spock58

Is your choke lever mounted on the left handlebar, under the switches? if it is the thumb-style lever I recently fixed one of those. See the link: there's a special washer setup that gives it friction to stay in the on position when required. Parts 13/14 did the trick. https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038e6ff870021f60a0c214/handle-switch-lever

The 2019 rzr 570 is efi so no carb involved. Need to check if the fuel pump is building pressure and go from there with the diagnoses.

I live near 100 Mile House and recommend the riding around here. Lots of guys from the lower mainland & Fraser valley head up here and ride. The Green Lake area is very popular and nothing is too difficult, perfect for all kinds of machines and abilities.

I'd suggest checking the valve clearances, a tight valve can cause issues.

It might be low on compression, have you done a test for that yet?

It's possible that the shift control motor has failed. Another thing to check is when the shift motor is removed from the engine, ensure that the gear it turns isn't stuck.

Those Honda's will flash a fault code if the system is working, the number of flashes gives you an indication of the area that failed. All connections need to be good - there's quite a few sensors that can act up & send it into "limp" mode.

Can Am Outlander 400's had voltage regulators that failed and needed updating. There was a new design that included a different wiring harness I believe. Not sure if this would be the issue here but it should be checked into.

With that Yamaha with no spark, the stator coils need to be tested. I've seen pickup/source coils fail on them a few times.

Ran into this problem recently on another Kodiak. It needed a new needle & seat (aka float valve) but it turns out the seat part had a bad o-ring. If this isn't replaced, the leak will persist.

My guess is the "fairly new" carb is a Chinese knock off. Sometimes they work great, other times not so much. Of course it may be the only one available for bikes/quads of this vintage. If it is one of those, possibly swapping jets to the original factory ones is the remedy. Good luck, it isn't an easy problem to solve!

Another trick is to delete the reverse lockout that the Kodiak's came with. Pretty easy to remove the cable that connects to the shifter. Once this is gone, you can find the sweet spot where the light comes on a lot better.

My guess is a plugged low speed (aka pilot) jet. It's very small and needs to be removed, cleaned with a strong carb cleaning chemical & hit with compressed air. Replacing them is sometimes the best bet.

The latest and greatest battery from Yuasa is the GYZ series that is labeled made in USA. The older YTX series don't label the same anymore - can't trust that they come from here. Of course the GYZ ones are over $200 up north here and are sold out from some suppliers. Looks like buyer beware again...

The battery that the companies like Honda, Yamaha & Can Am put in their quads from the factory are usually Yuasa AGM & they hold up really well. The good ones were made in the US but I've heard that now they're not & aren't as reliable. Haven't verified this myself but would like to know before spending almost $200 for a new one.