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Showing results for tags 'quest'.
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Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards. Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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I have been looking for a parts Manuel so that one I have a list of parts an two so I can find the parts to replace what I need. I know that the patient was sold to John deere but when I call them to get the parts they tell me I need to have the parts numbers so that they can match them but my atv still runs an drives I just don't want to have to tear it down an have it be down till I get the parts. Can anybody help
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Working on a 2002 Quest 500 and the grommets in the tank are rock hard and leak. Any tips on replacing without having to pull the tank, hands are too big to get to the bottom gromment which is the worst one.
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View File 2002 Bombardier Quest 650, 650 XT Service Manual 2002 Bombardier Quest 650, 650 XT Service Manual Submitter Nick Brooks Submitted 01/01/2020 Category Can-Am BRP ATV
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I own a 2002 Can-Am Quest 650. It will start if you massage the throttle a bit and it will continue to run. BUT if you let go of the throttle and try to let it idle it will always die warm or cold. It has Non-Oxy premium gas, a new gapped NGK plug, a new carb (as of today) and fresh fluids. After installing the new carb it runs exactly the same. I only have a few things that I have observed since the new carb: The choke still doesn't do anything. It has a good cable and it is hooked up. It on fully off. There is a cable in the top, front of the engine that splits into two connectors. The connected side is in the photo. The other side has the yellow banded section and is not connected. I do not see anything in range of this connector so I don't know if this is normal or not??? The original carb wasn't really dirty or clogged. I'll use it as a spare. I don't see this cable and connectors listed in the Can-Am shop manual. Looking for some help. I want to ride!