naveman

Tachometer reads 4000 rpm max. I took the side cover off and removed the drive belt. No drag on the driven pully at all and it opens easily enough. However, the wet clutch is pretty well toasted; it's worn down to about half the minimum spec and the drum was obviously hot and is worn on the friction surface. I wonder if there might be an equilebrium where the CVT ratio changes to the point where the wet clutch can't turn it (because it's toast). If the drive belt is stretched it would make it worse, ride higher on the primary drive. So I've ordered the wet clutch assembly and a new belt. But since I live in Papua New Guinea and the parts are coming via sea freight it will probably be November before I can install them. Either way these parts need to be replaced; hopefully it solves the problem. Thanks for your help!

When I removed the CV to clean and inspect I did exactly what you recommend. When I reassembled it I left the cover off, jacked it up and started it up. Everything turns as freely as it should but the drive clutch (cones) do not close far enough when revved up; there is still space for the belt to ride up higher on the cones. When I had it apart I could not find anything that would cause it to hang up so I'm kind of at a loss. I might take it apart again just to check... I also need to poke around Google and figure out how to hook up a tach to see how high the engine is actually revving, see if that's right.

I've got a 98 grizzly 600. It starts fine, idles and revs smooth up to about 3500 rpm. It's got enough torque to grind the tires into powder if you hold the front brake but only drives about 10 mph... I've taken the CV apart, cleaned out the old grease, regreased it with Yamalube and everything moves freely. However, when it revs up the cones do not move as far as it looks like they should... Any ideas would greatly appreciated.

Which wires did you have to switch?

Thanks for reply. On mine it turned out to be a blown capacitor in the CDI. The confusion came because it must have blown right when I started it up after replacing the stator and pulse coil since the problem wasnt there when I disassembled the engine. The reason it took me so long to check the CDI is that Ive never had an engine continue to run (even poorly) when the CDI goes out. Weird.

I have the same thing going on and cant figure it out. It seems to be advanced ignition timing. How did you fix your Grizz?