Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I just bought a 97 big bear 350 2×4 for the family to ride.. it's smokes real bad on start up and ride, the guy I bought it from said it just needs rings.. should I go ahead and replace the piston, rings, and hone and bore it if it hasent already been done? And where can I find the parts for a good price??? Also should I let my kids ride it the way it is, will it trash it out if they do??? Any info and options is helpful and welcomed, so please c him in!!!!! Thanks in advance!!!

Edited by Jeremyv
did not put make model and cc in subject
Posted

I'd spend the money on a "new" top end. Rebuild yours.

First - tear it apart and CHECK THE CRANK/ROD CLEARANCE BEFORE ORDERING ANYTHING!!!

If it was ridden hard and ill treated you'll need to split the case - if you're able to do that yourself it's worth it. If you're paying a shop it's more money than a newer machine. You can check the rod play after removing the head & cylinder.

If the rod doesn't have excessive play, then I'd disassemble the head (you'll likely need an intake valve, they get pretty worn) Vesrah makes a cheap replacement, Get a top end gasket kit (again I use Vesrah - it comes with valve seals too) Have the valve seats cut (valve job) and replace the seals - don't forget to check the valve guides, too much play in the valve stem and you'll need more machining.

Wiseco pistons are nice but a bit pricey, there are lots of options including yamaha Have the cyl measured (or mic it yourself) and go to the minimum overbore.

I have seen where these have a wasted cylinder so you might have to get a new jug (ebay).

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By Atomusthenes
      This topic is being opened to discuss the feasibility of forced induction on small engines.
    • By Thumpinhard25
      First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run.  I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run.  Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again.  This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb.  So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier?  Once again, I appreciate your help.  
    • By BuckBilly
      I like to ride in wooded and grassy areas. It takes my mind off the everyday routines and helps me deal with my father's cancer. Also gives me a reason to get involved with forums like this one.
    • By Tinkeringreg
      Hi my name is Greg and I just acquired a free 2000 yamaha kodiac 400 4x4 with the ultramatic transmission that does not run. I plan to get it going and use it around my property

×
×
  • Create New...