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2001 Honda Rancher 350 ES ( St Louis)


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    • By Fish0rDie
      Well yall, it's been a while. Work has absolutely annihilated me for the past 5-6 months, and ive had bare minimum time to work on this project. Thank you to those that helped previously during the engine rebuild, but now were on to the task of wiring, and let me tell you besides the plugs on the wiring, I am almost completely lost. Bought an ebay harness, and none of the colors line up to what i have seen on any manuals. Its all the 97-01 electronics i believe. Ill post some pictures below of the mess I'm working with. Emphasis on "mess." A lot of the wires had to be extended since the harness was made for an atv and not a buggy. The colors are a little wonky, but I was using what I had, and they were mostly for just extending the plugs, so the colors match on either end. A buddy of mine has been helping me, and we are just at a loss. Looking for general guidance or any wire specific help you could give us. Not even sure if some of the single wires are plugged in right, and we dont have a "lever switch" wondering if thats just for the brake, because the master cylinder has two screws. I suppose a + and -... We also have what I believe are the reverse and neutral sensors to plug in (the only two sensors on the engine)
      P.S. peep the custom airbox i 3d printed to utilize a lawn mower filter and 2x2 coupling from lowes 
      If you need better pictures of anything, let me know, It's kind of hard to get pictures of this rats nest.
      Wires that are not connected to anything
      4th picture black wire
      5th picture blue wire w white stripe left/solid blue on right
      6th picture what I believe to be the lever switch from pictures I saw on ebay
      7th picture is two black wires coming out of the harness. One we have running back to a black with white stripe that comes out of a different place in the harness. The other that had an end to match the single wire coming from the handle bar switch. Single handle bar wire has a white stripe, so I may try to switch those around if the ends permit it.
      I know it just looks god awful, but i really do think we are close, and the idea is to figure out whats going where, then figure out how to make it look better, so bear with me haha. Any help is appreciated. Just finished a little go kart for my wife with a predator 212, and gosh do I envy that wiring (there is none😂)
       












    • By Mhatayas
      Recently got a 1985 suzuki lt250ef . Nice bike I am a new member and will be posting for help and sharing photos of my bike . Thanks 

    • By Grizz10
      Hi everyone, looks like a busy place.
      Is there a free download available anywhere for my machine?Im not having much luck, as the key word here, is free. Thank you
    • By 2wdrancher
      Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
      Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem 
      FINAL SHAFT
      23611-HR3-A40  =$80.48
       
      BEARING
      91006-HP5-601   =$11.11
       
      OIL SEAL
      91202-HR0-F01   =$ 7.94
       
      COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
      11300-HR3-WB0   =$206.99
       
      PROPELLER SH AFT
      40400-HR3-A20   =$91.50
       
      FINAL GEAR
      41400-HR3-W50   =$714.88
       
      FINAL CASE BRA CKET
      50350-HR3-A20  =$7.40
       
      FLANGE BOLT
      95701-08016-08  =$1.49
       
      R. SHAFT SET
      44250-HR3-WB1  =$240.64
       
      L. DRIVESHAFT
      44350-HR3-WB1  =$240.64
      This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4  lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace,  or craigslist
       
      001
      NUT, ADJUSTING 
      41560-HP5-600
      $6.51
       
      002
      CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      41570-HR3-A21
      $6.56
       
      003
      SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41571-HP5-600
      $1.95
       
      004
      CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41573-HP5-600
      $3.23
       
      005
      GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41716-HP5-600
      $3.12
       
      006
      LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54030-HP5-600
      $8.91
       
      007
      PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54031-HP5-601
      $10.87
       
      008
      BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54040-HP5-601 
      $11.19
       
      009
      SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54041-HP5-600
      $1.86
       
      010
      GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54050-HR3-A20
      $4.55
       
      011
      GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54321-HP5-600
      $8.95
       
      X2 012
      BOLT, FLANGE (6MM) 
      90111-162-000
       
      $2.54 
       
      013
      NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM) 
      90343-ZE6-000
      $1.70
       
      014
      JOINT B, BRAKE ARM 
      95015-32001
      $0.82
       
      X3 015
      BOLT, FLANGE (6X12) 
      95701-06012-00
      $1.34
       
       
      Or Forman 520 w diff lock
       
      FINAL GEAR
      41400-HR4-A21  =$732.49
       
      PROPELLER SHAFT
      40400-HR4-A20  = $92.54
      And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
    • ATV Service Manuals
    • By Scoopeddad
      I have a 1994 big bear and I am starting to have issues starting. I put in a new starter and selnoid as the at stopped starting with the electrical but will still start with the pull cord. Where and what now should I be looking at to check? If I turn key to on and the switch to on then hit the start button, the bike clicks and then nothing. Lights still work but no response to the starter. Stumped now. Any help would be greAt.
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