spock58

I live near 100 Mile House, there are trails in every direction around here. It's kind of rocky and slow going around my place but there are many lakes to explore.

Howdy from the still frozen Cariboo - 100 Mile House, BC

On some of those older Yamaha's I found those relays located under the back fender, near the taillight. Really not the greatest place to get access to but worth checking out if you're still looking.

I suppose you could try the one that's still available, it might work - worth a try, right?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/286748237462?pub=5575009733&campid=5337068107

Actually, the number you wanted was this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/286748237462

I responded to your other posts and see that a limiter is what you're searching for. I don't know if the part being one number off makes any difference. There is a used one listed at PSN I'll send a link for. I've used that company before and they're legit. https://www.powersportsnation.com/polaris-xplorer-400l-4x4-98-rev-limiter-lr44-2-400-4060203-42046.html?srsltid=AfmBOorEyMmNpOvJURwCCgkADhqR-7vwISUUr6ZG7kRAHwTZSPYwFxU9#:~:text=Polaris Xplorer 400L 4x4 98,SKU%3A 2194284

It's possible that your ETC (electronic throttle control) is acting up. They cause issues when the throttle cable isn't adjusted right. Those limiter modules are also known to fail. That's the black box thing next to the ignition coil. I seem to recall that unplugging the black wire would bypass the system (not sure if this works on all models). If you can try another module, that might help in diagnosing this.

How'd you make out, working better yet? Just consider that the belt itself can be to blame, try another one & see if that helps.

Hard working Grizzly with lots of issues, barely made it off the trailer (and only in reverse)!

Check for a leaking intake manifold, could be cracked or missing an o-ring??

I live just north of you in BC, Canada and Polaris parts are really overpriced up here. I needed a steering knuckle for a Sportsman ATV and the price was over $600 Can but is only half that in US dealers. Too bad they don't sell across the border, rules forbid it (same as BRP). In the end I bought a used one from Power Sports Nation in Norfolk, NE which was around half of new $. Even with the dollar difference & shipping/taxes, etc. I was way ahead by using them. Highly recommended and their inventory is Huge!! Check out their website, excellent service. Hope this helps.

Can't say for sure but it's possibly from the one way bearing that's connected to the engagement clutch that works with the drive clutch. You'd need to pull the drive (primary) clutch first - the one mounted on the crank that turns the belt. In behind is the clutch/bearing that runs in oil which does the engagement. They are known to wear out eventually.

It sounds like the drive (primary) clutch is getting hung up somehow and can't move properly. I've seen bits from a broken belt get into the sliding sheave bushing making this happen. You'd likely need the proper clutch puller to get it off to clean & inspect.

Here's a suggestion for pulling a stuck axle out of a diff. I use a regular 6' tiedown that I wrap one end around the axle & the other is wrapped around a large hammer/sledge hammer handle, just below the head. With everything lined up right, you can swing the hammer which yanks the axle with more force than just pulling by hand. Give it a try, what's the worse that can happen - right?!

Not sure I follow you, this is a two clutch system in 2004 but isn't it just a centrifugal clutch and a shifting clutch? Isn't the DCT system in a lot newer quads than this one?

If you're searching for used parts to fix this beast, try PSN (PowerSportsNation) out of Norfolk, NE. They are a big outfit that specialize in parting out quads & UTV's, like 30+ machines a week.

I ran into a similar issue with an older Honda ATV, no spark & all the testing done wasn't successful. In the end, the part that had failed turned out to be the voltage regulator. This wasn't explained in any of the manuals & came as a surprise. Ended up being a cheap enough fix after many hours of troubleshooting! Hope this helps.

I'm curious - how do you know it isn't sparking under compression? That would be pretty hard to test for... On the other hand, doing a basic compression test might give an idea of the shape this engine is in.

On one of these Hondamatics I worked on, it sure acted like the centrifugal clutch was at fault. When the engine was cold, it worked normally but once warmed up it acted like clutch slipping. It wouldn't go very fast and uphills were not happening. Removed the clutch and it looked fairly burnt but not really worn out. Installed a new one and there was no difference, still slipped when hot. Ended up replacing the Hondamatic to get it working right. These transmissions are pretty reliable and have been in use for years but they can fail, especially the ones in the first couple of years before Honda updated the oil pumps. Unfortunately, there are many sensors & motors & electronics involved that lead to difficulty with troubleshooting.

It's also possible that the chain that drives the oil pump has stretched enough that it fell off the sprocket. This would cause a failure to drive as well. The chain is found behind the front crankcase cover near the centrifugal clutch.

I also own a first gen Rubicon that had a similar issue. After dealing with any diagnostic/fault codes (gauge will flash) the unfortunate outcome was a failed hondamatic with mine. Honda does not sell parts to fix them, it's only sold as a complete assembly. The oil pump was usually responsible for the transmission going bad so this part needs to be updated as well. It is a big job to complete and the parts will be very expensive if you go with new. That's what I did since the quad was in great shape otherwise.

It doesn't hurt to ensure that the fuel tank is venting properly, if it doesn't then the pressure can cause carb flooding. Some Yamaha's have gas caps that use ball bearings in them to prevent fuel loss if the machine tips over. These can get stuck and create problems. I'm not sure if these type of caps are used on their quads but I've found them on the off road bikes. The caps can be taken apart and the steel balls removed.

I'm familiar with the clutches on these quads, the difference is they utilize an engine braking system which is not on snowmobile CVT clutches. If everything in there checked out, then you may still have a problem relating to the electronic module. Could be its still not working properly.... Since they are likely not available new anymore, you'd have to find a "known good" used one which would be kind of rare. Good luck on your quest! (BTW, that's an inside joke - the quad you have was originally named the Quest I believe, at least here in Canada it was, haha)

Those early Can Am's weren't that popular and those engines didn't stay in production after the v-twins arrived. It's worth checking into the clutch operation, maybe there's something that's failed in there preventing the full shift and limiting the rpm's??