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By Susan Makowski-DeGraw
My quad runs, it starts up runs for about 10 minutes and then it dies if you let it sit for 10 minutes it’ll start back up ride for another 10 minutes and then die again, trying to figure out why it keeps stalling
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So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
By Wayne Gilroy
I currently have a 2015 Polaris 570SP that I bought new and have been riding for for over 20 years.
I don't do much trail riding or mudding like I used to when I was younger. I mostly use it around my 25 acres in the country as a utility vehicle (moving trailers, working on hunting stands and gathering firewood in the woods). The work in the woods sometimes tests the stock tires, but most the time I'm on high and dry ground. And every once in a while the wife and I will get together with some other atv friends and go for a day of trail riding. Maybe 2 or 3 times a year give or take.
I use the ATV year round, but here in Northwest Wisconsin, the snow depth makes it prohibitive to getting out in the woods or out on the frozen lake.
I don't want a snowmobile (they are such a bitch to get un-stuck in deep snow - I know because I have a friends 500lb sled stuck in 3 feet of snow and slush on the lake right now).
So I'm thinking about getting a tracked machine. I've never driven one, but have watched several youtube videos that are quite impressive. Especially for snow.
I have seen some systems are geared for snow only, and some that are all terrain. I would prefer to use a track system year round unless someone can convince me it's better to have tracks just for snow and wheels the rest of the year.
My questions are:
1. Between a Can Am 1000 and a Polaris 1000 - which one is better for tracks? I'm familiar with the Polaris AWD system and like it. I've "heard" that Can Am's 4wd isn't quite as good, but maybe that's not true. I'm open to other machines but these two are just my preference.
2. Tracks - all season vs winter.
How much of a pain in the ass is it to change from tracks to wheels to tracks each year? Are the snow only tracks worth it vs year round tracks? Can you comfortably trail ride (non winter) with tracks? I'm talking long, boring, well groomed, straight, flat dirt trails. At the end of 50 miles am I going to wish I had put the wheels on? How long are tracks good for? My machine will be garage stored and my annual mileage/hours will be minimal. Are there any things to be aware of in terms of warranty violation if I were to buy a new machine and put tracks on it myself vs the dealer? Any issues with stock axles, clutch or other components? Thanks in advance!
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
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