Quantcast
Jump to content


Pressure Testing


Recommended Posts

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By p5200
      I'm assuming, it's alright to test the engine after adjusting valves without the rear axle installed? Can someone please verify this? I'm waiting on axle parts and wanting to get that done while waiting. Thanks! 🙂
    • By beast6228
      So the other day I picked up a Lakota 300, it's going to be a new project for a bit, the engine is super clean and so is the frame...luckily the VIN was intact.  However, it is the missing the air box (the one that holds the filter) but it does have the air chamber that goes to the carb.  These air boxes seem to be pretty pricey, so my question is has anyone had any luck running a pod filter on theirs and if so, what kind of jets are you running? The carb on this one is a Keihin CVK, I have yet to pull it off and inspect it.
    • By 97kingquad
      I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable. 
       
      So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase. 
      I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
       
      What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
      So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
      It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner. 
      I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine.  I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
      So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket) 
      So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that. 
      So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is? 

    • By Toni82
      I am looking Servce manual for my BRP, can any body send me it on my e-mail? Please.... I think that it's will be a long hard wway to do this ( But i want to do this by myself.
      Please send on my e-mail: [email protected].
    • By Params_sweden
      Hi!
      I got my KLF300 running again with your help a couple of months ago, at that time it was the ignition coil that had failed. It has been in use since then without issues until two weeks ago.
      When the new issue showed I was going at about 10km/h and it suddenly slowed to a halt. I started it again after that with choke and I drove it 400 meters and parked. Next time it was really hard to start, and since it was low on gas I thought that was the problem. It didn't get any better with a full tank, so I assumed it was the cold weather, and adjusted the pilot slightly.
      After that it I actually got it started again with full choke and some slight gas, I drove about 300 meters and then it slowed down to a halt again. After that, it hasn't started again.
      The compression is 165psi. The spark has good intensity, the ATV has functioned before with the same spark "intensity"/light. I *assume* that it has gas as well, there is definitely gas on the spark plug when I remove it
      I have checked the carburetor slightly, the float works, diaphragm looks ok, but I haven't disassembled it to really look for dust and such in all the small places.
      My theory right now is that it might've been some dust in the gas tank that went into the system, it's just a theory
      I'm thankful for all the help and pointers I can get, don't hesitate

      / Pär, Sweden

×
×
  • Create New...