-
Similar Forum Topics
-
By McG75
Hello I’m new here and was wondering is anyone knew of good replacement part numbers for front struts and rear shocks for this atv? I think I’ve found a new rear shock, that looks like the original but there is no dimensions or anything and was wondering if there are any afterMarket new front struts available. I know it’s a long shot but any help would be appreciated.
-
-
By skittle021
So I've got a Hisun 550 (clone of a Yamaha Rhino 660) that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
Photos:
-
By 97kingquad
I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable.
So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase.
I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner.
I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine. I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket)
So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that.
So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is?
-
By 97kingquad
Ok so I'm back lol
I got two arctic cat 300s that I am either trying to make one of the two or if possible I'll get them both running. I have a good start but I am struggling to find a wiring diagram that actually shows the connections.
Both bikes were tore apart and some wiring was spliced and all screwed up so I have been tracing wires and redoing the connections.
On one bike I have a neutral light and it will let the use e start to turn starter motor, thing is on that bike the motor is stuck engaged so when I pull the pull cord it's turning the starter motor as well.
On the other bike it is free and works as it should but I can't get the neutral indicator light to come on. Or any for that matter. I have been going through the fuses which all have power as well as the e start switch.
I'm wondering if anyone has come across some similar issues, I am checking the neutral switch tonight, I have been checking the wiring and comparing it to the bike that is working (in that sense) but both bikes are missing some things
I'm wondering if it is a better option to pull the good motor out and rebuild it then put it into the bike with the indicator lights working. But on that bike all the bushings and linkages are toast so there's a lot of work to either bike. I'd like to at least get the engine to fire up before I invest too much energy into swapping motors.
So if anyone has some info or can send me in the direction of a good wiring diagram it would be much appreciated. Thanks
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.