, the overflow tank is empty. Can't see it in the radiator. Not sure how far down it is.
Took out the seat, and center console. I see coolant on top of both cylinders. Its leaking a tiny bit from each coolant outlet on top of the cylinders. They are plastic with a metal bleeder screw. Both leaking from the bleeder screw. Tried to tighten them but I can tell they are stripped out.
Bought some aftermarket coolant outlets from Quad Logic. They came with a new bleeder screw and crush washer for the screw. They did not come with a new gasket.
Bought a new OEM thermostat. Did it really need one? I'm not sure, I didn't bother to test it. Its not a cheap part but not terribly expensive either. These commanders are a pain to bleed all the air out of the cooling system, I only wanted to do it once.
Remove the plastic screen from the firewall so I can access the thermostat. Cut all the old hose clamps off (OEM Crimps) Replace the T-stat. Install new hose clamps. Install new coolant outlets on top of both cylinders.
Now its time to bleed the system. I have a "NO SPILL FUNNEL" Remove the radiator cap and attach this in its place. Fill the funnel up about half way and let it sit for awhile with the bleed screws open. Once I see fluid out the bleeders, I close them. Squeeze the hoses a bit and watch the air bubble come up into the funnel. Once the system is full, I drive it to a hill in the yard and put 1 car ramp in the middle of the hill. I drive up the car ramp with the left/drivers side tire. This puts the radiator cap up nice and high. Let the engine run for as long as it takes to get the air out. I keep the full at least 1/3 full. I rev the engine to 4K rpm. I jump out and squeeze the upper rad hose, the lower rad hose, and both lines to the cab heater (aftermaket) I keep doing this till I no longer see air. I also crack the bleed screws loose on top of the heads during this time. The fan cycled on and off multiple times. It took approximately 45 minutes till no more bubbles were coming up into the funnel.
Remove the no spill funnel and top off the recovery tank with the coolant trapped in the funnel. Took it for test run up the road and hit a little trail. Outside air temp was 92F and 90% + humidity. Machine never came close to overheating on the ride.
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