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I bought a used 2019 ds 70 a couple weeks ago for my son. If I had to guess it has under a 100 miles. It still has the nubs on the tires.
It starts right up on the first crank. After he rides for a couple minutes it will stall when he stops. If he doesn't stop it won't stall but as soon as he stops it shuts off. I can get it started but it take about 3 minutes of cranking the engine before it will fire back up. Then again after a couple minutes of riding it will stall as soon as he stops. Any recommendations?
Just picked this bike up for my 9 year old son. Wasn't run for 10 plus years. Not a crack in the plastics. Paid 1200 Canadian for it. Needed rear bearings and seals and a drive shaft boot. I also put new tires on the back. Where these good bikes? Thanks
Morning all, hope everyone is off to a good start with their day.
about 2 months ago I bought a 95 bayou 300 for a hundred bucks. It was obvious the thing was gonna need some work and I'm up for the challenge. Just looking for some advice on how to get this thing going. The wheeler has an array of problems and I've done a good bit of reading around and learning about the machine lately, but I'm stuck at an impasse and not sure exactly what I need to do to proceed.
So to start with the stuff that was obvious to me; The wheeler has definitely been flipped, the handlebars and steering column are bent, both front and rear racks were bent and have been cut in places to allow the previous owner to bend them back into a rough idea of what they once were. Along with this the little box on the handlebars with the key and lights was completely missing, The ignition wires were hanging out the side and twisted together and the light wires were just freely hanging down below and were also cut, as they have no bullet connectors on them anymore. to deal with the loss of the reverse lockout they strung a cable through a hole in the plastic and attached a random handle to it.
As a preliminary I went ahead and purchased a info box complete with key and reverse lockout and a voltage regulator (as I had read they commonly go bad). I have a small question about the ignition wiring, but I will save this for later as this brings us to the actual problem. No matter how good I do at replacing parts such as this I will never know if any of it has worked because I cant get the transmission to shift at all, but most importantly I cant get it to shift into neutral. I did some research on the problem which consistently lead me to something having to do with the spur gear behind the secondary clutch. I pulled the clutch cover and inspected, Everything was in place with no loose bolts or anything. I went as far as to remove the spur gear and the levers and springs. I could not find any visual degradation that would lead me to believe this part is the issue. With time running thin in the day I went ahead and put everything back in according to the manual. for a brief moment I was very excited to find that the shift lever was actually giving me some sort of tactile feedback and felt as if it was shifting, but this was short lived and it all seemed to jam up and stop doing anything after a few seconds.
When I had the clutch cover off I had my son actuate the shift lever both up and down while I was laying on the ground looking at the spur gear. It seems that every once in a while it was able to grab the spur gear and spin it, but this will ONLY happen if im shifting up. It gets completely jammed trying to go down. Occasionally I can get it to spin partially as I am shifting down, but in those situations it freezes and wont spin any further even if I try to coax it along with a screw driver. What this feels like on the shift lever is there is no feedback. All I feel is the resistance of the spring and then it hits the a spot where it just stops the lever from moving. I get a very distinctive metal on metal "tink" and that's it.
Anyway this is my big hang up at the moment. If I cant get the wheeler in neutral I cant test to see if any of the electronics are working, let alone see if it will turn over for me. As a side note the pull starter is busted, when I pull it I just get the resistance of the spring and it doesn't seem to engage with the motor at all. When the clutch cover was off I grabbed the clutch and spun it clockwise which proved to me that the motor has compression and freely spins.
So that's where I am at now, and I am more or less out of ideas as to what I need to do to either further diagnose the transmission or (fingers crossed) fix it. I figure all the other stuff can wait, as this seems to be the big hinge point on the project at this moment.
I wont be at the farm till later, but when I am I will make a short video of the spur gear so you guys can see first hand what's going on.
I want to thank you guys in advance for any and all advice you may be able to give me. I am glad to have a resource such as this forum and look forward to hearing from you guys!
Currently working on a 1992 Yamaha Big Bear 350 that idles perfect but cuts out with any kind of throttle. We replaced carburetor and head to carburetor boot.
Put in a new spark plug, the old one was black as hell, unsure if it was caused by old carburetor or current misfire. This problem similar to the rev limiter you see on newer models when
differential is locked or in reverse. I don't think this machine has that feature but I could be wrong? I suspect an ignition component is breaking down but at the moment I don't have access to a wiring diagram or workshop manual but I'm working on that. Are the e-manuals any good?
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