Coyote251

I found the same thing but have still not been able to locate the accessory plug. I would figure that I would be able to see it without taking all the plastics off the back of the bike. Ideally, at the least I would like to confirm that it exists before I start peeling plastics off.

I am hooking up a speaker on the rear of bike and want to use a factory auxiliary switched plug and not have to cut into the factory wiring or add another switch. I have read a bunch of posts that say there should be an auxiliary 12V connector in the front and one in the rear. I found the one in the front when I hooked up my winch but cannot find any in the rear. I have seen some pictures showing one on the right side attached to the down tube behind the side cover, but there is nothing on my 2024. Can anyone confirm that there is a auxiliary 12V connector in the rear on the 2024 700 Xmr? If so, can you please tell me where it is (with a picture if possible)?

That will certainly help, I will have a watch of it tonight. Thanks.

Just getting back to look at this issue now. My friend ended up pulling the bike apart further and decided to replace the full wiring harness as there was lots rigged up wiring on the bike and he wanted to make sure his issues weren't stemming from an electrical problem. We finally found a harness and got it installed last weekend and now have the bike back up and running. The issue is still there though with the rpms having to be quite high before the belt starts to engage and move the bike. With the electrical all back to stock, it is definitely in the converter system. Like I mentioned in my original post I'm not super familiar with this system and what should be taking place when he pushes on the throttle. We have the manual, which is great for assembly and disassembly, but lacks any explanation on how this is supposed to work and what I should be looking for to be taking place. Any chance you could give me a bit of a rundown on what I should be seeing? Maybe some common issues that I could investigate? He's telling me that the throttle is almost 3/4 of the way before the belt is starting to engage. Is there a way to measure the RPM's or to know at what RPM the belt should be engaging? We're trying to get his bike ready for hunting season this fall, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the replies guys. We've gone through the clutches and everything looks okay and is in spec. I am pretty sure that his issue is that the bike is in "limp mode" from the belt failure switch. The problem with this is that the person he bought the bike from replaced 2 of the connectors that would be used to reset the belt failure and take the bike out of "limp mode" with trailer plugs that now can't be crossed over because the other connectors are the factory plugs. Can anyone tell me what wires are being crossed over when the plugs are switched during the reset process? I feel like I should be able to jump these out to get it out of "limp mode" to see if that's what is causing his issue. If that solves his problem we can look at getting the proper connectors. I've looked through the service manual but can't clearly figure out what is taking place during the reset, and I don't want to burn something up or make the problem worse.

I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot. So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem. Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.

View File 2016 Can-Am Outlander 570, 650 & 850 L-Series Service Manual Service Manual - 2016 Can-Am Outlander L-Series 2016 Can-Am Outlander 570, 650 & 850 Standard Series Here is combined the base manual along with all the needed updates and the 2016 supplement manual into one manual Submitter Coyote251 Submitted 01/03/2025 Category Can-Am BRP ATV  

Hello, Hoping someone can help me out. Just picked up a 2001 Recon for my son, got a good deal on it but the rear-end of the bike came in a box (pieces). I have gone through and inventoried what I have and what I need but I am not sure what size ring gear spacers I should get. I have a new pinion gear installed and a new ring gear to put in it, all of the other bearings and seals are replaced also. So since this should be pretty much like a new differential, I am thinking that "F" is the right size (1.56) based on the manual where it says this is the "standard" size. I am thinking that I need to start somewhere before I worry about measuring backlash. Any input or advice would be appreciated.

Hey all, I just picked up a 2010 Brute Force 750i and need to find the service manual an/or the parts manual (if that exists). I looked through the manuals section and there is nothing specifically for this year. If anyone has this can they upload it or send it to me. I downloaded the 2008-2009 manual but am not sure how applicable this is to my bike. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Sorry about that, I put the wrong link in there. Fixed now.............I think.

If you have fuel coming out the vacuum line on your petcock, you are right that the diaphragm is shot. I am going through the same issue right now on my 01 LT-F500F, I have the vacuum blocked off and am running my bike in prime for now until I can get a new fuel valve assembly. Carb kit for my bike was 15$CAD on ebay, took a month to get here from China so I ended up going to the local shop and buying one for 30$CAD. I would suggest you pull that carburetor off, get it all apart and soak it in something like Hydro Seal (not sure what's available in the USA, but that's what I use). Then clean out every little port, I use different guitar strings for the different size ports and a lot of compressed air and carb cleaner. Once you have done that, soak it again and clean it again. Sounds to me like you have a problem in the pilot circuit. When you put it back together pay close attention to your float height and make sure it is set right. Not sure what that spec would be on your bike, it's 13mm +/- .5mm for mine. Go to the downloads section and there is a manual there for LT-F500F, it's got a good explanation in there of how each of the circuits work and what circuit is responsible for what stage of idle. I'm not sure about the lines on your carburetor. My bike has no fuel pump, it has a straight 6" hose from the petcock to the carburetor. I then have 2 vent lines on the top left and right and the vacuum for the petcock on the crankcase side. The pilot screw adjustment for my bike is 2 3/8 turns out from a soft seat (as per the manual) Not sure if any of that helps you.

Petcock issue as I suspected, going to order a new one tomorrow. Hooked it up to a reservoir,turned on the choke and she started right up. Smoked like mad for the first 30-40 minutes or so, gassed me right out of the garage. I don't think it has ran for quite a while. Let it run for a bit, enriched the mix a little bit and now she's running smokeless. I've got the vacuum lines sealed off right now and am running it in prime. Got the rear end all back together tonight and took it for the first drive since I bought it. Its not perfect, but it was solid for the short 15-20 minute ride. Got a few more things to clean up tomorrow and will give it a bit longer test ride then.

Hi all, Picked this bike up about a month ago, and started doing some work on it. I ordered a carb kit from China, but got tired of waiting for it so I went to the bike shop today and picked up a Shindy rebuild kit. Took the carb out of soak, it has been in there for a month, blew all the ports out, cleaned what I could with a guitar string, used air as best I could to make sure everything was clear. After I was satisfied the body was clean I out the kit in it. Got the floats set to 13mm as per the manual (well 12.87 on one side and 12.92 on the other, so close), set the pilot to a little less than 2 1/2 turns out (manual says 2 3/8 turns). Put everything back together and tried to start it, it started and had a week idle. I tried adjusting the idle screw and as soon as I turned it the bike died. Backed it out and tried again, same result. Left it backed out, started it again and gave it some throttle. As soon as the throttle is touch the bike dies. Changed the spark plug for a new one and checked the spark, good and really strong. I am thinking that I have a bad petcock and am not getting enough fuel to the carburetor. So when I press the throttle I am increasing air but starving for fuel, bike can't run on air alone so it dies. Does this line of thinking make sense? I am gearing up a bottle with a fuel line in it, so I can try gravity feeding fuel to the carb, just have to wait for the silicone to dry so won't be able to test till tomorrow. If it turns out to be a bad fuel valve, I will most likely just replace it with a universal one. If I go this route, what do I need to do with the breather line off the carburetor that used to go to the OEM petcock? Block it off or leave it open? Any help, answers or other ideas of things to check would be greatly appreciated. I have a fishing trip at the end of the month and would love to have my bike running by then.