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1993 Honda TRX 300FW - Starter


bpgras

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  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By p5200
      I added more fresh gas it sat one day now, it's acting up again. Before cleaning out carburetor it wouldn't idle good and had gas leaks from carburetor. Now it idles pretty good but, if I increase throttle speed at a certain amount it starts missing bad. I'm going to try and post a short video. Just about ready to give up on this thing.😒  you can see reflection perking in video.

      20240217_114429.mp4
    • By p5200
      Hello folks, my machine wound up with I think water in the tank etc. It runs but speeds up and slows back down randomly. When not running I don't see gas dripping  from the drain nipple on bottom of float bowl and drain screw is closed tight. With normal idle speed I see no leaking. When the idle speed increases quite a bit on it's own, gas appears to start slowly dripping from float bowl drain nipple? I'm wondering if the carb is flooding and the gas is actually coming from higher up and just appears, to be coming out of nipple but, is actually running down the sides of the nipple? I put a kit in the factory Mikuni carb last year after sitting for a while and I think the gas in the jug I used had drawn moisture. I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and clean everything out. I was just curious if anyone else thinks it's probably something in the carb and is, acutally a flooding problem? Thanks Folks! 🙂
    • By Traytonrowland
      So, I bought the machine almost a year ago and have been chasing problems. I have replaced the battery, starter solenoid, spark plug, and the starter. Since having replaced those, it doesn't want to start. I checked the carb, and it was wet as well as the spark plug. And I've searched multiple forums and cannot find an answer. So, anything that helps is appreciated, thanks. 
    • By 2wdrancher
      Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
      Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem 
      FINAL SHAFT
      23611-HR3-A40  =$80.48
       
      BEARING
      91006-HP5-601   =$11.11
       
      OIL SEAL
      91202-HR0-F01   =$ 7.94
       
      COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
      11300-HR3-WB0   =$206.99
       
      PROPELLER SH AFT
      40400-HR3-A20   =$91.50
       
      FINAL GEAR
      41400-HR3-W50   =$714.88
       
      FINAL CASE BRA CKET
      50350-HR3-A20  =$7.40
       
      FLANGE BOLT
      95701-08016-08  =$1.49
       
      R. SHAFT SET
      44250-HR3-WB1  =$240.64
       
      L. DRIVESHAFT
      44350-HR3-WB1  =$240.64
      This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4  lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace,  or craigslist
       
      001
      NUT, ADJUSTING 
      41560-HP5-600
      $6.51
       
      002
      CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      41570-HR3-A21
      $6.56
       
      003
      SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41571-HP5-600
      $1.95
       
      004
      CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41573-HP5-600
      $3.23
       
      005
      GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE 
      41716-HP5-600
      $3.12
       
      006
      LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54030-HP5-600
      $8.91
       
      007
      PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54031-HP5-601
      $10.87
       
      008
      BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54040-HP5-601 
      $11.19
       
      009
      SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54041-HP5-600
      $1.86
       
      010
      GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54050-HR3-A20
      $4.55
       
      011
      GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH 
      54321-HP5-600
      $8.95
       
      X2 012
      BOLT, FLANGE (6MM) 
      90111-162-000
       
      $2.54 
       
      013
      NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM) 
      90343-ZE6-000
      $1.70
       
      014
      JOINT B, BRAKE ARM 
      95015-32001
      $0.82
       
      X3 015
      BOLT, FLANGE (6X12) 
      95701-06012-00
      $1.34
       
       
      Or Forman 520 w diff lock
       
      FINAL GEAR
      41400-HR4-A21  =$732.49
       
      PROPELLER SHAFT
      40400-HR4-A20  = $92.54
      And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
    • By p5200
      I've been using Valvolene 10w 40 ATV oil but, it's like $8.00 a quart. Is that about the going rate? Or is there cheaper alternatives that would be suitable? Thanks
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