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My 2013 Honda 420 occasionally won't go into reverse. I don't think it is in the transmission as it does not make a click or noise. I think it is in the lockout. Someone told me when I ride near the ocean the salt can get on something. Any ideas?
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Would it be possible but also not to complicated to be able to put a crf50 motor in a cr85 frame? Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
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Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
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Anyone know a place i can find a used stock pipe for a 400ex? I would love to find a take off
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Am i better off to just replace the bearings or buy the whole carrier?
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'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
New member here. This looks like a great website.
I've got a problem with my 2002 Bear Tracker. It's a long story so I'll try and cut it down.
I bought the Bear Tracker for cheap because it didn't run. I was told one of the valve rocker arms was broken. I pulled on the starter and it turned so I decided to purchase it. It was true, one of the rocker arms was broken however, after removing the head I saw the piston was at the top of the cylinder. I pulled the cylinder and the piston came off with it. The piston was a mess and had broken away from the connecting rod. Parts of the piston had fallen into the lower unit. I pulled the engine out and started the dis-assembly. It was all pulled apart but I couldn't pull the crank shaft apart without the proper tools. I also didn't like the idea of removing all the bearing pressed into the casings. I found a lower unit on Ebay for cheap but it was missing both sides. I bought it and after it arrived I took the entire mess down to the Yamaha dealer and payed them to reassemble it with a new piston and rings and a fixed cylinder. After getting it home and reinstalling it, it ran great. I was very happy however after it warmed up this clanking noise showed up. I took the bike back and the dealership went through what they had done but couldn't find anything wrong with what they did. This leads me to believe that there was something wrong with the lower unit part that I bought off Ebay. So, finally, my question is, what is in the central part of the lower unit that would make a clanking noise when warmed up. I can't see why a bearing would make a clanking noise or anything else in that area. Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Thank you, thank you thank you. Ps... believe it or not, this is the cut down version.
The Southern Four Wheel Drive Association (SFWDA), the BlueRibbon Coalition (BRC) and United Four Wheel Drive Associations (UFWDA) expressed disappointment today in the Forest Service decision to implement the emergency closure of the Upper Tellico OHV trails on April 1, pending review of the many substantive comments made by OHV enthusiasts.
Gary Parsons, President of SFWDA, said, "We are very disappointed in the Forest Service decision to close the Upper Tellico OHV trails. In formal comments made to the Forest Service, the OHV community and other interested parties clearly demonstrated that such a closure has no scientific basis. Substantive comments provided to the Forest Service included findings of an independent study completed by Caliber Engineering and the recommendations from a report completed by the Forest Service's own Trails Unlimited Team. This is a bad decision and we are left with no other alternative but to pursue legal options."
Carla Boucher, legal counsel for the United Four Wheel Drive Associations, stated, "The Forest Service has failed to make the case with regard to adverse effects and resource damage. There is no immediate threat to public health, safety, or other requisite finding required by such an order. Water quality standards cited by the Forest Supervisor as the basis for such an order are not being exceeded." Boucher added, "In making this decision, the Forest Service must be prepared to explain why similar findings have not been made in the decades of greater environmental impact and they simply have not done that."
Greg Mumm, BRC's Executive Director, stated, "Implementing this closure order threatens the integrity of the ongoing planning process in which the interested public and our federal government have collectively invested significant time and resources."
Mumm concluded, "The economic impact of this closure will be devastating to the area and comes at a time when the current administration is calling for more jobs, economic development, and healthy outdoor recreation. It makes no sense."
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The BlueRibbon Coalition is a national recreation group that champions responsible use of recreation, and encourages individual environmental stewardship. It represents over 10,000 individual members and 1,200 organization and business members, for a combined total of over 600,000 recreationists nationwide. 1-800-258-3742. BlueRibbon Coalition: Preserving your recreational access to public lands.
United Four Wheel Drive Associations is an international organization comprised of four wheel drive enthusiasts, clubs, associations, and businesses dedicated to providing community services around the world, education in responsible land use and safe vehicle operation, and protection of our natural resources through conservation practices. 1-800-448-3932. United Four Wheel Drive Associations Official Site - United Online - An International Organization
Southern Four Wheel Drive Association (SFWDA) was founded in 1987 to promote responsible land use and to keep public lands accessible for motorized recreation. For more information on the activities and accomplishments of Southern Four Wheel Drive Association, please visit Southern 4WD Association or contact us at 1483 N. Mt. Juliet Road, PMB # 222, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122
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