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By Jerryd68
having an alignment problem with the machine pulling to the right, it has new tires, no apparent wear on the steering components or damage. Does anyone have any experience aligning these machines?
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By Admin
Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments.
Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/
When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare.
One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine.
Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel.
Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components.
The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider.
Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks.
Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B.
Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual.
To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads.
Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod.
When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly.
Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
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By arvellaspoon
When I push down on the rear brake pedal, it makes the left hand brake very sloppy. Is there a way to adjust that? I have a 2007 Suzuki Vinson
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By chuckcnm
Hi, just picked up a MOTO 4 YFM255 and want to replace the rear brake pads. How do I get to the back. Guessing I need to remove the brake disk, question any easy way to do this?
Thanks
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By Kyboy
Iam looking for help seperating the rear brake drum and the cover. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate
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Similar Topics
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By Susan Makowski-DeGraw
My quad runs, it starts up runs for about 10 minutes and then it dies if you let it sit for 10 minutes it’ll start back up ride for another 10 minutes and then die again, trying to figure out why it keeps stalling
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By JacobSlabach
So this’ll be long I’ll give all the background first to see my issue skip to the ***
Hey I picked up a pit bike and a foreman for 800 the pit bike was running but the foreman was locked up. Sold the pit bike but when I took the top end off the piston I only found half a piston left. So knowing the rest of the piston was down in the crankcase I knew it had to be pulled and gone thru completely.
to pull the motor I went ahead and pulled the rear end off and unbolted the front diff to pull the drive shafts and pull the motor. Now I have the motor torn down completely and have all the parts of the piston removed. I know the rod and crankshaft is shot (heat discoloration and too much up and down play rod to crankshaft).
***so I’m wondering while I have the motor apart what should I check for? I know this motor died from heat as the oil in the head smelled like popcorn. So what should I check to make sure I fix the issue (overheating I assume) and not just the symptoms (blown up motor lol).
so put simply I don’t want to just rebuild the motor to have it overheat and repeat the process after 5mins of running
Here’s some pics
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By KX420Guy
Hey guys, Im new here but I recently Picked up a '99 Foreman 400 that apparently just had a top end rebuild. It blows white smoke like crazy and ticks/knocks and seems to follow the rpm's. I haven't done to much trouble shooting yet, It starts and runs like a champ and has good compression. I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to where to go.
Oh ya the top end rebuild the guy did was according to him he honed the cylinder and replaced the piston and rings, my fear is an ovaled cylinder?
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By oxidized_black
View File 2006 - 2011 Honda TRX 250EX Service Manual
5851e0ba82762_2006-2011HondaTRX250exServiceManual.pdf
Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Honda ATV
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