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Similar Forum Topics
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By Brantley11
Hey everybody,
My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED!
This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds.
Here is where we sit:
Brand New Fully Charged battery
Carb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner
New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version)
Cleaned out petcock and gas tank
New 93 Non Ethanol Gas
New Spark Plug
It gets a spark through the spark test light every time
Bluish white spark
When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head
Good Compression
Here are the readings:
Pickup Coil 519 Ohms (range 459-561)
Charging Coil 266 Ohms (range 270-330)
Lighting Coil 0.700 (range 0.702-0.858)
Spark plug Cap 10.58 Ohms (10kohms
Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms)
Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.48 kOhms)
Would y'all think stator and pick up coil, rectifier or CDI are the culprit?
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By kiriyaaoi
Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves. From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match. I have no idea what this would cost.
2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
#1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option. However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number, 11100-19B10, instead of 11100-19B01 like for all earlier models. What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years. Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical. Would those work as well possibly? I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on. Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
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By p5200
I'm having trouble identifying Mark. I know where the mark is in the Stator cover. Is the T at about, the 12 o'clock position in this photo? I've got to buy another Stator cover as the one I have has a hole at the bottom of it. Due to failing eyes, I have a lot of trouble anymore. Thanks! 🙂
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By Gwbarm
My Yamaha Big Bear shifts through all the gears good, goes into reverse smoothly, but when i go to get out of reverse it takes a lot of effort to get it back to first gear, and even then it does not go very smoothly, have to pull up on the pedal really hard, anyone else ever had this problem. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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By drobbie98
Hey all, Thanks for having me in the forum. I just purchased my first ATV and am stoked to understand more about it.
The first stupid question will be, what is everyone's maintenance schedule? DO yo follow the recommended intervals or build one yourself based on the machine.
Thanks in advance.
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