alexwv1863

This is the old carb I took off the Kawasaki I was working on. The connection where my finger is, with the clear end, is what was keeping mine from running. If I could get the connector to make connection with the piece on the carb, the neutral light would come on and crank, but if it wasn't making connection there, nothing would happen. No neutral light, nothing. I put a new carb on and it fired right up. I know for a fact that was my issue. Yours might be different, but if it looks like this carb, check the connection there. Sorry I took so long to get back

I'm not sure exactly but I know for a fact that it does affect the neutral light somehow. The reason I say this, is while trying to diagnose the old carb I had, the neutral light wouldn't come on unless the wire had good connection to the metal tip going into the carb. If the neutral light wasn't lit up, the bike wouldn't try to start at all. It was like it was completely dead. I did quite a bit of troubleshooting, and that connection was the main culprit. Bought an aftermarket carb and the bike cranked right up. So I know for a fact a carb like this has to have that wire connected.

Sorry I took so long. Here's some screenshots of the one I bought. I circled the area that I was talking about. If you can't see what I'm talking about, let me know and I'll go out and take photos of the old carb. I just forgot when I was outside and I wanted to get a reply to you.

I'm not sure how the carb is on that year, but check the bottom of it and see if there's electrical wires going to the bottom. I had a similar issue where the neutral light would come on and off and wouldn't start all of the time. That wire was my issue. I can take photos and may be better to explain if needed

It was on page 2 of the Yamaha ATV manuals. I have a '99 Big Bear as well and thought I had downloaded a manual.

I tore into the side and the flywheel has been updated to the fixed magnet. When I drained the oil, there was a lot of gas mixed in with it. At first, a couple of quarts or so of oil drained out, then nothing but gas mixed with oil. In total, I got just a little over a gallon of oil/gas out. The magneto and flywheel look fine. All of the gears are good upon visual inspection. Could the rings broke, or something? How could so much gas get into the oil?

I've been working on this 4 wheeler for a buddy of mine. I got it running yesterday and went to ride it around the yard on a test drive. Well, it backed out of the garage fine, but when I went to move forward, it wouldn't move at all. While giving it throttle, the bike would lurch forward as if I had the brake on holding it back. Then it died died on me and wouldn't crank. That sounded like the starter was bound up. It's a new starter that I put on not long ago. It's an aftermarket. Also, when I would rev the engine up trying to get it to move, it sounded like it didn't have much, if any, power. It just wasn't revving right. Anybody have any thoughts as to what could be my problem now? The guy doesn't know what was done to the 4 wheeler by a family member. So anything could be wrong with it. Also, it rolls just fine when I had to push it back in the building. I couldn't hear any clanking or rattling in the rear end.

I finally fixed the carb issue. Put a letter jet in as suggested. Also, had to find a cap that fit the vacuum port. It wouldn't idle unless that port had zero air getting into it. I ran into a whole other issue that I'm going to make a thread on. It's got me a little scared lol

It's been crazy for the last month but here what I've found out and problems. I replaced some jets from a new carb into the old carb. The new carb would just not run right. It would idle very high and would not adjust right now matter what I tried. So I replaced a couple of the jets that were missing in the old carb and put it back on the bike. It ran for maybe 30 seconds then shut off. I bypassed the vacuum in the carb and put a regular petcock on because the gasket in the back of the petcock was worn out and I figured it wasn't working right. The guy who owns the bike wanted to go with a regular petcock as well. So I taped off the vacuum port on the carb. I also put on a new solenoid because I thought it went bad. Turns out the brushes in the starter were completely gone. I just put on a new starter and it starts and idles really good. ... Now here's where I'm having another issue. It won't take throttle. As soon as I try to give it gas, it dies. It'll start right back up though. So, what could be causing it not to take throttle???

I have the manual already but so far it hasn't been much help with the issues I'm having. I replaced the petcock with a basic petcock and blocked off the vacuum port on the carb. I also replaced missing jets in the original carb and put it back on. I took apart the original petcock and the gasket in the back felt very soft like it was worn out, so I thought maybe that was one of the issues with fuel not flowing through like it should (why the ATV wouldn't idle). Then I replaced the solenoid as well because I couldn't get the ATV to turn over at all. The solenoid started clicking. Now, with everything I said I did above, the ATV won't turn over at all. Battery is fully charged. My next check will be taking the starter off. I may have burned it up trying to crank it so much. I'm not sure. Hopefully I'll be back working on it tomorrow.

I'm currently working on an 04 Suzuki Eiger 400 and ran into some issues. Main issue being it's really hard to start. Once I get it started, it runs bad. Sounds like it's missing, which I'm pretty sure is an idle issue. It's not my 4 wheeler. I'm working on it for a buddy. Someone started working on the original carb and 2 jets were missing when I got it to work on. So, I ordered a new carb. To get it to run, I had to adjust the throttle screw on the handle bar almost all of the way out. Even doing that, it still sounds like it's bogging down and missing. I did put a gas filter on it, which I'm questioning whether or not that's the issue and it's not getting enough gas like it should. The petcock only has an On, Reserve, and Prime option. It also has 2 ports. I guess I have the hoses hooked up right. There's no way to shut the gas off completely, and also it looks like there's no gas getting thru unless I run it on Prime. Reserve drips gas. I'm going to take it apart today and clean it. I'm also going to take the jets I need out of the new carb and put in the old one. I don't know what all this person did you the 4 wheeler before I got it. There's odds and ends missing that I've noticed so far. What else can I try or look for? What could be the gas issue with the carb and petcock? The carb was completely off the bike except hanging onto the throttle cable. The diagram I found for the carb doesn't help me with hose placements. Any help, or questions would be appreciated. I can attach photos if it would be of help.

I can't remember if I check the output shaft or not. I've had the rest end off twice. I'm pretty sure I checked it the first time. The only other things I know to do is take the cover off the transmission gears on the side of the engine. It's probably called something else. It also won't go into gear using the gear shift selector. With this bike, I wouldn't think it would have to be running before you could shift into high or low.

Yes, we pushed the bike into the workshop. I don't know if I twisted on the drive shaft after the rear end was off, or what. I've been working on the bike off and on for a few weeks now, so I can't remember exactly if I did something and just don't remember. I do know that the diff I put on turns when not attached to the drive shaft. I've taken it off twice now because the first time I tried putting it on, there's a spring that goes from the pinion gear to the inside of the drive shaft, well I smashed that sucker all up. I took the rear end back off and put another spring in there. I first thought maybe that was the problem and with the first one smashed, it bound it up or didn't provide the right spring to allow with shifting gears. It might sound silly, but I was just trying to troubleshoot.

I believe the Kawasaki is either an '03 or '04. Green automatic with shifter on the right side. Rear differential was bad, so I replaced it with another. The 4 wheeler rolled in neutral when I parked it in the shop to work on. Took old diff off and replaced it with another one. The diff I put on, turned before I put it on the bike. Once I put it on the bike, the rear end wouldn't move at all. It's like it's stuck in gear. Bike is still in neutral. I've tried rocking the bike while trying to put it in high, won't budge. Can anyone tell me of something to check or try? I haven't opened up the transmission case yet to see what's going on. What should I be looking for?

This may be silly but have you checked all fuses, and battery? Just a thought. I'm having a similar issue with an Arctic Cat. When you find the issue, please let us know what it was. It may help somebody else out.

I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500. Basic, not an Alterra. I have the manual that has the 500/550/700 already. Just thought there was one manual only for a 500 that I hadn't found yet.

I'm looking for a repair manual that's specifically for a 2016 Arctic Cat 500. I have looked in the downloads section and there's one but it's for 500,700 & 1000 models. When looking through it, things I'm trying to find to fix on my 500 is not specific for just that model, and it's geared more towards the 700 model. So, needless to say, it really isn't helping me. I really hope someone out there has one. Thanks.

That's what got me. I think it was like that last Fall but I was busy doing other things and forgot about it. There's quite a bit of oil down on my skid plate and the oil is a little low. I haven't really ran it much this Winter. I'll clean it good and see what happens. It just concerns me because it's my #1 go-to and the newest one I own. Thanks for your input.

I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500 and recently noticed some oil leaking on the engine block to the right of the oil filter. It's near two metal lines going in and out of the engine block. I think one of the lines is called an engine oil line. I have a photo I'm going to try and attach. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start tearing into the engine if I don't have to. I think maybe a gasket or something blew around one of these lines. The ATV runs fine otherwise. Doesn't overheat or anything.

Hey everyone, first I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas to all who celebrate. Now onto my new problem. My apologies now for a long post. I just want to go thru everything I've done to help figure out what the issue is. Here goes: I have an 04 Yamaha Kodiak 450. Last week I went to take it for a ride and it wouldn't start. The display would light up and the speedometer numbers would go around in a circle like it was loading (to give an idea of what it looks like). When I would try to start it, it wouldn't do anything and the display would go blank. I tried crossing over the solenoid and it still wouldn't do anything, nothing at all. Today I was writing in it and hooked up a charger/jump box to see if that battery was dead. The charger read that it was completely charged. I tried cranking it and after a few tries and reconnecting the charger, I got the 4 wheeler to start. I unhooked the charger and a minute later the 4 wheeler just shut off like I turned the switch off. I, again, hooked up the charger, waited a couple minutes and the ATV started again. This time I left the charger hooked up several minutes while the ATV was running. When I unhooked the charger this time, it stayed running and I was actually able to ride it around the yard for several minutes without any issues. I parked it, shut it off with the kill switch like I always do, turned the key off. I thought I would see if it would start on it's own. I turned the switch on, kill switch off, and nothing. The display wouldn't light up nor turn over. When I would turn the kill switch on, the display would then light up, but once I turned the switch off, the display would go blank. I took off the start button ignition assembly off the handlebar and all of the connections looked new, so it should be making a great connection to the handlebar. I originally had a new solenoid on, but I put the original back on, cleaned all of the terminals, tried crossing it over with nothing happening still. I put on a new starter a couple of weeks ago and there hadn't been any issues until a couple weeks ago when I tried taking it for a ride like originally stating. Could the kill switch have gone bad and is causing this issue? Could it be some chance be the starter since it's not an OEM? Could it be the rectifier going bad? Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated. I would love to get it fixed soon. I have some other maintenance I want to do on it and have it road ready in case I need it if weather were to get bad. Thanks in advance. I do appreciate all of y'all's help and advice.

It sounds worse when I give it throttle but it just started when I put the new starter on. It's weird and it's bugging me. It really didn't sound as loud today but it did seem to get a little worse the longer I ran it. I'm debating on whether it not to take it off and take it apart, or just send it back. I don't know what to do. I'll have to send it back tomorrow if I do. What would y'all do?

It doesn't sound as loud today as it was the other day. I haven't ran it any for the past few days. I've tried to upload a video I just took but it's not letting me.

It ran fine before the old starter went out. I ran it maybe 2 or 3 days before on a ride and didn't have issues. I went to crank it up after that too move it to do a little work on it and it would crank. I put this new starter in and it cranked over great, idles great and even runs great except for the whining noise it now does. The bike hasn't been left sitting for more than 2 weeks at a time since I got it running this past Spring. I have ran it numerous times between them and now without an issue until the starter.