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I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
By Michael Rogers
Well this is my first time tearing down an ATV. Have done a little work on 2 stroke's in the past, but not much. I'm needing some help. I've got a Bayou that has lost compression. I tested it, and it was like at 40psi. I had already set the timing on it, and it does have spark fuel, etc...
My question is about the cylinder. To me it looks pretty toasted, but need some help in determining. It is a 2000 Kawasaki Bayou 220. I bought it not running, just to see if I can get it running so it has not ran since I bought it. This question is about the cylinder, and part 2 I have will be about the CAM.
Any advice / help is greatly appreciated.
Inside sleeve a line(left line) runs the length that I can feel with my fingernail. The line on the right I can't feel.
Some rust it looks like on these two pictures.
hey so never ran into this before but i recently got a 04 honda rubicon 500. bought it from my doctor not running and the front brakes were locked up. cleaned the carb and it fired right up and runs great. these model atvs have drum brakes front and rear. not a fan. lost all brakes on this one when i hit some water and it got inside the rear drum case. so i ordered new shoes for the rear end no biggie. front is more complicated. has hydraulic drum brakes not sure who thought that was a good idea but the pistons in the drums rusted and locked up from it sitting with moisture in the drums.
so i had a choice to make- 1. buy new brake pistons ($120 for a set of 4) or 2. order super atv's disc brake conversion kit for $250. i HATE drum brakes so i went with the conversion kit. it said it was easy to install with no specialty tools. so i order it and turns out i have to press the studs out of my hubs to get the disc on.
anyone ever done this and if so how?
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I live in Minnesota and bought a 2016 CFORCE 500 HO. I am in hope to see if there is anyone in the US that is experiencing this sudden drop off in RPM below 4000 RPM. I have uploaded some videos of my issue on YouTube. I will list three of the four I posted. The fourth can be found on my channel but it is a comparison between my Polaris 570 and my CFORCE 500.
I quit on my first dealer because we just did not mix well together. I brought it to another CFMOTO dealer that just became a CFMOTO dealer in January 2016. They are in a large ranch and agriculture area in a neighboring state that is pretty close to where I live. They have close to every brand available. They are a much larger dealer than the first one I bought the unit from.
I brought the unit three weeks ago to them and they have worked on it a good solid week and have given up on it. I have read reports from owners in Canada that the dealers there were aware of the issue and have had success in fixing the herky jerky drivability issue.
I am picking it up tomorrow and bringing it back home. It has been to the trails of the Black Hills this year and was new in late April. 300 miles on it. It has never changed. Very hard to ride on the trails or when I herd livestock.
Here are the links to my videos.
I can't accept that this is normal operation. Does anyone from CFMOTO China scan these posts?
I need help that CFMOTO USA has not provided.
ok it will start up an run but quits a lot till it gets warm, but has a bad miss an wont idle, I have a brand new Honda carb on it, good gas flow, new plug, but when I let the throttle go below a quarter, it backfires through carb an tail pipe:confused: so it has never had any electrical work or mechanical work done...it just started all the sudden, I'm think it may have ignition coil breaking down, or cdi box going bad...anyone had this trouble before? let me know what you did to fix it. thanks:skeptic:
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