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looking for direct shift shifting lever that properly fits my 2003 Yamaha warrior 350 and fits my foot the same as a stock 2003 Yamaha warrior 350 shifting lever fits my foot
I am about at my wits end. Took the 250 back to the dealer repair shop AGAIN. Had it in there two months ago for a bad smoking issue. I thought it was to much fuel and washing the oil off the cylinder and burning it. They said it was the head. So I purchased new valves, valve guides, oil seals and had the head professionally done. So $225 later I had a great looking head. Well while I had the ATV apart this far I also got new rings for the piston. Mic'd everything out and everything was in spec. Put it back together and seemed like it smoked a little at the house (5000 feet above sea level). Took it to the mountains (9000 feet above seal level) for Sept. bear hunting and couldn't use it. Smoked worse than before and couldn't run it past half throttle or it would flood itself out. So brought it back home and it is back at the shop again. I say it is something in the carb that isn't set right or wrong jet????????? Anyone have any other ideas that it could be?
My 500 4x4 only works if shift lever is pushed forward, I understand that there is a switch in the shifter box that goes bad and am wondering if this could be the problem and is there any way to check it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Help, The carb started leaking gas out of my 2000 300 so I shut the gas off. 6 months later I get a chance to check into it and the needle is stuck in the brass seat. New needle and cleaned the carb good and now the gas won't shut off. Fills the air box/cylinder with gas. I had it apart 3 times and nothing I did seems to solve the continual gas flow. I really don't want to spend $379 for a new carb. Any suggestions? I did notice the tangs,arm that hold the float pin are really wore out, lots of slop for the float pin.
Put a piece of hose on the gas inlet, blew through the hose and lifted the float and it will shut off air being blown. But, hook the gas line up to carb and gas just keeps running out of it.
Hoping for some help for a newbie's wife. Bought a used 06 Kodiak 450 with 550 miles and just over 100 hours on it. Had been used primarily for plowing snow. The unit ran well, started with no issues in zero weather, and ran very smoothly when it was tested (two different occasions). Not convinced it was cared for like my husband would, we brought it to our local auto guy whose young son can fix or service anything recreational (specialty is quads and snowmobiles). We had him change all the fluids, spark plug, new tires, and give it a general look-see to make sure all was good. There were no noted leaks, but the son said the rear differential was basically dry...two drops came out when it was drained. No evidence of any leak, but he said it had to have gone somewhere. The shop did the work, but said to watch it carefully in case a leak developed. Well, we've put only about 6 miles on it just puttering around the house and suddenly it started revving fast, and it was difficult to get into park or neutral. The hubby parked it, but cooling fan continued to run for several minutes, then shut off. The first time this happened, we called our guy and he asked how much gas was in it. Well, it was in the red zone. He said to fill it because the lack of fuel could have caused the engine to starve and suck from areas in the carb (hope I'm remembering the verbiage). Basically, the quad was empty. Our bad. Hubby filled it up last night, started it up and rode it around the yard again and we thought that was the problem. Then the same issue happened. I'm having a severe stomach ache thinking that we have purchased a really expensive problem. Before we take it back to our shop (who we have used and trusted for dozens of years), is there any obvious thing we can try? We do not have a service manual--only an owner's manual. Or is the dry differential issue that the son discovered possibly a heinous culprit? Hubby wants this for this fall's hunting season, so we have time to fix the issue...I'm just curious if it is something stupidly simple. I apologize in advance for not really knowing much, and the hubby has no idea I'm posting this! HELP PLEASE!
By Stephanie Webb
I have a 2000 500 quadmaster lta an just rebuild the gear box an my high gear is like nuetral will not move but all other gears move nothing looks broke just need some help cant figure out what gear that would be or if it could be the shifter fork
By Richard Western
I am hoping someone might be able to help me out. My Kawasaki 300 4x4 has an issue where it doesn't seem to want to go into neutral and also it will shift into reverse without using the lockout knob.
If anyone can suggest what to look at it would be very much appreciated.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
fighting this thing for a month now.No spark at plug.
New ignition coil,pick up coil,stator,reg/rectifier,all new wiring.Started it up today rode for an hour shut it off.Tried to start later wont start.pulled plug wire it firing a blue spark while starter button is pressed.Tried new plug no change. It stared a couple times an ran for few seconds then died.Will CDI act this way? The reg/rectifier get pretty hot is this normal?
I have a Polaris Express 300 2 stroke. Finally got the engine running smooth with everything tweaked correctly on the carburetor.
I have now moved on to shifting the gears.
I have had this atv for a long time and high gear was always a pain in the ass to get to go into gear, reverse was okay and low was best.
You could always feel low go into gear.
A couple of months ago the spark plug cap went bad while I was trying to figure out the issue with shifting into high. At this time I put fresh gear oil in and never drained the old because it literally looked empty.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago. I finally got everything running but shifting into low you cant really hear grinding gears but it doesn't jerk like it used to when shifting into low and half the time it wouldn't shift fully.
Reverse would move but completely grinding, and high of course is still the pain in the ass.
All 3 gears when shifting into clicks like it got a good shift, not a click on the gears or anything, just a normal click that your in gear so I know I am not loose on the shifter rods.
I checked the gear oil and it was sort of milky, like barely and had bubbles. This means water is in it so i am going to drain the gear oil today.
What I am wondering is could the bad gear oil be the reason the gears aren't going in fully? I highly doubt it because of the symptoms with some gears grinding and others not going into gear at all like high.
Just need to know what the causes could possibly be.
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