Savage3

Ok gents, I'm working so go easy on me. This is a problem as I mentioned earlier. Sorry, I lost focus. Those terminals SHOULD NOT have voltage across them unless you are pushing the starter button. Now, we still have other issues I believe. Looks like we will have to test the switches as well. Can you take a picture of the small terminals on the solenoid? Thanks

I'm not sure if this will be of any help or not fella's

I agree with Mech. Its pointing toward switch or wiring issues. I misunderstood, I thought the starter continued to spin when the engine shut off. Sorry bud, my bad.

There is the problem sir! Take solenoid off the vehicle, bench test. When power is applied, you should have continuity between terminals. When no power is supplied, you should not have continuity. In short, either solenoid is welded or you have constant power in that circuit. First step, bench test solenoid. I have to go to work Boss. If this doesn't make sense, search you tube for bench testing a solenoid. I'll check back later.

Yes sir, Sometimes, the wires go through the neutral switch or other safety switches after pushing start button. We may have to narrow it down. In my humble opinion, it would be a good idea to start with checking power at the solenoid. Current should only be at the (hot) or "S" terminal on the solenoid while pushing the starter button. Once the engine is running and you are no longer pushing start button, there should be no power on that circuit. If there is power while engine is running, then we simply work backward through any safety switches to the starter switch. It appears, either the contacts in the solenoid are getting stuck or one of the switches has a direct short.

Check for battery power at S terminal on solenoid while engine is running. There should only be power when pushing start button. If there is power, either switch is bad or solenoid is bad. Let us know results and we can move to next test.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185463997787 Not much time, cheap replacement CDI in case ya need it. Check either side of circuit as previously mentioned before purchasing part. Many times it's a bad ground, not CDI itself. This is just in case ya need it. Verify that it is correct part! Description states it fits 96-99 Big Bear 350

Sounds like you may have a few issues. I suspect the circuit with the headlight may have a short causing a parasitic draw, hence causing battery issues. The headlight circuit is also on the same circuit as the starter button going to the solenoid in some instances. Turn on DVOM, put selector on DC voltage. Take the black lead of multimeter and put it on negative terminal. Place the red lead on hot wire coming from ignition switch to solenoid. Turn key on Pust start button Give us the DC voltage reading.

Unhook black wire from coil. Then try to start it, check for spark. I'm assuming you don't have other issues. Usually, this will work when you only have one spark. In short, it's a ground issue.

There should be a wire that goes from coil to kill switch. Unplug that wire from coil and you should have spark. I've seen this before......I don't have time to look at diagram now, but I fixed the one spark problem before....

Ignition Coil On the 250/300, the ignition coil is attached to the upper frame behind the right-hand side panel. To access the coil, the seat and right-hand side panel must be removed (see Section 8). On the 400 ACT/TRV, the ignition coil is on top of the engine. To access the coil, the seat and gas tank (see Section 4) must be removed.On the 400 FIS/TBX/500/650 H1/650 V-Twin, the ignition coil is on the left-side frame above the engine. To access the coil, the left-side panel (see Section 2) must be removed. VOLTAGE (Primary Side) NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON position; the emergency stop switch must be in the RUN position. Also, the white/blue wire must be disconnected from the coil. 1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the white/blue wire; then connect the black tester lead to ground. 3. The meter must show 31V ± 20%. 4. With the tester leads connected, depress the starter button. 5. The meter must show 130V ± 20%. NOTE: If the voltage is not as specified in one or both of the above tests, inspect the main wiring harness, connectors, source/charge coil, magneto rotor and magnets, magneto rotor key, or the CD unit

White/blue wire is primary. Resistance on primary is .5 ohms according to wiring diagram.

Section 5.pdf Hopefully this helps, of not we can provide input where needed sir

See notes in your service manual listed directly below where you extracted your test procedures. Mech mentioned this in a previous post and it's important. PEAK VOLTAGE (500/650 H1/650 V-Twin) NOTE: All of the peak voltage tests should be made using the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter (p/n 0644-191) with Peak Voltage Reading Adapter (p/n 0644-307). If any other type of tester is used, read- ings may vary due to internal circuitry. NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for these tests.

Sounds good Boss, thanks for the update....

One other thing I forgot to mention. 12.0V on the pink "power in" wire means you either...... have a lot of resistance between the battery and CDI or ... you have a battery with less then 50 percent charge or ...... your meter/ reading is inaccurate. You should see around 12.6V or at least close to battery voltage. I would take a close look at that situation. Tell us what the meter reads when connected to battery while cranking. You should see no less then 9.6V

Ok, so, in this post your only showing 12V DC on pink wire. Good news! The pulse coil is what you referred to as crank position sensor with 186 ohms. Good news! However, I'd like to know the VOLTAGE from those same wires. Resistance testing is often not accurate or all inclusive. In addition, the crank sensor is positioned so there is an air gap, usually around .010-.014. First check voltage, if voltage is good, gap should also be ok. Your looking for something in the area of .02-.05, I seen them as high as .07vac on a regular cheap meter. Also, look closely at ALL grounds. As Mech mentioned, rational thought tells us that if it ran prior to starter replacement, it should spark after replacement. Trace your steps thoroughly. That being said, it could be coincidence that another component failed since starter replacement. Possible, but not probable.

I wouldn't purchase any parts until we have found the problem. Some pictures of CDI and wiring would be great when you have time.

Tested for voltage only one that gave reading with key on and when cranking was the pink wire, showed 23.8 vac and 11.3 vdc with key on and also when cranking. I agree with Mech, coil readings seem incorrect for most Chinese atv's. I'm also a bit confused by the DC and AC on same wire. CDI is fed AC. Also, when you disconnected "safety switch" which wire did you disconnect? What color and where did you disconnect the wire from? What pin location in connector? Sorry Boss, it's a bit confusing trying to diagnose no spark online...lol The CDI will provide inaccurate readings as will the trigger on a TRMS meter because the frequency is too fast. Should use a digital volt adapter. You should be seeing about .02-.04 volts on trigger signal when cranking. I've seen them go as high as .07.

What was the reading on the trigger coil? Voltage while cranking? Did I miss this reading? See if you can find specs in service manual. I have to warn you oftentimes, the specs are sketchy on Chinese models. However, we can see if it is in the ball park. Sorry for repeated questions, having internet issues.

Did you use a digital volt adapter when measuring CDI? Is this a a/c or d/c CDI? How many pins are on the CDI? Appears to be 5 based on readings. What was the reading on the trigger coils? Resistance? Then voltage while cranking?

Did you use a digital volt adapter when measuring CDI?

Do you own a multimeter and digital volt adapter? Try disconnecting kill switch first. Then check for spark. Next, start troubleshooting by checking pulse/trigger coil, CDI, and coil. Let us know the results....

GW and Mech's posts are critically important. Example: The aftermarket harness could have same wire colors, but, be wired differently. If you had spark prior to harness replacement, then the problem is most likely within the harness connections. Ya can't cheat it or assume anything. Trace your steps backwards. Use the manual for testing each component in the ignition system.