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1991 Honda 250 X VS 2014 Honda 400 X
So I Wanted to See which one of the Machines was Faster,Quicker on the 50"
I just so happened to have footage from both of them from not to long ago.
Just so you all know, this was an open Trail...meaning at anytime someone could of been coming in hot at me!
...so before watching,Chose which one you think will be the quicker of the Two.....then watch and see.
By John Victor
My father-in-law gave my boy a 1999 350 Big Bear. It's been sitting in a barn for a bunch of years. It runs great! My boy has been riding a couple weeks now and it has developed a squeal coming from the front end when you get off the gas at speed. No noise during acceleration. At first I thought brakes. I took it for a ride and I don't think it is the brakes. I feel it is the front prop shaft U-joints, front differential or one/both axles. I pulled the fill plug on the differential and I can't find anywhere how much gear oil should be in there. My gut says up to the fill opening. It doesn't have a manual. It's wet in there, just don't see any gear oil.
#1 Should I fill the differential with gear oil up to the fill opening?
#2 How do I check or know if the u-joints are bad? That looks like a "Big Bear" of a job if they don't need to be replaced.
#3 What else could it be? I don't think it is the front bearings. I jacked the front wheels off ground and no play in the right wheel. Very little play in the left wheel, looks like the lower control bushing is where that play is coming from. The rubber CV boots look original but all still intact. Wheels spin easily without any noise.
Thanks for any help!
Well, after tinkering on my last project (a 2003 Kawasaki Bayou 300) I ended up putting it on Craigslist and it sold within a day. Then about two weeks after that a 2005 Mule 610 with 40 hours on it popped up, for about 1/3 the cost I usually see them, so... I didn't have much of a choice.
The Mule's first issue was idle, it would die if you didn't keep a light toe on the accelerator. Turns out the idle screw had never been touched, five minutes after I got it off the trailer it idles just fine. 🤦♂️
As of today, it runs great on flat land. And it climbs like, well, a mule.
But it has one issue. Sometimes uphill it will suddenly lose power like the fuel isn't getting delivered. It never dies completely, it just sputters and won't go until you let off the gas pedal and let it recover. It tends to do it more with 2 passengers or some cargo and wide open throttle BUT occasionally will do it at only partial throttle and with just me on it.
I read a lot about how the fuel pumps on these Mule 610's suck, so I put in a new one today and a new fuel filter. It still had the same symptoms immediately after, so that was $40 wasted.
Any ideas? I keep seeing folks saying they replaced the pulse pump with an electric fuel pump. This thread said so, and it gets brought up in this thread and also here. In each case somebody says "12v fuel pump solved my problem!" and then they promptly disappear from ever posting again, lol.
I have some questions for y'all:
1. Do you think fuel delivery is the problem? I have a hunch that it is, given the hill + throttle symptoms.
2. The pulse pump on the Mule is located ABOVE the gas tank. Can an electric fuel pump pull fuel UP in this manner?
3. What would I do with the spare line that goes from the fuel pump to the crankcase? Every electrical pump is just in & out, they don't have that third line...
4. Any idea what kind of flow rate I would need or which pump works for this application?
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'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
New member here. This looks like a great website.
I've got a problem with my 2002 Bear Tracker. It's a long story so I'll try and cut it down.
I bought the Bear Tracker for cheap because it didn't run. I was told one of the valve rocker arms was broken. I pulled on the starter and it turned so I decided to purchase it. It was true, one of the rocker arms was broken however, after removing the head I saw the piston was at the top of the cylinder. I pulled the cylinder and the piston came off with it. The piston was a mess and had broken away from the connecting rod. Parts of the piston had fallen into the lower unit. I pulled the engine out and started the dis-assembly. It was all pulled apart but I couldn't pull the crank shaft apart without the proper tools. I also didn't like the idea of removing all the bearing pressed into the casings. I found a lower unit on Ebay for cheap but it was missing both sides. I bought it and after it arrived I took the entire mess down to the Yamaha dealer and payed them to reassemble it with a new piston and rings and a fixed cylinder. After getting it home and reinstalling it, it ran great. I was very happy however after it warmed up this clanking noise showed up. I took the bike back and the dealership went through what they had done but couldn't find anything wrong with what they did. This leads me to believe that there was something wrong with the lower unit part that I bought off Ebay. So, finally, my question is, what is in the central part of the lower unit that would make a clanking noise when warmed up. I can't see why a bearing would make a clanking noise or anything else in that area. Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Thank you, thank you thank you. Ps... believe it or not, this is the cut down version.
The Southern Four Wheel Drive Association (SFWDA), the BlueRibbon Coalition (BRC) and United Four Wheel Drive Associations (UFWDA) expressed disappointment today in the Forest Service decision to implement the emergency closure of the Upper Tellico OHV trails on April 1, pending review of the many substantive comments made by OHV enthusiasts.
Gary Parsons, President of SFWDA, said, "We are very disappointed in the Forest Service decision to close the Upper Tellico OHV trails. In formal comments made to the Forest Service, the OHV community and other interested parties clearly demonstrated that such a closure has no scientific basis. Substantive comments provided to the Forest Service included findings of an independent study completed by Caliber Engineering and the recommendations from a report completed by the Forest Service's own Trails Unlimited Team. This is a bad decision and we are left with no other alternative but to pursue legal options."
Carla Boucher, legal counsel for the United Four Wheel Drive Associations, stated, "The Forest Service has failed to make the case with regard to adverse effects and resource damage. There is no immediate threat to public health, safety, or other requisite finding required by such an order. Water quality standards cited by the Forest Supervisor as the basis for such an order are not being exceeded." Boucher added, "In making this decision, the Forest Service must be prepared to explain why similar findings have not been made in the decades of greater environmental impact and they simply have not done that."
Greg Mumm, BRC's Executive Director, stated, "Implementing this closure order threatens the integrity of the ongoing planning process in which the interested public and our federal government have collectively invested significant time and resources."
Mumm concluded, "The economic impact of this closure will be devastating to the area and comes at a time when the current administration is calling for more jobs, economic development, and healthy outdoor recreation. It makes no sense."
# # #
The BlueRibbon Coalition is a national recreation group that champions responsible use of recreation, and encourages individual environmental stewardship. It represents over 10,000 individual members and 1,200 organization and business members, for a combined total of over 600,000 recreationists nationwide. 1-800-258-3742. BlueRibbon Coalition: Preserving your recreational access to public lands.
United Four Wheel Drive Associations is an international organization comprised of four wheel drive enthusiasts, clubs, associations, and businesses dedicated to providing community services around the world, education in responsible land use and safe vehicle operation, and protection of our natural resources through conservation practices. 1-800-448-3932. United Four Wheel Drive Associations Official Site - United Online - An International Organization
Southern Four Wheel Drive Association (SFWDA) was founded in 1987 to promote responsible land use and to keep public lands accessible for motorized recreation. For more information on the activities and accomplishments of Southern Four Wheel Drive Association, please visit Southern 4WD Association or contact us at 1483 N. Mt. Juliet Road, PMB # 222, Mt. Juliet, TN 37122
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