Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
Well im at it again, took about an hour drive Saturday and made a deal on this old honda.
Might be restorable. Tires pretty dry rotted, mastercylinder broken glass and probably full of water.
Handed me the carb he rebuilt (oh no) He said ran about 6 months ago but when we pushed out of his
field there was a tree growning through it. See pic. Missing some parts, also missing the intake. Motor is not
locked up, Has piece of plastic crammed in the head since no carb there for months. Brake cables bad, etc. Thats
part of the fun. Im sure I will be posting some questions later for you all. Stay tuned Az.
By Dra O
I likely just kissed $200 goodbye buying a Honda 250 this AM from Craiglist. We'll see.
- VIN number is off the front frame; one VIN site calls it a 2008 Honda 250 TRX - this baby ain't a 2008; other VIN sites list the VIN as invalid; might be that the owner (a shady dude from a shadier side of my home town) put a 2008 front end on it? No idea.
- a HUGE hint (hint #1) would've been that there's no key to start the machine - gotta use a screwdriver. I'll likely be visited by police sometime in the near future.
- owner acquired from another man - owner showed me video of him riding it this summer on a major interstate while very drunk (hint #2) - the machine sounded good in the video
- no front headlight; owner said machine has new carb - looks Chinese - he didn't have original carb; air intake box is wide open - no long plastic connection sleeve leading into air box like on my 99 king quad; no visible oil leaks; oil is dark; air filter clean; decent plastic; no front right brake apparatus; left brake handle very loose and rear brake doesn't work
- battery at this point is good; manipulate the ignition switch w/ screw driver and the green neutral light shines (this has since stopped working)
- it's a kick start machine: when I kicked it down (hint #3), the compression sounded normal, almost "tight" but at the end of the cycle, there was some awful grinding noise coming from what sounded like either inside the engine or the starter area; I let it settle, kicked it again, same noise heard at the end of cycle; owner said it likely needs a new starter - I only hope it's this simple
pictures attached - the throttle cable / zip tie pic is my favorite - but it works! it was CRAZY dirty prior to pressure washing - and the water in air box is likely secondary to the power wash - no water was in it when purchased
gotta few things to complete on the king quad - will be changing motor/gear oil in honda and getting new oil filter over time - talk soon - hope y'all had a great Christmas
By Barry Troxtell
I have a 2005 Sportsman 500, Instrument cluster will not illuminate, hi/lo beams work though. Any tips or troubleshooting info is greatly appreciated!
By Nate Hanson
I am a new atv owner...I bought a used atv this summer (pretty sure it is a wolverine but reg card from last owner didnt actually say that so idk for sure). It ran great for most the summer and early fall but one day I tried starting it and it turned over a while without starting and then suddenly it quit turning over at all. No click or anything.
I charged battery and light turns on showing neutral and heatlight can go on.
A few other things that may be pertinent: The pull start is missing, I have a fluke multimeter but not many other advanced tools (or relevant experience), there is an extra aftermarket led light attached to front but it doesnt work either... never looked into why since I didnt need it.
I looked for a fuse box and didnt find one.
Please recommend some easier things to try first as I really want to avoid taking it in if I can (having one income and 4 kids can keep out extra cash, plus I want to learn). Pictures would be awesome if possible. Thanks!
Similar Tagged Content
'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
New member here. This looks like a great website.
I've got a problem with my 2002 Bear Tracker. It's a long story so I'll try and cut it down.
I bought the Bear Tracker for cheap because it didn't run. I was told one of the valve rocker arms was broken. I pulled on the starter and it turned so I decided to purchase it. It was true, one of the rocker arms was broken however, after removing the head I saw the piston was at the top of the cylinder. I pulled the cylinder and the piston came off with it. The piston was a mess and had broken away from the connecting rod. Parts of the piston had fallen into the lower unit. I pulled the engine out and started the dis-assembly. It was all pulled apart but I couldn't pull the crank shaft apart without the proper tools. I also didn't like the idea of removing all the bearing pressed into the casings. I found a lower unit on Ebay for cheap but it was missing both sides. I bought it and after it arrived I took the entire mess down to the Yamaha dealer and payed them to reassemble it with a new piston and rings and a fixed cylinder. After getting it home and reinstalling it, it ran great. I was very happy however after it warmed up this clanking noise showed up. I took the bike back and the dealership went through what they had done but couldn't find anything wrong with what they did. This leads me to believe that there was something wrong with the lower unit part that I bought off Ebay. So, finally, my question is, what is in the central part of the lower unit that would make a clanking noise when warmed up. I can't see why a bearing would make a clanking noise or anything else in that area. Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Thank you, thank you thank you. Ps... believe it or not, this is the cut down version.
The Southern Four Wheel Drive Association (SFWDA), the BlueRibbon Coalition (BRC) and United Four Wheel Drive Associations (UFWDA) expressed disappointment today in the Forest Service decision to implement the emergency closure of the Upper Tellico OHV trails on April 1, pending review of the many substantive comments made by OHV enthusiasts.
Gary Parsons, President of SFWDA, said, "We are very disappointed in the Forest Service decision to close the Upper Tellico OHV trails. In formal comments made to the Forest Service, the OHV community and other interested parties clearly demonstrated that such a closure has no scientific basis. Substantive comments provided to the Forest Service included findings of an independent study completed by Caliber Engineering and the recommendations from a report completed by the Forest Service's own Trails Unlimited Team. This is a bad decision and we are left with no other alternative but to pursue legal options."
Carla Boucher, legal counsel for the United Four Wheel Drive Associations, stated, "The Forest Service has failed to make the case with regard to adverse effects and resource damage. There is no immediate threat to public health, safety, or other requisite finding required by such an order. Water quality standards cited by the Forest Supervisor as the basis for such an order are not being exceeded." Boucher added, "In making this decision, the Forest Service must be prepared to explain why similar findings have not been made in the decades of greater environmental impact and they simply have not done that."
Greg Mumm, BRC's Executive Director, stated, "Implementing this closure order threatens the integrity of the ongoing planning process in which the interested public and our federal government have collectively invested significant time and resources."
Mumm concluded, "The economic impact of this closure will be devastating to the area and comes at a time when the current administration is calling for more jobs, economic development, and healthy outdoor recreation. It makes no sense."
# # #
The BlueRibbon Coalition is a national recreation group that champions responsible use of recreation, and encourages individual environmental stewardship. It represents over 10,000 individual members and 1,200 organization and business members, for a combined total of over 600,000 recreationists nationwide. 1-800-258-3742. BlueRibbon Coalition: Preserving your recreational access to public lands.
United Four Wheel Drive Associations is an international organization comprised of four wheel drive enthusiasts, clubs, associations, and businesses dedicated to providing community services around the world, education in responsible land use and safe vehicle operation, and protection of our natural resources through conservation practices. 1-800-448-3932. United Four Wheel Drive Associations Official Site - United Online - An International Organization
Southern Four Wheel Drive Association (SFWDA) was founded in 1987 to promote responsible land use and to keep public lands accessible for motorized recreation. For more information on the activities and accomplishments of Southern Four Wheel Drive Association, please visit Southern 4WD Association or contact us at 1483 N. Mt. Juliet Road, PMB # 222, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.