Savage3
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Everything posted by Savage3
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GW and Mech's posts are critically important. Example: The aftermarket harness could have same wire colors, but, be wired differently. If you had spark prior to harness replacement, then the problem is most likely within the harness connections. Ya can't cheat it or assume anything. Trace your steps backwards. Use the manual for testing each component in the ignition system.
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You can download manual from manualslib. Some models have a fixed pulse coil. Get the manual, it will take you through the troubleshooting process step by step.
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Ok, so ya need a service manual for specifications or Google air gap on Pulsar for your model. Set gap to specification, then check for spark. It should be about.020 inches or so, but, I'd use service manual specs. Let us know if there are more issues.
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The little gadget top right of photo. What clearance did you use?
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Did it have a pulse coil? You would have seen it when you changed the stator.
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Basically, CDI contains a capacitor. The capacitor receives signal from the pulsar, trigger, etc.....many names used for the little gadget. Then send signal to coil that works like a transformer to step up voltage going to spark plug. This is the short version, keeps it simple and gives a basic overview of the CDI
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From rectifier to battery is what they are referring to. 13 to 14.5 volts or so is normal. About a half volt from pick up etc....check out specifics in the service manual
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Yeah, they all seem to blend together. I know the feeling!
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There is the issue sir, I generally see about about a half volt AC or less when testing a trigger coil. If the CDI doesn't receive the proper signal at the proper time, it will generally cause ignition issues.
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Check that trigger coil Boss.....very important! Even if it's brand new.....
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Remember, as previously mentioned...there are two types of CDI. AC or DC......Very important when replacing or testing.
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How did you make out with CDI, coil, and trigger tests?
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I agree, definitely worth checking!👍
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This is a tough one Boss, you're getting spark, but, not enough or not at the right time. You have a gremlin somewhere in that ignition system. I'd methodically check each component and narrow it down through process of elimination. I keep a couple CDI'S and trigger coils on the shelf to save time. Ya never know, could be a problem none of us have seen. I've had them test good on a static resistance test and turned out to be bad.
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Do you have a spare CDI that ya can try? Maybe it's not releasing at the proper time? Can you test the input and output at cdi? Can you test the trigger coil as well?
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You're doing great man! We just need to keep trying, you know the deal! We all miss the simple problem now and then. I'm just trying to help through a process of elimination. 👍
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You're doing great man! We just need to keep trying, you know the deal! We all miss the simple problem now and then. I'm just trying to help through a process of elimination. 👍
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Let's start at the beginning. The original post states the machine is getting fuel, (by starting fluid at a minimum) spark, and compression. Operationally, the engine should start based on the facts provided. However, the machine needs spark at the proper time. Now, unless the owner missed something during his diagnosis, failed to provide information, or misdiagnosed something. The only alternative is spark at the incorrect time or spark not happening under compression.
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Check the woodruff key on the crankshaft, ensure it has not sheered.
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Well, if the spark plug is completely dry, that means fuel is not making it to cylinder. However, it should start with fluid injected directly into cylinder. (Go back and revisit fuel problem as well.) So, if spark is good, timing is off. Ya don't necessarily need a timing light, remove valve cover, put cylinder at top dead center and see if timing marks line up. You should be able to see marks on flywheel. Up top, inside valve cover, they usually have a mark on timing gear as well. Remember, TDC must be on compression stroke! It can be 180 degrees out as the other member mentioned. Very important!
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This assumes all other information provided is correct. Is there enough spark to fire under compression? Etc...
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Based on information provided, timing is off. Not sparking at the correct time. Go back and recheck.
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Small engine repair business work guarantee
Savage3 replied to RepairmanJake86's topic in General Talk - Anything Goes!
In my opinion, this is a simple question, yet requires a complicated solution. Obviously, you would like to provide a long warranty based on your quality work. However, in many cases, due to poor quality fuel and less then adequate parts, you may not be able to provide the guarantee you want. I would proceed with caution keeping profitability and sustainability in mind. -
Have you tried starting with kill switch unhooked from CDI?
