Arizona

They look to be white, being as old as it is they could have once been yellow.

second picture on the left is the connector

I get no voltage at stator wires when running but am using dc meter, ordered new meter that will read ac current so have to wait for that. 

has to be charging something for the batt voltage to go from zero to 7-8v when connected. Also disconnected stator plug/key off and ohmed

term 1-2 1-3 and 2-3 all reading right about 1 ohms. Looks good to me so far. lol not gonna pull the cover until I get to check voltage with 

new meter and have new battery installed. Any one got any specs on this machine? looked at a 200 mot0 4 download but the charging system

diagnosis was worthless. 

Az

I meant a 1989 Yamaha Moto 4 350 Thx

Looking for a repair manual for a 1995 Yamaha Moto 4 350 Thx

Update. Okay got carb fixed, started it up, runs pretty good. Decided to check charging voltage. At battery only 

have between 7-8 volts while running, idle and above 4K no change. Disconnected Neg. side of battery while running

still runs same. Reconnect battery and unplug voltage regulator and voltage goes to zero. Plug back in goes to 7-8v

Disconnect at connector at stator and voltage at battery goes to zero. Plug back in and goes back to 7-8v  Main fuse is good.

My meter wont check alternating voltage but I am assuming the stator is bad. I checked each stator wire to ground and no continuity

which is good. Now my battery is bad and wont hold a charge, but I would still assume I would get charging voltage at the battery. Should

I wait to replace battery and recheck or is the stator bad? From the stator harness what are the other wires, (yellow,blue,green,)  neutral safety switch?   red and white I figure are 

pick up coil, the 3 other white wires I assume are the charging wires those are the ones I checked.  

Yes I got the year code, its a 1989 its just weird they are saying problem with the 9th digit where you really cant

confuse that number with any other. 

No couldn't get the carb off that way but  finally tore it all apart and got the carb off that way. Needed cleaning

anyway. I always tear them down wearing gloves and with a can of raid. Everyone I have taken apart have had

pissed off black widows living in them. The same on this one. Got one under the gas tank! Anyway took the carb

apart and didn't see anything in it to make it flood. Float looks good, not full of gas. Needle is good no ring and nothing

under the needle that I could see. Gonna clean it up and see if it still floods. if it does ill get a carb kit.  Az

Cleaned up pretty nice, tires good, the more I check the more I like it. Oil is clean, air filter new.

plug is rich fouled but new and they said gas was leaking out of the carb so hopefully something under

the needle. Getting the carb off is going to be a pain. cant get to the cables under the tank without pulling off the

tank, in order to pull off the tank you have to pull off the front fenders and to pull them off you have to pull off the 

handle bars and all the components attached to the bars, battery is dead and no good but I think this one will turn out

fine. It also included a pull along home made heavy duty trailer. Dam thing probably weighed 500 lbs. kinda cool as it 

has airplane tires on it. Not bad for 350.00  Well it gives me something to do and keeps me busy. Az

And once again picked up a dead atv. This time is a Yamaha Moto 4

They don't know anything about it. I cleaned up vin best as possible and 

everytime I run it it says 9th digit is wrong. The vin I punch in is ( JY43HPW08K0000690)  So I think its a 1989 and 

on the side of the motor is a 349 cc on cylinder so I assume its a 350 correct me if im wrong.

its been dead for about a year. Any info would be great to what it is for sure and if maybe there

is a manual here for download. 2wd, oil cooled, elect start only and batt is dead of course. Post couple of pics  Thanks in advance Az

LOL, After further checking its not running rich, its blowing oil. With the compression being 

pretty good im assuming its the valve seals. Little more than I wanted to mess with as everything

needs work. Just not worth the effort for what I got in it. I posted it for sale at double what I paid 

for it and have at least 20 offers. Hoping just to let it go tonight. Looking at it its pretty rough. Some pics

for your enjoyment lol. Az

Thanks Az

So im back at it again. Another headache but different manufacturer. 

I picked up an 81 ATC 110 for almost nothing. It is nothing to look at but 

they seem to collect them out this way so I figured I could always get my money back

no matter what the condition. The motor wasn't locked up and it had spark. Had not run in years

(always the case) I pulled off the carb and cleaned it out the best I could, lots of corrosion. Years of water etc.

after pulling it forever got it to fire but would barely idle and super rich off idle. Black smoke fouling out plug immediately.

Ordered a (yes you guessed it a Chinese carb as only available) and still super rich, same no change. Choke is open. I lowered the 

metering rod as low as the adjustment goes. Turned in the a/f screw and bottomed it out still rich. Not flooding, float level good

and nothing restricting air flow, air box is not there just open carb. I ended up checking compression and only had about 75psi

I checked the valves and the exhaust valve was too tight. Loosened it up and got 110 PSI  Now starts easier but still super rich. 

Black smoke when you rev it up if it revs up cant find any other way to lean it out. Have another carb on the way but not very

confident it will fix it. Any weird things to look for? Checked cam timing its good. It has elect. ignition and even tried to advance

the ign. timing just to see what would do. So what do the ATC Masters have to say?  Pics to follow.   Az

Well I contacted the seller of the defective carburetor and they sent me another one.

This one works great, tons of power, not lean at idle or off idle, idles great and starts

great. Couple of pics of my 100 dollar atv after all the headaches. I love a challenge. 

Next is a 81 Honda ATC its the worst I have seen. anyway enjoy

Yea I thought it was a good buy, had to drive about 70 miles one way to get it but still worth it.

I used a cheap carb on the bayou 220 and worked fine but this one is like it was too small of a cfm. 

didn't seem lean as mixture went but was just too small. Like putting a 1 barrel on a blower set up. 

Just have to put all back together now and hope all the bolts are in the bucket I got along with the

other parts with it. 

Update. Ok after re adjusting valves this morning and tearing everything down again 

I decided to get the original carb which was  originally full of dirt and sand inside and went through it again,

same as last time, compressed air, carb cleaner through all the jets, air bleeds etc. put that one back on the engine

and fired it up and presto, like magic all power there, no more backfiring at idle, reved up great, drove it around and 

runs almost like new. must be a combination of valve timing, valve adjustments, carb problems all in one to finally fix it.

I now agree with most everyone else that the Chinese carburetors are junk. Mimicked other problems, don't know if jets are

too small or what, wasn't lean at all. Now the the last thing. I runs great but at an idle its about 300 rpms lean. I tried adjusting

the needle at the bottom of the carb while running and no change. How can I richen it up at idle only and not off idle? There are

no adjustments on the needle on the diaphragm. Float is fine, If I can fix that lean at idle it will be like new and I might have 

some hair left lol Thx. Az

intake is fine,  choke wise uses the plunger style, no butterfly. Not stuck. Even checked to see if rubber intake was

cracked leaking vacuum, no problem found. Had a feeling it was gonna be a headache but for a 100.00 if I cant 

figure it out can always flip it. Kinda liked this one as has all the options I like including the locking rear diff. Gonna

keep messing with it. let ya know Az

Ok, finally received the adapter for the compression test it reads right at 120. 

I have double and triple checked the cam timing, Its perfect.  I re adjusted the valves.

I even made sure the piston was at tdc in case the crank key sheared. All 

looks good. I looked down the plug hole and piston looks super clean. Like I said the 

previous owner had a mechanic work on it. I tore down the carb and cleaned it out and even

put a new one on, have even tried to adjust it while running still same. Plug is perfect color, carb is does not 

seem rich or lean at idle or off idle. Clutch not slipping, Charging at 14.2     I was going to check to make sure

the ignition timing was advancing but when removing the inspection plug with the engine running it spews oil out

like a mad volcano so cannot check that. Cannot be sure but it seems like its running hot,( more of a guess)

I did remove the exhaust just to rule out plugged exhaust. Ran the same.  Are these 300s just a dog? My 220 

would run circles around this one. Im stumped. Any ideas? Az

I can rev it in neutral but even in neutral very sluggish, kinda like if the cat/converter is plugged up. 

Gonna try opening up exhaust at the pipe just to check, you never know. I have had extensive experience

in automotive but only on cars, it basically runs like the valve timing is off, can drive it but barely goes and if

I hit 2nd gear it can barely handle it, not rich or lean mixture, im stumped but still waiting on compression, that should

at least tell me if motor is ok. Gonna order a new tester with a 12mm thread pitch today. Let you know when I know the

compression. Kinda sucks as going by what the previous owner told me. He said ran fine then one day had no power. His 

mechanic tears motor down, new valve seals, new chains, I found the wrist pin clip and old valve seals in the bucket of parts.

but the problem is related to the original complaint. no power, nothing has changed. I found a thread on the same problem 

with the same vehicle but cant find out the outcome. link here.....https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/atvs-utility-vehicles/98508-kawasaki-bayou-300-no-power.html

Not the carb. set right and also installed a new one with identical results.

Not the clutch, no slipping, just no power, 

Feels like your trying to start off in 5th gear. 

adjusted timing and valves, will have to check compression when I 

find right adapter for gauge. 

Ok Reset timing, also adjusted intake and exh. valves. 

put back together still no power. sounds and feels like timing is retarted.

runs smooth but wont get out of its own way. I can floor it and keep it from moving

with my feet. Not a fuel issue, wondering if valve was damaged when he first had a problem.

I guess next step is to check compression but have to find one small enough to fit the plug hole. 

Any ideas?

So a few weeks ago ended up buying a 02 Bayou 300 for 100.00

Get there to see it and motor was gone through and parts missing, stuff not connected

and a big freekin bucket of parts and bolts. He said had no power and mechanic said it was

the wrist pin. Ended up leaving it in pieces and left like that. I end up getting most of it back together

and manage to get it to fire up. I drive it and has no power! No missing just no power. I figure check 

the timing chain as he did replace that. Well I spin the motor over and guess what!

A blind guy could have done a better jobs. Just one question, I  loosen the top bolt on the tensioner then remove it

right? Nothing is gonna fall inside the motor is it? just making sure, need this out before I can move the cam gear 

to the right location. Thanks in advance Az

Well kinda fell off the page here but back now. Quad is all good and running great, no oil leaks either. 

Did a cheap 20 dollar rattle can camo paint job on it, changed 2 back tires and oil and plug Re did the seat etc. Not bad 

for 250.00 If not careful will do a wheelie and doesn't smoke one bit. Motor sounds great. Couple of pics

then on to the next head ache. You will see. Az

Nevermind, finally found an upclose pic I could see thanks

Got the seal kit from ebay, looks good. Have a problem.

The clamp that holds the reverse cable by the reverse lever

is mangled. I cant find a pic that I can see well of the clamp.

Can you take a good pic of yours so I can see how I need to bend it back in 

place so it holds the reverse cable to align it with the lever and hold it in place?

You can see mine in pic #2 it wont hold cable needs to be bent certain direction. Let me know

Thanks Az

Received the seal but unfortunately was wrong one. New one was too small

I decided to order this set from ebay and try https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Seal-Kit-Kawasaki-KLF220-Bayou-88-02/321712461889?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908103841%26meid%3Da843520551284d3a998c68e5a5437707%26pid%3D100227%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D321712461889%26itm%3D321712461889&_trksid=p2054502.c100227.m3827

is the hose fitting at bottom of carb just a vent/overflow? Do I just run it down off the frame towards the ground