Sonders

it's a 2000 model. I wonder since it has an aftermarket carb with harness that the wire colors are different. I'm still confused because I can't find the control module box for it anywhere. The plug it was plugged into runs into the main wire harness and looks to me like it runs up to the battery compartment to plug into the CDI box. I really don't want to cut the wrap off of the main wire harness just to trace that plug harness. I wonder if that heater is even needed, or if it will run without it plugged in. The aftermarket carb that is currently on it looks like what you have pictured above with that wiring harness and sensors. The used oem one I'm getting doesn't have the harness on it, but it does have the brass sensor on the left in picture still on it.

That is the plug coming off of the carb. I unplugged it from harness for picture. I tried tracing the other end of the plug, but it runs into the main harness that is braided.

Here is the harness that runs from carb. It has white, black, brown and black/white stripe.

Just found an operators manual online to download. Found this interesting. Apparently they is an (A) and (B) model. I was wondering about that when I was looking them up before trading for it and kept seeing different front ends and racks. I wonder if the only difference is the plastic racks vs metal racks and different headlights.

I'll definitely try to snug everything down before ordering a new seal. I just found the Download section and downloaded the 400 manual. It is pretty similar from what I've seen so far flipping through it. It has a bit more to it being liquid cooled and mine is just air cooled, plus I don't see the control module coming off of carb on it like mine has. In other news, I just scored the oem carb I was looking at, so should have it early next week. I'll get back to you about wiring tonight.

I'll have to get a pic tonight when I get home and post up. I believe it is this seal here #92049B

I think the module is for cold temps, but can’t find much info on it to verify. After sitting for a week in the garage I’ve noticed it has an oil leak at the rear of the driveshaft housing to the rear drive. Guess I’ll be ordering a new oil seal for that and pulling the swingarm to get to it. I knew about being paid member or 10 post count; I just haven’t found a manual for my bike on here though. Did I miss a section that would have it? I looked through the post at top of the Kawasaki specific forum, but didn’t see it listed in there.

Frank, that was a great write up on Carb rebuild. Any insight on the carb control module on these? Mine has a wiring harness coming off of it that appears to go to a module. What is it's function? I may have found an OEM carb to buy. Once I get it I'll see what happens. Still would really like to have a manual for this thing so I can track down where everything is supposed to go and so on. I've found a couple used paper copy manuals on ebay, I guess I may have to break down and go that route. Was hoping to come up with pdf file and save a little $$.

Oh duh, yes that makes since now that you said that. Yes it has pull start.

Definitely looking for an oem carb to put back on it. In the meantime, can anybody tell me what the round lever on right is for? It has a spring on the other end and connects to right side of the head. I know knob on left is the idle adjuster. Also I need educated on the control box that plugs into the carb as well? I’ve never seen a carb with its own wiring harness and controller.

It appears I got rid of the turd Kodiak and landed in another project Frank. Yeah I’m watching one oem carb on ebay now. Stupid aftermarket crap. I’m not sure I fully understand how to adjust the float properly, that’s probably not helping.

Welp I spoke too soon. Bike isn’t wanting to run right. Gas started pouring out of fuel bowl so i assumed float must be stuck. I took the tank off to get to carb and low and behold it has a damn aftermarket carb on it. Ugh I’ll probably never be able to get it to run right again now. I took it apart and cleaned it out real well. I noticed the float didn’t have any spring to it, while holding the carb upside down the float would go all the way up and hit on the roof of carb chamber (not sure of exact terminology here). I bent the float base so it has some spring to it and checked fuel/air mixture screw (2.5 turns). I put it back together and it now will only idle and bogs down/ sputters and backfires under throttle, but atleast not dumping gas out bowl. Should I try to track down an oem carb? That’s about the extent of my carb knowledge unfortunately.

Ha, well nothing at the moment, I just like to have all info for my machines for when I do need it. I just picked this quad up and want to familiarize myself with it. I’m probably going to service it so I have a fresh starting point with it.

It appears that the Service Manual thread at top of forum is dead as all the links no longer work. I'm actually looking for service manual for a 2000 KVF300 Prairie that I just picked up. Does anybody have link to one that they can share, or know where I can find one? Thanks in advance for any help.

Noticed the right rear axle was bent the other day as well to go along with the long list of issues It has had. Plus it was still hit or miss if it was going to run day to day. I decided to cut my loses and I traded it off for a 00’ Kawasaki Prairie 2wd. I’ll be posting in the Kawasaki forum I’m sure. Thanks for all the help guys.

Relay was the culprit. I’ve been through 2 relays on this bike. The one that was on it when I bought it had issue with the fuse holder part having to wiggle it for it to keep power. I bought a new one and it apparently decided to not work at all. I took both apart and used the fuse holder top part of the dead one and the bottom part of the one that was shorting out. It currently starts and runs and the starter switch works as it’s supposed to. I’ll take it for a ride tomorrow and see what happens. I noticed while I was sitting on it with it idling and shifting in and out of gear, I tried putting it in 4wd and it didn’t want to stay locked in 4wd. Not really concerned about that right now, but just something else to worry about later on.

Welp starter replaced and still nothing. All I get is a clicking sound from the relay when I hit the start button. Any thoughts?

Phew that’s good to hear. I went ahead and took the starter switch apart and cleaned all the internals the other night since I can’t do anything else with it currently. Stay tuned.

Yep, all it did was create a spark at the ground wire on the starter casing. I already ordered a new one. I went with a $30 aftermarket one vs $280 oem one; hope it works ok. It won’t be here until Wednesday though so in holding pattern for the time being.

Yeah Jacob it literally welded the battery cable connectors to the battery posts. I had to take a flathead screwdriver and pry them off once I had removed the hold down bolts. I hooked battery back up to check it and still have power surprisingly. Indicator lights come on atleast. The gear on the starter spins freely, so I guess it just burnt up internally somehow.

I unhooked the relay and hooked it back up again as I was thinking the same thing. I can hit the starter button and I can hear the relay click, but starter doesn’t even try to do anything. I went ahead and pulled the starter off the bike. Is there anyway to bench test it? And here I was getting ready to order a thermostat and a new speedo cable. Guess I’m buying a starter first. I feel like lighting this damn thing on fire and rolling it off a cliff at the moment.

Welp my wonderful luck with this bike continues. Got home from work and was going to go for a ride. Hit the start button and the starter made an awful grinding noise and started smoking real bad. The battery cables got instantly super hot, so I unhooked the battery. I guess the starter crapped out?

great info Frank. I was looking at the starter switch to see how it even comes apart and I noticed it's of course missing 2 of the screws that hold it on, so it's been apart before I'd say. I'll start with taking it apart to clean. Heck I've cleaned every other thing on this bike, so may as well clean inside of that switch too.

I've been using this site: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts Can search by year/model, then break it down per diagram. I've ordered the majority of the parts for my bike rebuild and have received all of them next day.

just an update - I jumped the 2 wires on the fan relay switch like you suggested Frank and fan came right on, so I'm going to assume all is well there. I also set the fuel/air mixture screw to 2-1/4 turns per factory spec and put the plastics back on the bike. I started it and let it idle a few times and it is idling fine; I just haven't had a chance to actually take it for a ride. Hopefully it's good to go now as far as running. I'll go ahead and replace the thermostat in the near future as well. 1 other issue I've noticed all along but haven't mentioned and had put to the bottom of the list of issues....... the starter switch control button on the left handle; I've noticed that when the bike is running, if I flip the switch to the X position to kill the engine that it does not work. Apparently the switch is bad?? The starter relay solenoid was one of the very first things I replaced on the bike when I first bought it, so I know it's not that. I tired unplugging the harness that plugs into the top of relay solenoid with the bike running as I saw suggested in another thread and it doesn't kill the engine either. Thoughts?? I probably won't mess with this right now as I've already spent enough $$ on the dang thing for the time being, but definitely want to research and fix it in the near future.