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Posts posted by spock58
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Don't overlook the spark plug boot - wire connection.
If in doubt, cut the wire back...
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Voltage regulator/rectifier.
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That's good, I believe the spec is closer to 450-550 so anything around 500 is ok.
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The other wires are for the pickup coil and it is common for these to fail on Yamaha's. Usually they have a white/red & white/green wires: resistance is 450-500 ohms.
I've used RM Stator for jobber electrical parts and so far so good. Hope this helps.
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It's possible that the flywheel key has been damaged which lets the ignition timing get messed up.
You'll need a puller to remove & inspect those parts.
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If this is a Traxter model then it's likely a wiring issue. This was a common problem on those quads.
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This quad is 15 years old and used daily by a rancher. Fortunately he brought it to me for repair before it was totally destroyed, haha!
Because of a loose ball joint I have to replace the steering knuckle/spindle and the upper A-arm as well as the brake caliper, pads, etc.
Surprising enough, the motor ran fine - even with over 10,000km & thousands of hours on it. Most Japanese quads are pretty durable.
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Have you been able to verify that there is enough oil feed to the cylinder head?
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If it had bad fuel lines, that could make things worse alright. If they disintegrate then there might be more crud in the carb you just replaced/cleaned.
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I'd start by connecting an inline spark tester to it so you can watch ignition while it's running. When the engine quits, so you still have spark? If so, then it's on to checking out the fuel system.
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If you pull that rubber cover off you'll know....looks like it could be part of the lower half of the housing.
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I like the look of the red! did you paint it yourself?
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It was around that year they had a problem with cam chain guides wearing out. It would be nice to know if yours has the updated ones already.
Good idea to keep the u-joints greased regularly and keep an eye on the brake pads as they wear out quickly.
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Looks like it could be a wet brake system, ie. no brake shoes & the system is enclosed in the rear diff.
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You should start by removing the cable and see if it's seized - that's the most likely culprit.
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Any exhaust leakage can also be causing backfires. If you didn't use new gaskets then I'd suggest you try that too.
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That's gotta hurt!
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That's certainly the worst one I've seen, haha! Only one funnier is a Canam I worked on once for a fencing crew. The rear drive (prop) shaft was gone entirely! The guys hammered the poor thing for so long that once the u-joint exploded, the rest of the assembly abandoned ship. Kept driving it of course with only front wheel drive....had no foot peg/well on one side either, must have ridden side saddle.
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You know, I'd take the time to tear it down and see what the damage is. If you can get by with a couple hundred in parts plus labour I'd go for it.
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All the ones I've seen don't have a metal cover like that one.
You're going to remove that broken axle before it will move - likely...
On the older Suzuki's like that they didn't rebuild, just replace as an assembly.
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Looks like you need another axle - ujoint packed it in probably.
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The newer style gear will have thicker, stronger teeth compared to the original. It will be obvious when you compare them.
1992 350 Big Bear Cuts out under load
in Yamaha ATV Forum
Posted
I'm in agreement with what was listed above. All important stuff for sure. The airbox & filter should remain stock on utility quads. The CV style carbs they use depend on this design. You cannot just run an air filter that just bolts on the carb with stock jetting - it's a hassle to get them running properly. I'd like to add that the diaphragm on top of the slide on these carbs is important as well. They must seal well or you won't get proper acceleration.