Bruce Sawyer

I've found that my local NAPA auto parts store has several of the different types ATV starter replacement brushes at very reasonable price but when I know it's the starter I need to check I take it apart and inspect it's internal condition CONDITION so as to see if I need brushes or a replacement starter but you can return brushes to Napa for a refund it the package is not opened.

My 1988 Big Bear 4x4 has the green lite and comes on when the key switch is turned on IF THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL and it will NOT electrically crank with the green light off UNLESS the hand brake lever is full depressed. (it will then electrically crank and start while in gear) I've never seen the green light flash on/off, it's either on or off.

Some of the ATV carbs have a bowl drain screw in the bottom or lower side of the carb bowl. When My Yamaha Big Bear starts not running correctly I can removed the carb bowl drain screw with the petcock turned off and drain the bowl while the engine is COLD and then turn on the petcock and let some gas flush the bowl, turn off the petcock re-install the bowl drain and good to go.

I changed the oil to the correct type. ATV 4 cycle motorcycle 10/40 from Napa. The Big Bear has been operating ok now with no clutch jerking. I seen this you tube video for a Yamaha Big Bear about how to inspect/change out the clutches that will be very helpful to anyone going into the clutch area. The SERVICE manual will be good to use in addition to this video. You may have to C/P this link into internet explorer for viewing? https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=How+to+replace+the+clutches+on+a+Yamaha+Big+Bear%2c+video&docid=608041014883389422&mid=F1B989DC120398A44A80F1B989DC120398A44A80&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT

Original poster: Forest Gump. I determined that I had been using the wrong oil in this ATV Yamaha machine for quite some time. I should have been using a 10-40 ATV cycle oil for wet clutches. I was using regular automotive oil. Automotive oil is slicker and will cause the secondary clutches (also termed transfer clutches) to slip. ajmboy: If I were you I would change the oil to make sure it's the proper type and if that don't correct the issue you are probably going to have to checked you transfer clutches (secondary clutches) to see if they are burned and need replaced. I'm not getting email notices in my mailbox even though I'm subbed????

1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once. Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms. I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ?? This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward. Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates? I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage. Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????