Savage3

1.5 sounds a little high, usually see less then a volt, but, check manual or possibly the meter is off a little. Use about .010 feeler guage for air gap, a business card will usually work. Disconnect CDI, test for continuity between ground pin or pins (sometimes two ground pins) and all the other pins. There should be NO continuity. The wire from pick up should be going directly to CDI. Is the CDI a/c or d/c ?

What is the uf rating on capicitor? What were the results of your test with dvom? Sounds like you missed something when testing capacitor. 8 volts seems low. Remember, check wire going from cdi to coil. Just because it has continuity, does not mean it can carry full current.

I cant6say for sure without viewing specs, but, the pick up coil resistance appears a little high. Check the voltage and current on that as well. Also check the air gap on pick up.

Sounds like you have the wires connected backwards. Recheck the wiring diagram.

You can test the CDI for a short by using dvom to test between gound pin and the other pins. If there is continuity, the CDI is shorting to ground. Also, unhook the kill wire and then check for spark before buying new CDI.

Good deal!

Continue checking fuses sir, then make sure ground cable is not loose where it is mounted to the engine. Then start by checking power at solenoid, relays, and switches.

Try disconnecting kill wire from CDI and see if you have spark, helps identify short farther up the circuit. No spark requires a good understanding and plenty of circuit testing before buying parts.

Remember, as Tom specified, a regular dvom cannot detect insulation breakdown under high voltage. The test I recommended only identifies a short within CDI. Basically, if you have power at yellow and red and your coil has specified resistance (listed in manual) THE CDI is bad. In short, if components on either side of CDI are good and no spark, CDI is at fault.

Ok, so the G/W wire goes to primary side of coil. Answer to the original post is.....yes. Once again, I would check for continuity between the two ground pins and the other 4 pins to verify short in CDI before replacement.

Not sure Boss, the manual listed above clearly shows a CDI. No time to investigate...

I agree based on the information provided. It does not appear to be a CDI issue. More then likely trigger ir short.

5 volts from stator is way too low!

I built them for 12 years and they can be tested. The choice is yours, follow simple instructions and you will be fine.

The CDI can be tested for a short by checking continuity between the 2 ground pins (if it is a 6 prong) and the other pins. If you have continuity, the coil in CDI has a short. Also, check the trigger coil, both of you....

Check for reverse safety switch on your model in manual. Most likely short to ground, kills the spark.

Great news man! Glad ya got it!

Regulator is probably bad. I'd replace before it takes out the stator. First use multimeter and verify rectifier is bad and ensure it's not a short to ground. Rectifier should be pushing over 14 to the battery.

You need to determine whether it is a DC or AC CDI. Remember, simply because you lost spark does not necessarily mean the CDI is the problem. Could be low voltage, poor ground, bad trigger, bad kill switch...etc

You can test the CDI for a short by isolating from circuit. Then test for continuity between the ground wire and the other wires. If there is continuity, then the CDI has shorted. Is the CDI for a DC or AC? Are the others you used while testing, AC or DC? What was the reading when you tested the trigger coil? How much AC voltage?

Check ALL lights, make sure there are no issues. I'm a bit sceptical as well. The problem could also be in the ignition switch. (The switch is on same circuit) Sometimes, the ignition switch contacts get rusted and results in fluctuating voltage. Kawasaki's are not happy when the voltage/current is not perfect! However, since the regulator is testing perfect, I'm assuming the ignition switch is not causing issues. Therefore, it appears the issue is isolated to the wire shorting to ground.

I'm at work now sir....I'll get back to you. I believe it goes to the kill switch. If engine shuts off with wire disconnected, you may be ok ( may be a redundant ground for safety).....I'll take a peak at wiring diagram this evening.

I realize the schematic is 1988, I believe the 91 is the same. (Not positive, going off memory) If not, you will know immediately after viewing. It sounds based on your description, that one of the wires coming out of the regulator is shorting to ground. Possibly, the regulator itself has a bad diode as well. Difficult to diagnose without being able to test. I'm hoping these ideas will in some way direct you to the problem. Many times, if voltage is less then 14.5 at the battery with engine running at about half throttle, the rectifier is bad. Not 100 percent, could also be a wire short circuit in the mix.

https://pin.it/4Qc8r5b This diagram may be helpful sir.

When testing voltage at battery while running, is the regulator providing about 14.5 volts at 2000 rpms?....(approximate)