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By 97kingquad
Ok so I'm back lol
I got two arctic cat 300s that I am either trying to make one of the two or if possible I'll get them both running. I have a good start but I am struggling to find a wiring diagram that actually shows the connections.
Both bikes were tore apart and some wiring was spliced and all screwed up so I have been tracing wires and redoing the connections.
On one bike I have a neutral light and it will let the use e start to turn starter motor, thing is on that bike the motor is stuck engaged so when I pull the pull cord it's turning the starter motor as well.
On the other bike it is free and works as it should but I can't get the neutral indicator light to come on. Or any for that matter. I have been going through the fuses which all have power as well as the e start switch.
I'm wondering if anyone has come across some similar issues, I am checking the neutral switch tonight, I have been checking the wiring and comparing it to the bike that is working (in that sense) but both bikes are missing some things
I'm wondering if it is a better option to pull the good motor out and rebuild it then put it into the bike with the indicator lights working. But on that bike all the bushings and linkages are toast so there's a lot of work to either bike. I'd like to at least get the engine to fire up before I invest too much energy into swapping motors.
So if anyone has some info or can send me in the direction of a good wiring diagram it would be much appreciated. Thanks
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By starsteven22
Anyone have a problem with the Polaris instrument cluster/speedometer frozen(part # 3280453) ? Mine is always showing R and slow now(see photo), Did it go bad or can you reset it or is something else the problem. It is on a 2004 Sportsman 500
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By 97kingquad
I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable.
So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase.
I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner.
I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine. I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket)
So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that.
So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is?
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By mga
I have to replace all 4, how much is involved? Will they slide out of the front yoke? Or, do the boots just slide over the wheel end?
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By Gwbarm
Im finishing up on the Big Bear, just tying up some loose ends and its done.
My next project I actually bought first, but the Big Bear seemed like it was more challenging so tackled it first. Now looking the Eiger over im not so Sure.
I bought this Suzuki Eiger, almost a year ago, rear wheels locked up, but it ran fairly well. It was so bad that it took 3 Big Guys to get it on my trailer. All the parts were there it ran. He wanted 600.00 and I offered him 400.00. a plus it had the original Kei Hin carb on it.
You might ask, why would you want something so ugly, it is often referred to as the ugly sister to the King Quad. I actually like the Eiger I have this one and also a 2007. I have riden them before, they are strong a true beast, I am a fairly Big Guy 6' 3" 195 pds, and it fits me good, but what I really like is the wide foot print and low center of gravity , not so easy to turn over.
So I get it home and I don't have 3 big guys to help me get it off my trailer, but I do have a John Deere, hooked it up and drug it off the trailer,an afterthought I should have used a couple of furniture moving dolly's under the rear wheels, oh well. Maybe I didn't ruin the already stuck rear end or transmission I was sure which, I was fairly sure it wasn't locked brake drums, after all that they should have popped free.
This is what I have done so far. It's off the trailer I took the drive shaft bolts loose, they were tight, had to get a 3 foot cheater, I thought they were going to break. Got them out and now I can roll it around. I checked the shifter, this is a manual shift Eiger LTF400F. Foot shifter moved didn't seem to be going to any gear, but it was hard to tell, the shifter on the tank which has Low, High, and Reverse did not move. I took it apart and oiled it up good still wouldn't move. Thought the cable was stuck so I unhooked it from the linkage and cable moved freely. Looked at the linkage closely and it was stuck. I tapped it lightly, very lightly , with small hammer and it freed up kind of, but still stiff. I could tell this side cover had been off before and put back very sloppily. This is kind of where i left off except the plastics are all off, you might have seen me working on them in another post. Nothing I have done so far has helped, my next step was to take the side cover off the engine to see what's going on in there, but installing my Granite counter top, numerous honeydews, and the big bear kind of slowed down my progress. I did determine that it wasn't the rear end, that's actually what I thought it was going to be. If anyone has any ideas, they would be appreciated.
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