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2011 Grizz 700 here and so far the only thing I've been told about replacing my coolant is that I should put the same color stuff back in that came out. But other than that nothing specific. A search through both the service or owner's manual gave no coolant info other than capacity. Here's a comparison of the old and the proposed new...
The stuff on the left, what's coming out, is a blue-green. I'm second owner and only put about 75 miles on the machine, so I have no idea how old this coolant is.
Stuff on the right is the new coolant the guy at the car shop suggested, and is more of a pure lighter translucent blue. It's Pentofrost NF, whatever that is. He said it's what's recommended for European, including BMWs. Here's the bottle...
1) have I found the right coolant?
2) does this stuff need to be diluted? The bottle says it's 'full strength.'
Took my wolvy for her first trail ride past weekend. Got home and cleaned all the mud and dirt off. Went to take a spin around the neighborhood and started having issues.
When you are about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the RPMs will sudden spike way up with little difference in power to the machine. Once you shift to the next gear it will increase power/rpm consistently then same thing happens and you get a sudden RPM spike. It also seems to recreate the problem if you are low in the gear and try to punch it...High rpm with no power increase. If you shift gears and gradually increase throttle she will increase power and RPMs consistently but if you shift and are more than 1/2 throttle it will increase power and RPMs fine until you get about 1/2 to 3/4 way through the gear then you get the same RPM spike...
Hope I am explaining this clearly. My truck did a similar thing once and it turned out to be a whole new tranny...hope this is a different issue. Thanks for your help guys and gals.
hi - a friend of mine has a 2004 Honda Foreman 450. His machine will move in 4-wheel drive but not when in 2-wheel drive. WHen he uses 4-wheel drive to start moving, he can then turn off 4-wheel and quad keeps moving. Whats wrong?
Hello! I am new here and I need some help from the experts. My 9 year old son was given an adult sized 4 wheeler for Christmas. He has never ride one and has never taken a training course. Of course, I just found out about this but was never consulted about him getting this, either.
Anyways, he was able to ride it this morning and has never had any safety training and honestly, I am petrified he is going to get hurt. It will happen, it's just when.
I am in the state of Indiana and the law states you must be 14 years old to operate unless there is direct supervision of an 18 year old or other. What exactly does "direct supervision " mean? Is rhis within site of the person riding or is it someone that is ON the ATV?
Also if there are ANY SUGGESTIONS you guys can give me regarding this it would be helpful.
My son is only 9 and a very immature 9 year old at that. I feel he has no business being on this without proper training but apparently that isn't as important to some people.
Also, if there is anyone in the state of Indiana on here that can tell me the rules that would be awesome.
*in addition* the 4 wheeler is for an adult. My son is only 4 foot 9 and 65 pounda. He's tiny. I am afraid he is certainly nowhere close to having the weight to control this machine.
Customer brought in this bike for no response when put in gear. After getting into the transmission I found the main shaft for the clutch had been stripped where the gears mesh up and also the shaft for the gears had been broken in half. I replaced all broken parts and reassembled the transmission. Now it makes a knocking noise in low gear and in reverse. When in neutral it tries to roll reverse while making the same knocking noise. I’ve disassembled and reassembled it several times with the same result. Any ideas??
I'm having a problem getting a CDI unit that works. The parts list calls for a 4XE-85540-00-00 CDI unit. The one currently on the ATV works but there seems to be a problem with the spark advance curve. It will idle fine an rev. to about 1.5K then starts bogging down sputtering, popping and basically running poorly. If you can get it above 2200 RPM it runs better. I have ordered and returned about 5 replacement modules that will not work at all. The unit currently on the bike has no part numbers or identification other than a Mitisibuchi logo. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced similar problems with replacement CDI's and if so what is the fix? So far I have not found a replacement CDI that will supply an pulse to the Ignition coil.
So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
Hey guys, Im new here but I recently Picked up a '99 Foreman 400 that apparently just had a top end rebuild. It blows white smoke like crazy and ticks/knocks and seems to follow the rpm's. I haven't done to much trouble shooting yet, It starts and runs like a champ and has good compression. I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to where to go.
Oh ya the top end rebuild the guy did was according to him he honed the cylinder and replaced the piston and rings, my fear is an ovaled cylinder?
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