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I picked up my first ever ATV on friday. It's an 89 Big Bear. It has some cosmetic issues, but seems pretty decent mechanically. I did have trouble getting the idle tuned to the book spec of 1,300 - 1,500 RPM. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out. Somebody must have lost the spring for the pilot screw, as it's no longer in the carb. Also, I have a dual cable carb, I noticed all the IPL's show the single cable carb, but I see others on youtube had dual cable carbs. When I would adjust my idle speed screw, nothing would happen. I bottomed it out and it didn't seem to make much if any difference. When i pulled the carb apart I saw the screw doesn't even touch the linkage, it's too short. Do the two different versions have different length carb screws? I'm wondering if somebody lost the ordinal, replaced it with the IPL number for a single cable carb which is shorter, and gave up on getting the ATV to idle. If you hold the throttle just a bit to get it to the RPM range listed above, it "idles" great. Any ideas? Or any links to the dual cable IPL?
Have you guys have good luck with the aftermarket intake boots? Or is this a buy once, cry once deal? I'm guessing the OEM units last longer, but there is a huge price difference. If you have had good luck with aftermarket, where did you get it? My current boot doesn't seem to have any air leaks, but it's encased in JB weld...
I'm getting a 9th digit check sum error on the ATV when I put the VIN in. Has anybody seen this before on a Yamaha? The VIN number looks original as well as the paint around it.
So I rode my 2018 Kodiak 450 through a bit of a puddle and got water in the ultramatic casing... drained the water but the quad still fails to reach top speed so I figured it's time to pull the sheaves and clean them out.
When I pulled the primary sheave off, this rubber piece fell out that I can't find anywhere on the parts diagram nor where it might have come from. Any ideas?
Note, it looks worn down on an angle, so wherever it came from it might have been jammed in the sheave and that could have been what was preventing me from reaching higher speeds.
Any help is appreciated.
I have a 2018 Kodiak 450 EPS that just this past Sunday I ran through a bit of water.
After the puddle the belt was slipping, so I pulled over and drained the ultramatic housing and the slipping problem went away. This was all in L and everything seemed to work fine. Later when I got on a road, I put it in H, but it still rode like it was in low... i.e. I had to rev it up a lot just to get to 30mph.
When at home I pulled the ultramatic cover off to inspect, and it looked okay in there. Not much dirt, belt and everything are clean, but when I rev up the engine (with cage in place, of course), the belt doesn't get to the top of the clutch (maxes out about an inch or 1.5" from top of clutch, so maybe it is normal).. I put it back together but same thing... H seems like L still.
Do you think the clutch needs to be further dissected for cleaning, or could this be an issue with the gear selector?
Looking for Yamaha ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Yamaha ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Yamaha ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.
The following Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:
NICB Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck
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By Chayse Hill
I have a 2003 LTZ 400 that i bought a few days ago. The quad was running fine until last night. I let my brother ride it down the street and back and i didnt notice anything etong with bike. Then my neighbors friend came over and said "can i ride it?" I said "sure" so he ripped it down the road all fine and when he got back it died right in front of us. My brother said it was dieing on him also. He also said that he wasnt using the clutch to shift. I told him he was an idiot. Im throwing that in there incase that caused a problem as well. But today i go to check it to make sure its getting fuel which it is and replaced the spark plug incase it wasnt getting spark but it is. So i started it and it was having a problem starting then i got started and was reving at idle high. So i took it around the block and it died on me a little bit down, so i try to restart it and it started so i kicked it into 1st and it kinda launched on me and started going with the clutch all the way in. Then it died right after and wasnt running right during that process and was idleing all over the place and just died and now i cant get it started it again. Before it would start without the choke or priming it. It would start real quick now i cant figure if it needs to be rejetted or something else. Air filter looks clean also. But any help would be gratelly appreciated!
By Guest Fox300exchic
The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
Hi all, I try to find this manual in the threads but you have a lot of stock here
Cannot find this particular manual.
I found it for YFM200 but not sure if they are the same.
Thanks if you could help me with that.
Im new here so if I did something wrong, please tell me.
i was wondering if i could get some help. i been trying to locate where the fuel and air adjustment screws are located on my 95 kodiak 400. i think i found the fuel screw.. i know where the throttle adjuster is but i cant find the air screw. or is there an air adjustment on these carbs?
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